'95 Z28 Car Problems
#1
'95 Z28 Car Problems
Hey everyone, Im new to Z28's but not Camaro's so I'm going to do my best to describe with all what it seems to be wrong with my car at the moment and please help me on this one.
I bought a 1995 Camaro Z28 last week and it was running fine when I test drove it. It passed state emissions and really had nothing wrong with it so I bought it. The previous owner did state that the car has a new LT1 motor, caps, distributor, plugs, wires, and also a fuel pump.
So in general I'm having really bad fuel efficiency and had to fill up three days in a row. (I do travel 20 mins both ways everyday but still?)
The first problem is the fuel gauge. It appears to be low on gas once the meter hits the "F" and has gas when it goes completely past the "F". The Check engine light comes on once the arrow hits full. The previous guy said it should have been fixed with the new fuel pump but wasn't. How much to fix this? Is it just the sending unit?
Also the coolant light is on even though it has coolant and doesn't appear to be leaking anything.
Also my car is having trouble with turning on. Once again once I test drove the car it was fine but now it seems to take several tries to start the car. I thought it could be the Optispark system but realize once it has fuel in it, it starts right up. I'm thinking it could be low fuel or something else?
The last problem is one the car is idle or just turning on, the RPMS stay around 1-2 and don't drop to 0 even when parked. THE RPMS will bounce a little when accelerating then it would go back to normal. I'm thinknig it needs a tune up but it just had one 3 months ago?
Also, I have very high oil pressure, its right below the 80 mark..
I know its a lot but anyone who can help thanks!
I bought a 1995 Camaro Z28 last week and it was running fine when I test drove it. It passed state emissions and really had nothing wrong with it so I bought it. The previous owner did state that the car has a new LT1 motor, caps, distributor, plugs, wires, and also a fuel pump.
So in general I'm having really bad fuel efficiency and had to fill up three days in a row. (I do travel 20 mins both ways everyday but still?)
The first problem is the fuel gauge. It appears to be low on gas once the meter hits the "F" and has gas when it goes completely past the "F". The Check engine light comes on once the arrow hits full. The previous guy said it should have been fixed with the new fuel pump but wasn't. How much to fix this? Is it just the sending unit?
Also the coolant light is on even though it has coolant and doesn't appear to be leaking anything.
Also my car is having trouble with turning on. Once again once I test drove the car it was fine but now it seems to take several tries to start the car. I thought it could be the Optispark system but realize once it has fuel in it, it starts right up. I'm thinking it could be low fuel or something else?
The last problem is one the car is idle or just turning on, the RPMS stay around 1-2 and don't drop to 0 even when parked. THE RPMS will bounce a little when accelerating then it would go back to normal. I'm thinknig it needs a tune up but it just had one 3 months ago?
Also, I have very high oil pressure, its right below the 80 mark..
I know its a lot but anyone who can help thanks!
Last edited by Speedy Z28; 07-07-2009 at 04:41 PM.
#2
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The fuel gauge is a common problem on our cars and the coolant light could mean you have some air bubbles in the line or another common problem the sensor. Its on the radiator and it gets dirty and the light will stay on
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as far as the hard to start problem it could be a number of things The ignition switch is going out or the Ignition control mod is going out or even the coil. you will have to do your homework there and track down the one
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Well with the hard start I would say its the fuel draining back into the tank. Try priming it acouple times before actually trying to start it see if it will crank like that. If the pump was just replaced maybe the fuel line on the puimp came loose and is making it loose fuel pressure causing bad idle and running.
Is the high oil pressure constant no matter what the engine is doing if so the sensor is either disconnected or went out. If it spikes as soon as you start it and stays there I would check connection on it.
Is the high oil pressure constant no matter what the engine is doing if so the sensor is either disconnected or went out. If it spikes as soon as you start it and stays there I would check connection on it.
#5
Well with the hard start I would say its the fuel draining back into the tank. Try priming it acouple times before actually trying to start it see if it will crank like that. If the pump was just replaced maybe the fuel line on the puimp came loose and is making it loose fuel pressure causing bad idle and running.
Is the high oil pressure constant no matter what the engine is doing if so the sensor is either disconnected or went out. If it spikes as soon as you start it and stays there I would check connection on it.
Is the high oil pressure constant no matter what the engine is doing if so the sensor is either disconnected or went out. If it spikes as soon as you start it and stays there I would check connection on it.
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Then check the sensor make sure its connected because if its disconnected it will cause that. Also if the sensor has failed completely it will do it. That should fix that problem.
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Coolant light? Do you mean the Low Coolant light? If so then this is very common and you have two options unplug it an don't worry, just check your coolant level every now and then or get a new one and replace it. Here is where it's located:
Right behind the filler neck (down a bit) next to the battery on the pass side of the vehicle: (Courtesy of ShBox)
As to the fuel, as stated the hard start could be related to the Fuel Pump and a bad check valve allowing the fuel to leak back into the tank. Get a fuel pressure guage and hook it up to the schraeder valve on the back of the fuel rail and manually check the pressure and see if it drops off immediately after you kill the car. It should hold pressure for several hours and bleed off slowly. Also, the normal PSI while running is 43.5 (I believe) so check that as well to make sure the pump is working properly. Let us know what you find and good luck.
Right behind the filler neck (down a bit) next to the battery on the pass side of the vehicle: (Courtesy of ShBox)
As to the fuel, as stated the hard start could be related to the Fuel Pump and a bad check valve allowing the fuel to leak back into the tank. Get a fuel pressure guage and hook it up to the schraeder valve on the back of the fuel rail and manually check the pressure and see if it drops off immediately after you kill the car. It should hold pressure for several hours and bleed off slowly. Also, the normal PSI while running is 43.5 (I believe) so check that as well to make sure the pump is working properly. Let us know what you find and good luck.