Help please.
i have a 1997 z28, and it's misfiring.
it runs and drives great, the only time while driving that i can feel the misfire is when i'm at low rpm in 5-6th gear as it vibrates a little. other than that it drives fine.I know I've got a problem with my IAC valve cause the car idles at 1.5k and is throwing a code for it, so that's in need of replacing... idk if that would cause the misfire, but that's just a bonus to the problem. As far as the misfire goes i'm throwing P0300, i replaced my plugs with NGK tr55's, and replaced my spark plug wires with factory replacement wires, and the misfire's still there. none of my wires are touching anything, and nothing is arching off anything either. the thing that's really throwing me for a loop is this: when i start the motor cold, there's no misfire for at least 2-5 mins, then once it gets a little warm it starts to misfire. i can hear a popping sound through the exhaust and once the engine's warm it keeps missing, even after killed then started again.
i was going to replace the coil next, and if that doesn't fix it i was going to replace the ICM and so on with the optispark, but before i spend any more money on this thing, i want some input.
what the hell's going on? haha.
i'm clueless.
as far as the scanner to view the movement, what do you mean?
an OBDII scanner?
as far as the OBDII scanner goes i've gotten it scanned, and the codes it's throwing are
P0300-multiple cylinder misfire.
p0400-EGR malfunction
P1657-IAC valve Bad.
as far as the old plugs went they looked pretty worn out, and black.
what's this mean?
after the plug and wire replacement the car seems to run better, but still has the miss after warm up.
hmmm.
could i unplug them and short them out, so the computer thinks they're reading right?
i'm completely lost, and i'm really fed up with trying to fix this car. haha.
i do have a cut-out after the cat, could this cause anything?
as far as the scanner to view the movement, what do you mean?
an OBDII scanner?
as far as the OBDII scanner goes i've gotten it scanned, and the codes it's throwing are
P0300-multiple cylinder misfire.
p0400-EGR malfunction
P1657-IAC valve Bad.
as far as the old plugs went they looked pretty worn out, and black.
what's this mean?
after the plug and wire replacement the car seems to run better, but still has the miss after warm up.
hmmm.
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as far as the o2's go, i have all stock exhaust except for a cutout right under the reat seats, would this cause anything extra? the cutout seems to be putting out alot of black ****, not smoke, just **** on the bottom of the car, is this normal exhaust **** or what?
i was thinking of cutting out the cat though, how would i go about doing so with the o2 sensors reading that it was lean?
i have a 1997 z28, and it's misfiring.
it runs and drives great, the only time while driving that i can feel the misfire is when i'm at low rpm in 5-6th gear as it vibrates a little. other than that it drives fine.I know I've got a problem with my IAC valve cause the car idles at 1.5k and is throwing a code for it, so that's in need of replacing... idk if that would cause the misfire, but that's just a bonus to the problem. As far as the misfire goes i'm throwing P0300, i replaced my plugs with NGK tr55's, and replaced my spark plug wires with factory replacement wires, and the misfire's still there. none of my wires are touching anything, and nothing is arching off anything either. the thing that's really throwing me for a loop is this: when i start the motor cold, there's no misfire for at least 2-5 mins, then once it gets a little warm it starts to misfire. i can hear a popping sound through the exhaust and once the engine's warm it keeps missing, even after killed then started again.
i was going to replace the coil next, and if that doesn't fix it i was going to replace the ICM and so on with the optispark, but before i spend any more money on this thing, i want some input.
what the hell's going on? haha.
i'm clueless.
A coil is cheap, if it's got some decent mileage, might as well throw a new one on.
If you have a code for the EGR valve, I would remove it and clean it thoroughly and put it back on.
Like someone else mentioned, it sounds like you have an open loop/closed loop issue. That would make me suspect the MAF or the o2's. I would replace the o2's and clean the MAF.
Another thing to consider is cold/hot issue. I would perform the ICM cooling mod at the same time as you replace your o2's and see if your symptoms disappear.
If you have a code for the EGR valve, I would remove it and clean it thoroughly and put it back on.
Like someone else mentioned, it sounds like you have an open loop/closed loop issue. That would make me suspect the MAF or the o2's. I would replace the o2's and clean the MAF.
Another thing to consider is cold/hot issue. I would perform the ICM cooling mod at the same time as you replace your o2's and see if your symptoms disappear.
as far as the o2's go they have suspected 148k on them, which is probably my problem, but which one's should i replace, there are four. two before the cat, and two after the cat, should i replace them all or just the two after the cat? they're 50-80 bucks a pop.
and regarding the MAF, it's brand new. i just replaced it last week, so that can't be the problem.
and last but not least, how do i go about removing and cleaning the EGR valve?
and as far as driving goes, the car does drive rough at low speeds around town, but a WOT it drives fine.
again, which o2's should i change out, all of the four, or the ones after the cat?
how do i go about deleting the codes in the computer and if not that, where can i get an o2 simulator for 1997 z28?
As far as monitoring them goes, you need a scanner that can read real time data. Once in closed loop, the o2's should be oscillating between 0-900mV consistently.
With 50k on the coil, and taking into account that they are only like 30 bucks or whatever, I'd replace it.
You can tune out your codes (emissions codes and other unnecessary codes) with a mail order tune from MadTuner.com. It's also beneficial to gain some horsepower and make your car run better.
can for movements of the millivolts for the o2's
and as far as driving goes, the car does drive rough at low speeds around town, but a WOT it drives fine.
again, which o2's should i change out, all of the four, or the ones after the cat?
Like I said, Please read the post of info, it at low speeds it runs rough and at WOT its fine then is is most definetly your two "FRONT" O2's, Change the front ones, replace the plugs and you should be done...



