Best Spark Plug Replacement Method?
The second and more pressing issue is the erradic starting and random dying of the car. Im willing to bet my next paycheck that it has the stock plugs, wires, and opti on it.
So that being said, I am brand new to LT1s. What is the best way to go about replacing spark plugs, wires, and the opti. Ive heard time wise its anywhere from 6 hours to a whole weekend to do them all. Im hoping this is not the case.
The second and more pressing issue is the erradic starting and random dying of the car. Im willing to bet my next paycheck that it has the stock plugs, wires, and opti on it.
So that being said, I am brand new to LT1s. What is the best way to go about replacing spark plugs, wires, and the opti. Ive heard time wise its anywhere from 6 hours to a whole weekend to do them all. Im hoping this is not the case.
For your first time I would probably double that time. Take your time. It should never take a whole weekend. You need a nice swivel head socket. a 3" ext, a spark plug socket and determination, lol. Some plugs are easier to get to from the bottom, some are easier to get to from the top. You have to look at all the angles...
It's not fun, but not difficult.
I've done this a couple of times, and unless you have little, dainty, "girlie hands", changing plugs isn't easy on an LT1 in a Camaro or Firebird. Although it sounds really difficult, I pull the "Y" pipe up to the cat next to the tranny, and at that point all the plugs except for #2 practically change themselves, working from the bottom. Cylinder #2's is tucked in and around the A/C and power steering lines, and is a "work by feel" job. In my case, however, my car was never winter driven, and the first time I did the job, the car was only 5-6 years old, so none of the nuts and bolts were very rusty.
I've changed my plug wires twice in the 14 years I've had the car. The factory shop manual says to pull the power steering pump. The first time, I thought I knew better, and just loosened the pump, and struggled to get the wires through the wire loom that's behind the pump. The second time, I did remove the pump, and it made it a LOT easier. Use a "crowsfoot" tool on a 3/8 ratchet and long extension to take the pressure line off...IIRC it's either a 15 or 16 MM hex. You get the pump off the bracket by accessing the 2 10MM hex bolts through the two holes in the pump's pulley.
Good luck!
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. But I have done a plug/wire/coil/opti swap on a stock manifold, AC car many times. Its getting to know your car!!
Don't drop the Y-pipe. Odds are you are going to break a bolt...regardless of how much PB Blaster you use. Drop the starter instead. Makes most of the passenger side much easier...from my own personal experience (Twice now on a non-header setup).
I did them and it took a while, but the only thing that I would remove would be the dipstick tube. My arms had exhaust manifold part numbers embedded in them, but it wasn't terrible.
Opti takes me 1 hour to 1.5 again with heat and going inside. Its not too bad but the Air and other items do tend to get in the way so they should go in the trash.... lol
Coil and ICM should not take more than 10 min its just 2 plugs and 2 bolts to get the bracket with them off.
I found that for the tight plugs using a shorter Spark Plug socket I got at Autozone and my ratcheting 19mm makes life easy. I still have too do 2 from the bottom but I do not have to remove anything.
On the others I use my socket wrench and socket works fine.
I have to say though I have never done it on stock logs, I would refuse to lol.











