slick1851

I would stop with the yellow now, your getting way to far into it and its going to look very over done if you keep going with it.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Kudos to yeah man... thats rough at what happened but on the bright side once your done with it she will look like showroom again if not better. Keep up the good work and post more pics of your progress!

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Looking good!! Shouldnt you have installed the bar b4 the carpet???

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

The stuff I used is a durable commercial grade adhesive padding used to deflect rock chips on trailors, RV's and trucks.. Can't believe I found it on eBay.

LMAO! Too late.. The ONLY exterior yellow that you will see is the RIMS. Nothing else. Once you open up the interior, you will notice yellow "accents" on the doors, seats and of course, the roll bar.

Much thanks! I've been working on it today and got some progress pics!

(side note).. I DID install the roll bar first.. LMAO! It was a nightmare trying to work the carpet around that thing.. So, I took it out and decided to do some "reverse engineering".. LOL

First things first this morning.. I installed my 4 AWG distribution block as an access point, for my "grounding" needs. It will be out of view, under the drivers seat.




Next, I installed the headliner and sun visors..




Also installed the sail panels, dome light and seat belts..




Finally, I "re-installed" the roll bar.. As it sits in there right now, it's "loose and unbolted" in there at the moment..

killagt

iTrader: (3)

where do u get your headliner and sunvisor from ? thanks

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

I had my factory ones reupholstered at a place in Fort Worth, Texas called Teocals.

killagt

iTrader: (3)

how much did they charger ? they even do sunvisor too ? thanks

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

It was kind of a package deal.. I had my headliner, sunvisors, door panel inserts and both front seats all reupsholstered for $725 I believe.

bdsbirdman

looks great. threads like this give me hope that i might have an interior again one day. keep up the good work

RSbeast

I really can't wait to see this thing all done. Looks SO awesome sp far man. I need to do the fatmat trick on my daily. Where did you get the sound deadning foam stuff at?

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!!! I didn't get anything done today (or pretty much anything else done, til Saturday). Saturday is my next day off from work. (pout)


That foam stuff, I purchased here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000290826

(Synthetic Carpet Fiber Carpet Padding ~ NOT THE FOAM PADDING)

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

OK.. I got another day off today (but it's my wife's birthday). I probably won't get much accomplished today but I did find a few BEFORE and AFTER shots that I found interesting..





_______________________






_______________________

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

Oooops, I forgot one of my BEFORE and AFTER pictures..

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Is the bar MS or moly? This thing is going to be a rolling tank weight wise. I like the fact you cut out the rear seat brackets. Those things are a pain in the *** to remove with all of the factory spot welds.

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the compliment! I went with the MS roll bar.. I did take the time to weigh it before installation. It weighed 78 pounds. I remember one of the guys telling me that the same moly bar for my car weighs about 65 pounds. So, I saved several hundreds of dollars for roughly 15 pounds. LMAO, I've lost 15 pounds since I've gotten back on my training / diet schedule.. hehe. In addition to removing the rear seat mounts and rear seats, I also removed my t-top trunk mounts, spare tire and factory jack.. So that helps off-set some of the extra weight. I would venture to say that I have only added at most, maybe 75 pounds of "extra weight" to the entire car. Very acceptable for a restored street car. Although the car will be an "aggressive street car" it will most definitely NOT be race car or gutted out daily driver.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

wow man talk about being indepth! your going all out on this thing! i think it looks great keep it up!

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.. I was just admiring your build thread! Wow! I like how you are showing the damaged parts and the new "replacement" parts. Very cool! As for me, I didn't add too much to my setup but I did keep a "tally" of the parts that I have purchased:

Edge Racing 4L60E 3000RPM Converter (w/ anti-ballooning plate) - $565

New windows (minus the rear window) $438

Custom Upholstered Dash - $400

Moroso Cold Air Intake System - $180

New GM MAF $228

BBK 52mm Throttle Body 1994-97 LT1 - $305

PowerForce+Plus harmonic race damper LT1- $175

MSD LT1 Pro Billet Optispark Distributor - $289

GM Performance Parts LT4 Hot Cam Hydraulic Roller Cam - $150

MAC Headers w/ Y Pipe (ceramic coated by Performance Coating Specialties) - $675

SLP Loudmouth I Exhaust - $490

Random Technology RACE High-Flow Catalytic Converter - $259

Comp Cams Magnum 1.6:1 Roller Rockers - $190

Comp Cams LT1 Hydraulic Roller Lifters - $190

SLP Line Lock kit - $140

Wolfe Racecraft Full 6-point roll bar - $625 + $200 custom powder coated

Cold Fusion 200HP Wet Nitrous Kit, 20 lbs bottle, warmer, progressive controller, misc parts - $1,485

Racetronix Fuel Pump Performance Bundle - $230

UMI Performance 3-Point Subframe Connectors - $300

UMI Performance Engine/Strut Bay Brace - $95

Corvette ZR1 Rims (2) 17x9.5" + (2) 17x11" custom powder coated - $1,400

Sumitomo Tires (2) 275 40ZR 17's + (2) 315 35ZR 17's - $675

TransGo 4L60E Shift Kit - $130

Beefed up rebuilt 4L60E - $1700

MSD 8.5mm Black Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires - $110

Vortech Aluminum Intake Elbow custom powder coated - $125

BMI Custom Powder Coated Aluminum Radiator Shroud - $200

LT1 Block .030 over, TRW forged pistons + powder coating - $ Ughhhhh

(4) new slotted / cross drilled rotors and brake pads - $509

(4) brake calipers and front spindles + powder coating - $270

(2) door handles + powder coating - $60

(2) new rear hatch shocks - $68

Misc fel-pro gaskets - $ Can't remember

New interior carpet - $200

Fatmat (200 sq ft) $200

6LE front air splitter - $284

Rear Axle Bump Stops - $78

Replacement Rear Sway Bars - $26

Used (like new) center console - $150

Used (like new) misc interior panels - $200

Both front seats, headliner, sunvisors and door panels upholstered - $725

Roll bar mountable speaker dual speaker pods + powder coating - $225

Used T/A rear hatch, T/A front / rear bumper cover, side skirts, hood - $750

Paint and body work - $5500

Pavlock Perf. tinted rear tail lights, blinker lights and 3rd brake light - $275

KeeAudio double din bezel - $125 (give or take a few $$)

Cleaned / Dipped gas tank and radiator - $170

New window motors and new head light motors - $280

Used upper dash pad - $85

*** I'm sure there is more that I forgot to write down but you can get an idea about my general restoration costs so far.. Kind of depressing when I look at this list.. lmao!

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

I purchased a speaker box and it REALLY sounded awesome. It's only (2) 10" Toby woofers but you seriously have to hear it, to believe it. I thought I would be able to "squeeze" them into the empty rear seating area but it was a no go. Sooooo, I will see what I can do. The wife wasn't happy at all that I dropped almost $600 on this Toby speaker box.

I dropped it into place on top of the flat portion of the trunk. I temporarily installed my drivers seat and saw that the top portion of the speaker box is about 1 - 2 inches higher than my rear spoiler (when looking through my rear view mirror). This is NOT where I had planned on placing the box.. This is gonna set me back a bit as it would force me to "re-design" the back seat area. For now, I'm not gonna worry about it and will move on to completing the interior install.. On a really cool note, for those of us who have roll bars in our cars, I found a company on eBay who makes speaker pods that are light weight aluminum (intended for marine use). They mount on a wake board bar on a boat. However, I noticed that the diameter of mount was the exact diameter of the tubing on my roll bar.. WOOHOO! I can basically mount speakers ANYWHERE in my car around my roll bar. I purchased two pods and each pod will hold (2) 6.5" speakers.. so that's (4) 6.5" speakers. I sent the pods to TOP KOAT Powdercoating and had em matched to my roll bar.. Here they are (polished aluminum ~ uncoated) :








After powder coating:




If I can line these pods up pretty much behind my ears (centered on the backside of my head), I will have the perfect left / right audio seperation (stereo) sound that I want. It also means that I won't have to buy high power amplifiers just to hear my music. I KNOW my car will be LOUD. Headers, SLP Loudmouth 1 exhaust, 5" exhaust tips.. Ughhhhhh, yep, it's gonna be LOUD. So, this makes a great way to hear my music OVER my car without cranking the heck out of my volume on my car stereo.

Oh, here is the speaker box.. I went down to a local high end speaker company, the Toby Speaker Company (on Montgomery St. here in Fort Worth, Texas) and spoke with them on custom building me a "modded" box setup based on their Ranger Bandpass designed box. You can't even see the two little 10" woofers but the sound is absolutely phenominal..

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

question, what kind of coating is that on the roof inside the ttop area? You know what i am talking about? the part of the roof you cant see when the tops are on? It looks sick

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

It's basically a commercial grade rock chip deflector type material.. I will PM you the link (non sponsor).