Problem with Dynatech Headers and Spark Plug wires...
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Problem with Dynatech Headers and Spark Plug wires... I have Dynatech LT Headers on my LT1 SS Camaro. I have been going through all kinds of crap to find the souce of my "P0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire" engine code. Found out today that there were 2 problems, both of which I should have caught.
1: the IDIOT who put the spark plugs in this before I got it, did not tighten them right...ALL 8 were finger loose and causing problems............retards...
2: The boot on my #5 spark plug is touching the header and melting through causing it to ground out...it is too long. I know there are heat shields out there and shorter boots, etc etc etc. Does anyone have any experience with this and have a solution that WORKED before I go experimenting??? I appreciate it!
1: the IDIOT who put the spark plugs in this before I got it, did not tighten them right...ALL 8 were finger loose and causing problems............retards...
2: The boot on my #5 spark plug is touching the header and melting through causing it to ground out...it is too long. I know there are heat shields out there and shorter boots, etc etc etc. Does anyone have any experience with this and have a solution that WORKED before I go experimenting??? I appreciate it!
saw pics and read where they said if you're running headers on 4th gen's, clamp the wires on top of the valve covers, but with all you have, you might already have them ran that way. Let me know what you end up doing, trying to get some dynatech lt's right now. I live about 10mins from Dynatech/Afco, maybe i can get a deal.
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I would love to do that....were it that easy...however it is not the wires themselves that are burning out....it is the actual BOOT that snaps onto the spark plug...I cant re-direct that at all because my header bends downward so fast on that cylinder that it makes contact with the end of that boot no matter what I do...I think I need to get either a custom short boot on that one cylinder OR get some sort of heat shielding to cover it and stop that contact...I saw some shielding on JEGS but I dont know how well it will hold up...
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From: San Antonio, TX
I know some of the stock wires have metal boot heat shields on them. I don't remember off hand which it is, but if those are no longer close to the primary...maybe move the shield off that boot to the one that is touching the primary? I haven't tried this but might be an easy cheap (possibly free) fix. Just an idea.
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The stock sheilds will cause more problems than they solve.
Getting an airgap between the boot and primary is the best thing you can do.
One set of headers I had were designed for tyhe straight plug iron heads and when I tried to use them on the aluminum heads one plug actually touched the primary with no gaskets mockup. A 36oz. ballpien, a stock thin boot plug wire, a thick gasket and taking a little off the screwon tip of the plug got me adequate clearance and it never burned.
On the sparkplug I unscrewed the tip and took the material off the inner end of that tim to preserve the top that the wire locks onto.
Getting an airgap between the boot and primary is the best thing you can do.
One set of headers I had were designed for tyhe straight plug iron heads and when I tried to use them on the aluminum heads one plug actually touched the primary with no gaskets mockup. A 36oz. ballpien, a stock thin boot plug wire, a thick gasket and taking a little off the screwon tip of the plug got me adequate clearance and it never burned.
On the sparkplug I unscrewed the tip and took the material off the inner end of that tim to preserve the top that the wire locks onto.
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From: San Antonio, TX
Not trying to highjack, but for my own education...what types of problems would using the stock shield cause? I figured if the shield is still touching the primary it wouldn't fix anything since it would just conduct the heat to the boot in a more efficient manner. What other problems would it cause?
OK, I have the FLP longtubes (aka, DYNA-TECH) on my 96 WS6 LT1. I use the custom 9mm ELITE wires with the heat jacket and 90 degree boot. I have absolutely no problem with burning wires or boots. I use the "MADE 4 U" loom holders that sit down by the primary tubes. All of the plug wires are run nice and neat to the plug locations. This setup has performed flawlessly for at least 5 years ! 
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ok...where do I get ELITE Spark Plug Wires??? I am getting tired of this problem. I have tried heat shielding the hell out of them, and using a heat shield with a spring inside to create an air-gap....nothing doing. I am looking at some Taylor SP Wires, and I wanna check out these ELITE wires, but I cant seem to find them...anyone know where they are?
Actually you can use any 'standard' 90 degree boot. By that I mean a 'simple' boot, not one like MSD, or Taylor, etc...
I just got done putting FLPs (Dynatechs) on my new 383, I used a Summit plug wire kit and DEI fiberglass heatshielding boots and number 5 and 6 are damn near identical with how close they come to the primaries, but I got both to clear...
I also run NGK TR6 plugs, and run a Delteq with the module/coils mounted to the radiator fan shroud with the wires running underneath, aka stock routing. I personally don't care for the OTVC plug wire routing.
One thing you need to make sure is that the boot is pressed all teh way onto the spark plug and that it seats fully. If it is fully seated you really shouldn't have much of a problem with ANY plug boot (ok, maybe the ceramic Jacobs boots wouldn't fit, but they are 4x the size of any others).
I just got done putting FLPs (Dynatechs) on my new 383, I used a Summit plug wire kit and DEI fiberglass heatshielding boots and number 5 and 6 are damn near identical with how close they come to the primaries, but I got both to clear...
I also run NGK TR6 plugs, and run a Delteq with the module/coils mounted to the radiator fan shroud with the wires running underneath, aka stock routing. I personally don't care for the OTVC plug wire routing.
One thing you need to make sure is that the boot is pressed all teh way onto the spark plug and that it seats fully. If it is fully seated you really shouldn't have much of a problem with ANY plug boot (ok, maybe the ceramic Jacobs boots wouldn't fit, but they are 4x the size of any others).
