More Porting on Heads and/or Intake - Should I?
More Porting on Heads and/or Intake - Should I? I'm doing head gaskets and am contemplating at least getting the intake ported by AI or Lloyd Elliot, but I wanted to get your opinions on whether or not it would be worthwhile based on my mods. I don't plan to go beyond a 54MM TB so the intake porting would mostly be for enlarging the inlet areas and runners. As for the heads, they were lightly ported (not even flowbenched) and my engine builders said they are similar to lt4 heads, the intake was untouched I'm pretty sure.
I was planning on doing 1.6 rr but it seems they are more expensive than I thought, unless I am mistaken, can I just get the rockers, springs and studs, and reuse the caps and stuff, or do I have to get the whole spring kit and get new pushrods (I'm told that 94's are already hardened). I thought it was only a little over $350 in parts, depending on the type of rocker but it's looking like much more than that.
So what do you think, worth it or not?
I was planning on doing 1.6 rr but it seems they are more expensive than I thought, unless I am mistaken, can I just get the rockers, springs and studs, and reuse the caps and stuff, or do I have to get the whole spring kit and get new pushrods (I'm told that 94's are already hardened). I thought it was only a little over $350 in parts, depending on the type of rocker but it's looking like much more than that.
So what do you think, worth it or not?
I'm doing head gaskets and am contemplating at least getting the intake ported by AI or Lloyd Elliot, but I wanted to get your opinions on whether or not it would be worthwhile based on my mods. I don't plan to go beyond a 54MM TB so the intake porting would mostly be for enlarging the inlet areas and runners. As for the heads, they were lightly ported (not even flowbenched) and my engine builders said they are similar to lt4 heads, the intake was untouched I'm pretty sure.
I was planning on doing 1.6 rr but it seems they are more expensive than I thought, unless I am mistaken, can I just get the rockers, springs and studs, and reuse the caps and stuff, or do I have to get the whole spring kit and get new pushrods (I'm told that 94's are already hardened). I thought it was only a little over $350 in parts, depending on the type of rocker but it's looking like much more than that.
So what do you think, worth it or not?
I was planning on doing 1.6 rr but it seems they are more expensive than I thought, unless I am mistaken, can I just get the rockers, springs and studs, and reuse the caps and stuff, or do I have to get the whole spring kit and get new pushrods (I'm told that 94's are already hardened). I thought it was only a little over $350 in parts, depending on the type of rocker but it's looking like much more than that.
So what do you think, worth it or not?
Technically, all you need is rockers, pushrods, and springs. But I uaually recommend getting ARP rocker arm studs.
Rockers: ~$145 for Comp Magnum (roller tip) {OR ~$290 for Comp Pro Magnum (full roller rocker)}
Springs: You can get a set of LT4 springs for ~$50.
Pushrods: Trickflow chromemoly pushrods ~$87.
Studs: ARP rocker arm studs ~$38
Total Cost: $320.
Money well spent if you ask me.
If you're on the stock cam and not running crazy spring pressures the ARP studs aren't needed b/c you won't be flexing the 3/8 that much. Now is where you have to decide your future plans also, so you don't have to do it twice. If you want to just keep it a simple bolt on car or mild cam you can use NSA RR's, LT4 or similar springs, roller tip rockers, and the stock studs. But if you plan on doing a big cam in the future I'd just buy nice springs now why the heads are off (they'll be easier to put on) and reuse the stock rockers if thats all you can afford. Then later you can get nice full roller rockers, ARP studs, and run a NSA setup.
thanks guys.....if I don't need the whole spring kit (another $300 or so), then I will get the rockers.
Maybe if I can hold out a little longer and save then I can get the RR's plus port my intake, worth it then? Also, if I were to send it out, wouldn't they need my heads so they don't overport it?
Maybe if I can hold out a little longer and save then I can get the RR's plus port my intake, worth it then? Also, if I were to send it out, wouldn't they need my heads so they don't overport it?
I wouldn't waste the money on porting the intake, they will flow plenty good unless you have very good head work on your car and are making 400 + hp.
If you go with LT4 springs you can reuse the stock retainers/keepers and they "drop" right it. The only problem is the hot cam is about the max I'd run with those springs and even that is pushing it.
If you go with LT4 springs you can reuse the stock retainers/keepers and they "drop" right it. The only problem is the hot cam is about the max I'd run with those springs and even that is pushing it.
found some "Comp Cams Hi-Energy hardened pushrods, 7.200 (OEM Roller - Factory Length)" for $38.99 at thunder racing....too good to be true?
Oh and what are the benefits of a full roller rocker of a rocker tip?
Oh and what are the benefits of a full roller rocker of a rocker tip?
Last edited by Marc3.4V6; Jul 2, 2009 at 09:58 PM.
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That is a very good deal, but not necissary if you want to run a SA setup (just depends what type you buy). Still a good upgrade for higher spring pressures though.
Roller tip still uses the pivot ball for the rocker to pivot on where a full roller will have a trunion bearing that reduces friction and allows them to operate at higher rpms, less friction, and cooler.
As a general rule the pivot ***** start to fail above 6,300 rpm and thats about the max you want for a SA rocker too.
Roller tip still uses the pivot ball for the rocker to pivot on where a full roller will have a trunion bearing that reduces friction and allows them to operate at higher rpms, less friction, and cooler.
As a general rule the pivot ***** start to fail above 6,300 rpm and thats about the max you want for a SA rocker too.
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