Connectingrod tightening torque question
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TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 430
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From: Bahrain
Connectingrod tightening torque question Whats the required tightening torque for an LT1 engine? ARP recommended 50 ft-lbs with its especial assymbly lube applied to the threads and nut face ! so i already tightened them to 50 ft-lbs, will i be fine with that? just wanted to make sure before i put the pan on.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 92
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From: Montville, NJ
You should probably put them through a few "torque" cycles as the bolt will stretch. Usually torquing down and loosening the bolts 2 to 3 times will get them to stretch to where they need to be. This does however need to be measured with a bolt stretch gague. Call ARP and get their procedure on this, as its VERY critical. If you just torque them down once and leave them, they will FAIL.
20 lb/ft plus an additional 55 degrees" is correct for a NEW factory bolt, as they are torque to yield bolts. Once you torque them down to spec, they are good, but cannot be reused.
Nick
20 lb/ft plus an additional 55 degrees" is correct for a NEW factory bolt, as they are torque to yield bolts. Once you torque them down to spec, they are good, but cannot be reused.
Nick
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 430
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From: Bahrain
You should probably put them through a few "torque" cycles as the bolt will stretch. Usually torquing down and loosening the bolts 2 to 3 times will get them to stretch to where they need to be. This does however need to be measured with a bolt stretch gague. Call ARP and get their procedure on this, as its VERY critical. If you just torque them down once and leave them, they will FAIL.
20 lb/ft plus an additional 55 degrees" is correct for a NEW factory bolt, as they are torque to yield bolts. Once you torque them down to spec, they are good, but cannot be reused.
Nick
20 lb/ft plus an additional 55 degrees" is correct for a NEW factory bolt, as they are torque to yield bolts. Once you torque them down to spec, they are good, but cannot be reused.
Nick
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Little Rock, AR
Just because the tightening recommendation uses the torque/angle method, does not necessarily mean the bolts are TTY. The t/a method is a more precise way of ensuring good clamping force. GM used the exact same rod bolts for 93-97 LT1s in the f-body. The earlier years used the straight torque value and later used the t/a method. That would seem to suggest that the bolts are not TTY.
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My question to the OP is what kind of bolts are you using? Stock or ARP's..?
I had Eagle Rods in my LT1 Build that had ARP Bolts, they required a specific sequence..as well as the ones in my Eagle Rods on my current LS build.
I had Eagle Rods in my LT1 Build that had ARP Bolts, they required a specific sequence..as well as the ones in my Eagle Rods on my current LS build.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
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From: Kempner, TX
My view is that when it comes to rod bolts - the most heavily stressed fastener in the engine - I don't get creative. I just follow the directions of the bolt manufacturer;
Whatever they say I do, but that's just me.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Whatever they say I do, but that's just me.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
