performance MAFs?
06-23-2009, 10:52 AM
#6
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easy enough i kinda figured that much. im just trying to figure out some decent bolt ons im tryin to keep it mostly bolt on stuff on the formula and just like everyone else looking for the most bang for my buck
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06-23-2009, 04:21 PM
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X2
plus ditch your EGR and AIR while your at it...Doesn't necessarily add performance, but it stops addind bad air into your manifold, and cleans up the engine bay slightly so its a little easier to work on.
Also if your going to add headers, get ahold of 99BlancoSS and get a OTVC SP Wire kit. It is a good price, and avoids burning wires on headers...not to mention it looks amazing! lol
Maybe even invest in an airfoil...cheap and helps get rid of the dead air in your throttle body.
Underdrive pulley could be good too, but alot of people have mixed feelings about those.
plus ditch your EGR and AIR while your at it...Doesn't necessarily add performance, but it stops addind bad air into your manifold, and cleans up the engine bay slightly so its a little easier to work on.
Also if your going to add headers, get ahold of 99BlancoSS and get a OTVC SP Wire kit. It is a good price, and avoids burning wires on headers...not to mention it looks amazing! lol
Maybe even invest in an airfoil...cheap and helps get rid of the dead air in your throttle body.
Underdrive pulley could be good too, but alot of people have mixed feelings about those.
06-24-2009, 10:04 PM
#10
I am sure this has been discussed one million times, but have pity. With the WS6 the CAI is covered right?
With these mods what would an M6 WS6 run at the track? Will my 10 bolt survive?
What other things would be needed (besides drive train upgrades) to go head/cam?
With these mods what would an M6 WS6 run at the track? Will my 10 bolt survive?
What other things would be needed (besides drive train upgrades) to go head/cam?
06-25-2009, 05:40 AM
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I am still running a stock 10 bolt with my set-up right now. I am a 97 LT1 SS Camaro M6.
Track times are hard to say. Too many variables and a huge part depends on the driver's ability...trust me, I learned this. My set-up ran a 15.2 at sea level a couple times due to my inexperience...once I get better I was running a 13.6...Now I am probably faster than that even. A good driver should be running mid to low 13's with headers/CAI/Cat-Back/tune...add in heads and cam and you should hit the low 13's to high 12's...Suspension/body upgrades are a must as well to help with traction. Clutch will need to be upgraded, but tranny/driveshaft/rear end SHOULD be ok...I still run the stock tranny/driveshaft/rear end and no problems yet (knocks on wood).
If you upgrade the heads/cam, it MAY interest you to get a 52 or 58mm Throttle Body... you can install a 52mm without porting the intake manifold...but if you want a 58mm, you need to port the manifold to match.
If you do a head/cam swap I would suggest upgrading your lifters and pushrods and maybe even your rockers to accomodate a higher rev limit since the cam and heads give you more top-end power. Its not a necessity, but could help you avoid future headaches.
If you do heads/cam no matter what, you will need another tune...for this I suggest using madtuner. He has a good service and good price. If you tune it to the headers/CAI then add heads/cam later, you will have to send your computer back in for a re-tune which is not as expensive as a full tune.
Anyone else feel free to chime in if I missed something or am mistaken
Track times are hard to say. Too many variables and a huge part depends on the driver's ability...trust me, I learned this. My set-up ran a 15.2 at sea level a couple times due to my inexperience...once I get better I was running a 13.6...Now I am probably faster than that even. A good driver should be running mid to low 13's with headers/CAI/Cat-Back/tune...add in heads and cam and you should hit the low 13's to high 12's...Suspension/body upgrades are a must as well to help with traction. Clutch will need to be upgraded, but tranny/driveshaft/rear end SHOULD be ok...I still run the stock tranny/driveshaft/rear end and no problems yet (knocks on wood).
If you upgrade the heads/cam, it MAY interest you to get a 52 or 58mm Throttle Body... you can install a 52mm without porting the intake manifold...but if you want a 58mm, you need to port the manifold to match.
If you do a head/cam swap I would suggest upgrading your lifters and pushrods and maybe even your rockers to accomodate a higher rev limit since the cam and heads give you more top-end power. Its not a necessity, but could help you avoid future headaches.
If you do heads/cam no matter what, you will need another tune...for this I suggest using madtuner. He has a good service and good price. If you tune it to the headers/CAI then add heads/cam later, you will have to send your computer back in for a re-tune which is not as expensive as a full tune.
Anyone else feel free to chime in if I missed something or am mistaken
06-25-2009, 09:00 PM
#13
I am still running a stock 10 bolt with my set-up right now. I am a 97 LT1 SS Camaro M6.
Track times are hard to say. Too many variables and a huge part depends on the driver's ability...trust me, I learned this. My set-up ran a 15.2 at sea level a couple times due to my inexperience...once I get better I was running a 13.6...Now I am probably faster than that even. A good driver should be running mid to low 13's with headers/CAI/Cat-Back/tune...add in heads and cam and you should hit the low 13's to high 12's...Suspension/body upgrades are a must as well to help with traction. Clutch will need to be upgraded, but tranny/driveshaft/rear end SHOULD be ok...I still run the stock tranny/driveshaft/rear end and no problems yet (knocks on wood).
If you upgrade the heads/cam, it MAY interest you to get a 52 or 58mm Throttle Body... you can install a 52mm without porting the intake manifold...but if you want a 58mm, you need to port the manifold to match.
If you do a head/cam swap I would suggest upgrading your lifters and pushrods and maybe even your rockers to accomodate a higher rev limit since the cam and heads give you more top-end power. Its not a necessity, but could help you avoid future headaches.
If you do heads/cam no matter what, you will need another tune...for this I suggest using madtuner. He has a good service and good price. If you tune it to the headers/CAI then add heads/cam later, you will have to send your computer back in for a re-tune which is not as expensive as a full tune.
Anyone else feel free to chime in if I missed something or am mistaken
Track times are hard to say. Too many variables and a huge part depends on the driver's ability...trust me, I learned this. My set-up ran a 15.2 at sea level a couple times due to my inexperience...once I get better I was running a 13.6...Now I am probably faster than that even. A good driver should be running mid to low 13's with headers/CAI/Cat-Back/tune...add in heads and cam and you should hit the low 13's to high 12's...Suspension/body upgrades are a must as well to help with traction. Clutch will need to be upgraded, but tranny/driveshaft/rear end SHOULD be ok...I still run the stock tranny/driveshaft/rear end and no problems yet (knocks on wood).
If you upgrade the heads/cam, it MAY interest you to get a 52 or 58mm Throttle Body... you can install a 52mm without porting the intake manifold...but if you want a 58mm, you need to port the manifold to match.
If you do a head/cam swap I would suggest upgrading your lifters and pushrods and maybe even your rockers to accomodate a higher rev limit since the cam and heads give you more top-end power. Its not a necessity, but could help you avoid future headaches.
If you do heads/cam no matter what, you will need another tune...for this I suggest using madtuner. He has a good service and good price. If you tune it to the headers/CAI then add heads/cam later, you will have to send your computer back in for a re-tune which is not as expensive as a full tune.
Anyone else feel free to chime in if I missed something or am mistaken
06-26-2009, 10:58 AM
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Madtuner, Madtuner, Madtuner....the best of the best on this site use him. It costs 150 for a full performance tune, and if you ever need to change anything later, like if you add a new mod, its only 50 bucks to re-tune
