Valve Spring install HELP!!!!
05-06-2009, 05:18 PM
#21
The stock and shouldered seat shown are not to be used if the spring is stock diameter you can use a l-98 spring seat (from alum headed vettes ) or buy the propper seat. the inner spring should not touch the seat except on the bottom.
As said in the 2nd post a hardened steel shim (looks like a big washer) wil lwork as well, and as said the installed height needs to be checked and shimmed to propper height.
If you assemble it the way you have it now you will have 16 bent pushrods.
As said in the 2nd post a hardened steel shim (looks like a big washer) wil lwork as well, and as said the installed height needs to be checked and shimmed to propper height.
If you assemble it the way you have it now you will have 16 bent pushrods.
05-06-2009, 05:55 PM
#25
Chevrolet V-8 92-99 350 cu. in. LT1 ------------------------------PN 10308-1
(w/Aluminum cylinder heads)
Valve Spring PN 99893-16 Steel Retainer PN 99951-16
Lock PN 99097-1 Shim PN 99050-1
The installed height using this kit on LT1 engines with factory aluminum heads should be
set between 1.875” and 1.850”. Make sure all valve springs are assembled at the same
height. The springs will provide sufficient pressure when installed within this range. The
hardened shims are used to replace the factory lower spring seats. Make sure there is
clearance between the rocker arm and the retainer throughout the rocker arm travel.
Clearance should be a minimum of .020”.
Well i guess it would ahve helped to look at the instructions. it says it replaces them
(w/Aluminum cylinder heads)
Valve Spring PN 99893-16 Steel Retainer PN 99951-16
Lock PN 99097-1 Shim PN 99050-1
The installed height using this kit on LT1 engines with factory aluminum heads should be
set between 1.875” and 1.850”. Make sure all valve springs are assembled at the same
height. The springs will provide sufficient pressure when installed within this range. The
hardened shims are used to replace the factory lower spring seats. Make sure there is
clearance between the rocker arm and the retainer throughout the rocker arm travel.
Clearance should be a minimum of .020”.
Well i guess it would ahve helped to look at the instructions. it says it replaces them
05-06-2009, 05:57 PM
#26
Chevrolet V-8 92-99 350 cu. in. LT1 ------------------------------PN 10308-1
(w/Aluminum cylinder heads)
Valve Spring PN 99893-16 Steel Retainer PN 99951-16
Lock PN 99097-1 Shim PN 99050-1
The installed height using this kit on LT1 engines with factory aluminum heads should be
set between 1.875” and 1.850”. Make sure all valve springs are assembled at the same
height. The springs will provide sufficient pressure when installed within this range. The
hardened shims are used to replace the factory lower spring seats. Make sure there is
clearance between the rocker arm and the retainer throughout the rocker arm travel.
Clearance should be a minimum of .020”.
Well i guess it would ahve helped to look at the instructions. it says it replaces them
(w/Aluminum cylinder heads)
Valve Spring PN 99893-16 Steel Retainer PN 99951-16
Lock PN 99097-1 Shim PN 99050-1
The installed height using this kit on LT1 engines with factory aluminum heads should be
set between 1.875” and 1.850”. Make sure all valve springs are assembled at the same
height. The springs will provide sufficient pressure when installed within this range. The
hardened shims are used to replace the factory lower spring seats. Make sure there is
clearance between the rocker arm and the retainer throughout the rocker arm travel.
Clearance should be a minimum of .020”.
Well i guess it would ahve helped to look at the instructions. it says it replaces them
05-06-2009, 06:15 PM
#27
I appreciate that you would look for them for me.
And ya I'm just glad i did some research on it and found out that i didnt need to change them out for another style and go through all that trouble for nothing. Hopefully i dont run in to any other problems down the line.
Also what tool did you find was the easiest to compress the new dual springs?
And ya I'm just glad i did some research on it and found out that i didnt need to change them out for another style and go through all that trouble for nothing. Hopefully i dont run in to any other problems down the line.
Also what tool did you find was the easiest to compress the new dual springs?
05-06-2009, 06:27 PM
#28
I appreciate that you would look for them for me.
And ya I'm just glad i did some research on it and found out that i didnt need to change them out for another style and go through all that trouble for nothing. Hopefully i dont run in to any other problems down the line.
Also what tool did you find was the easiest to compress the new dual springs?
And ya I'm just glad i did some research on it and found out that i didnt need to change them out for another style and go through all that trouble for nothing. Hopefully i dont run in to any other problems down the line.
Also what tool did you find was the easiest to compress the new dual springs?
Worked fine. But the best tool to use is the one I just bought, the Crane Spring Compressor Tool:
http://store.jandjspeedshop.com/images/Crane99472.jpg
05-06-2009, 10:31 PM
#29
well i went a bought the lever tool to compress the spring. Ends up that tool only works with the heads on the car with the piston at top dead center. So i went and bought the KD style spring compressor and got all the old ones off. Like shbox says it doesnt really work to well with the dual springs but it only allowed the inner spring to fall down on me twice. So i got them all on on one head so i guess i will start fresh tomorrow.
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
05-07-2009, 11:35 AM
#30
well i went a bought the lever tool to compress the spring. Ends up that tool only works with the heads on the car with the piston at top dead center. So i went and bought the KD style spring compressor and got all the old ones off. Like shbox says it doesnt really work to well with the dual springs but it only allowed the inner spring to fall down on me twice. So i got them all on on one head so i guess i will start fresh tomorrow.
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
05-07-2009, 03:55 PM
#32
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Glad you sorted it out, I like the crane tool that allows you to do a whole cylender at a time, I dont have the number of it handy but it is sold by Summit.
05-07-2009, 04:04 PM
#34
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05-08-2009, 08:51 AM
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well i went a bought the lever tool to compress the spring. Ends up that tool only works with the heads on the car with the piston at top dead center. So i went and bought the KD style spring compressor and got all the old ones off. Like shbox says it doesnt really work to well with the dual springs but it only allowed the inner spring to fall down on me twice. So i got them all on on one head so i guess i will start fresh tomorrow.
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
Now when i place the new ARP rocker studs on do they need thread lock applied to them? If so what kind; the blue one or the red one??
My ARP 7202s call for a 55# when using ARP's moly-lube and 70# when using 30W oil instead on ARP lube.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!