Arizona Speed Headers
06-26-2009, 10:05 AM
#1
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Arizona Speed Headers Does anybody on here run these headers? I was just wondering how they fit? Plug wire clearence...etc.
And before anybody starts bashing about just get long tubes, I have a friend that may just give them to me.
And before anybody starts bashing about just get long tubes, I have a friend that may just give them to me.
06-26-2009, 10:31 AM
#3
I had the RK sports which were nearly identical.
They have minor firment issues like every other header. The driver side #1 primary comes very close to the steering shaft. The problem of it hitting is hit and miss.
Spark plug access is the worst I have ever seen. It is impossible to change the front passenger side one without pulling the header.
Bolt access on the passenger side is a MF due to the dipstick on the #6 primary.
Top end power is close to LT's, but they dont make good low and mid range power compared to LT's. When I took the mids off and put the LT's on, it was like a had 2 more cylinders down low and in the mid range.
This graph shows the difference between mid-tubes and LT's:
Knowing what I know now, I would not use mid-tubes, even if they are free, unless I had a lowered car and LT's were out of the question. Or if emmisions are a big concern.
They have minor firment issues like every other header. The driver side #1 primary comes very close to the steering shaft. The problem of it hitting is hit and miss.
Spark plug access is the worst I have ever seen. It is impossible to change the front passenger side one without pulling the header.
Bolt access on the passenger side is a MF due to the dipstick on the #6 primary.
Top end power is close to LT's, but they dont make good low and mid range power compared to LT's. When I took the mids off and put the LT's on, it was like a had 2 more cylinders down low and in the mid range.
This graph shows the difference between mid-tubes and LT's:
Knowing what I know now, I would not use mid-tubes, even if they are free, unless I had a lowered car and LT's were out of the question. Or if emmisions are a big concern.
06-26-2009, 11:03 AM
#4
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Had them and loved them for over 5 years. I never had a problem changing plugs on the car, but I have small hands. Now I have LTs and do not see a difference in changing the plugs. Power wise, LTs are slightly better, but nothing to brag about. Don't remember the exact numbers but similar to the graph above, just not as extreme.
Free is free, I would take them.
Free is free, I would take them.
06-26-2009, 01:32 PM
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[QUOTE=wrd1972;11818232]I had the RK sports which were nearly identical.
They have minor firment issues like every other header. The driver side #1 primary comes very close to the steering shaft. The problem of it hitting is hit and miss.
Spark plug access is the worst I have ever seen. It is impossible to change the front passenger side one without pulling the header.
Bolt access on the passenger side is a MF due to the dipstick on the #6 primary.
Top end power is close to LT's, but they dont make good low and mid range power compared to LT's. When I took the mids off and put the LT's on, it was like a had 2 more cylinders down low and in the mid range.
This graph shows the difference between mid-tubes and LT's:
Knowing what I know now, I would not use mid-tubes, even if they are free, unless I had a lowered car and LT's were out of the question. Or if emmisions are a big concern.[/QUOT
Great response. Truth is in the numbers. You now have LPP long tubes?
They have minor firment issues like every other header. The driver side #1 primary comes very close to the steering shaft. The problem of it hitting is hit and miss.
Spark plug access is the worst I have ever seen. It is impossible to change the front passenger side one without pulling the header.
Bolt access on the passenger side is a MF due to the dipstick on the #6 primary.
Top end power is close to LT's, but they dont make good low and mid range power compared to LT's. When I took the mids off and put the LT's on, it was like a had 2 more cylinders down low and in the mid range.
This graph shows the difference between mid-tubes and LT's:
Knowing what I know now, I would not use mid-tubes, even if they are free, unless I had a lowered car and LT's were out of the question. Or if emmisions are a big concern.[/QUOT
Great response. Truth is in the numbers. You now have LPP long tubes?
06-26-2009, 01:50 PM
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Each has their shortcomings...SP Wire clearance can be fixed by OTVC SP Wires, but it will still be a MF to change plugs either way you go. Shorties and Mids help you retain ground clearance, LT's you lose almost 2 inches of GC...mids dont produce as much low end power as the LT, but its not a HUGE difference. You also don't have to worry about the headers banging on the floorboard if you get mids...LT's you do. Most headers will hit the steering column which is slightly annoying, but eventually you get used to it, and its no big deal...you can play with the SC a little bit too to try and alleviate that some.
If you are getting them free, take them.....worse comes to worse if you dont like them you can always sell them, make some bank, and buy something more to your liking...never turn down free shtuff lmao.
If you are getting them free, take them.....worse comes to worse if you dont like them you can always sell them, make some bank, and buy something more to your liking...never turn down free shtuff lmao.
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06-26-2009, 02:26 PM
#10
that's because of the shorter primary length....Technically the shorter primaries work better with more RPM. So if you want to spin to 10K RPM go with a short tube header, if you want it to pull down low go with LT's.....if you're stuck in the middle...go with mids. LT's do work better with street cars and with drag cars because a lot of time is spent under the peak power point of the engine (under the curve).
06-26-2009, 02:40 PM
#11
that's because of the shorter primary length....Technically the shorter primaries work better with more RPM. So if you want to spin to 10K RPM go with a short tube header, if you want it to pull down low go with LT's.....if you're stuck in the middle...go with mids. LT's do work better with street cars and with drag cars because a lot of time is spent under the peak power point of the engine (under the curve).
