Well it is identical to what im running now plus a couple extra cubes and the added saftey at higher RPMs.

My car was Dyno tuned at Speedinc and has 0 knock real or false and put out 413.66 rwhp b4 the TDs, on pump gas and thats with a s60 out back, on the stock short block. It trapped 120 so far.
Im not at all worried about the CR. The only thing that worries me at all, is piston to valve clearance but LE says we should have no probs since the pistons are .010+ in the hole. Well they actually measured between .010-.015 with an average of .012 in the hole.
From everthing Ive ever read says LT1s love higher compression( one of the benifits of reverse cooling) and Ive heard of more than a few guys runnin 12.5:1 and even more on pump gas safely.

 

Oh yeah if you think I should be worried, there a few gas stations near by that sell 100oct. race gas. So I could just run that to be safe

 

I'm pretty sure ARP recommends a line bore if you are changing from bolts to studs, I don't know if I would just swap them out.

 

I could use new ARP bolts then. Anyone else have suggestions on this area? Or an idea of what it would cost to have the block converted to splayed or GM 4bolt and reassembled?

 

^ Honestly, I wouldn't even worry about it. There's no need to spend extra money on this if you aren't trying to push every ounce out of it. Save the money for the engine you are looking to build in the future.

 

Ill just throw in some ARP main bolts then, anyone have the part number?

 

It did?

 

yep first time out, well actually 119.44 spinning the 275/50 MT Drs like crazy, oh and that was only leaving at 4k (stock clutch) vid is in the sig vvvvv

 

Actually, on a LT1 you can use studs without a line hone. The issues is much more prevalent in stuff like SBFords where the webbing is weak, or old-school blocks where the machining from the factory jus isn't what it is now-a-days.

I have done plenty of LT1s as mild to moderate performance buildups where it didn't need 4-bolt mains and if the mains all check out (ie it doesn't need a line hone due to a 'problem') I have run ARP main studs... Including my new 383 buildup. It has main studs added with no line hone and all the journals spec'd out perfect.

It is really a matter of knowing what you are doing and making sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. The only thing studs do is provide a more consistent and stronger clamping force on the caps. Since you are not twisting the threads in while applying force (the way it works when tightening a bolt, ie it is a shearing action on a course thread), it provides for better clamping (since you are tightening a finer, shallower-angled thread on the nut only while leaving the twisting action out of the equation).

Hell, anyone like ARP would be stupid to NOT say it is a good suggestion to do a line hone if you are changing hardware. That way if it fails and a line hone wasn't done, they can't take blame. At the same time if a line hone IS done you can be certain that everything is inline and consistent.

Don't forget, newer blocks are WAYYYY more consistent in regards to machining tolerances than old-school blocks. Late-model blocks have the benefit of much more recent technology to aid in providing a better overall factory piece. Old school blocks can be soo far off it isn't even funny. All of those 'inconsistencies' just don't *usually* apply to LT1 blocks.

Again, put ARP, or another high-strength stud in it. If you don't and you have a bottom-end issue you'll only be kicking yourself. It is a cheap upgrade ($50-75 or so) for the insurance.

Hell, if you want I have a box full of extras in the garage from having done so many with windage trays that I didn't use. I think I even have enough ARP washers and nuts to put together a complete stud set. If your interested, send me a PM and let me know and I'll let all 7 studs/washers/nuts needed go cheap (you would still need to buy the 3 Moroso studs to install the windage tray).

 

badass

 

I def want studs over bolts, if it can be done, and I would be pissed to spin a main because I didnt do a simple upgrade.
So Ill need 3 moroso bolts for the windage tray, and ARPs for the rest?

 

Yep. And you don't need to use Lock-tite to put the studs in, just put them in hand tight, loosen them 1/4 turn and install the caps, torque with ARP moly-lube on the threads and faces of the washers and nuts to the ARP spec for the ARP studs and 60 ft/lbs for the Moroso. I can lookup the ARP spec when I get back later today.

 

Sweet!!! Thanks for all the info!!!
I will do this as soon as Im back from the shootout, cash is tight untill then.

 

Just found out the motor has Pink rods? I thought they were the stronger, but aparrently not?

 

I personally would not run a 'pink rod' over 550hp... A PM rod I have no issue taking to 650 or slightly more.

I have personally see PM rods deform at around 700-750 or so hp. I have seen pink rods break at 650.

 

HMMM... If I take it apart for a 4bolt maybe ill replace the rods too, with some forged Scat rods. Just thinking out loud. Any probs doing that?

 

Nope, would be a wise choice. You will also have the have the rotating assembly rebalanced as well tho...

 

Ill look into it for sure. Got bigger probs now.....Cars dead !

 

RWHP or Flywheel

 

We only talk RWHP around here!