th350 trans
All you would really need is a different length driveshaft (unless you get a TH350 with a 9" tailshaft). You can re-use the stock flexplate if you get a converter made for the LT1 bolt circle pattern
Oh, you would also need a TH350 crossmember from BMR, UMI, etc. Or you can modify your stock crossmember by moving it so it lines up with the tranny, and you'll need a chassis mounted torque arm (since the TH350 has no provisions for the stock tranny mounted torque arm)
Oh, you would also need a TH350 crossmember from BMR, UMI, etc. Or you can modify your stock crossmember by moving it so it lines up with the tranny, and you'll need a chassis mounted torque arm (since the TH350 has no provisions for the stock tranny mounted torque arm)
Last edited by 1badzee; Jul 16, 2009 at 09:55 PM.
They're a bit different. The LT1 has a small circle base bolt pattern, and the GEN I have a large base. All I know is that it won't work. Also, the LT1 flexplate has a 153 teeth, while the GEN I SBC/BBC has 168
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On my swap, here is what I used:
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
- Th350 with a 9in tailshaft
- Chassis mount TQ Arm
- Stock driveshaft (had the yoke shortened by 1in for better fit)
- TH350 crossmember (umi, bmr, etc carry this; I run the UMI version)
- Used the TCI Flexplate I was using with the 60e
- I think I had to have my convertor resplined to fit the TH350, cant remember (did this over 2 years ago) Double check the input shaft spline numbers.
- B&M Ratchet shifter with cable kit
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
On my swap, here is what I used:
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
- Th350 with a 9in tailshaft
- Chassis mount TQ Arm
- Stock driveshaft (had the yoke shortened by 1in for better fit)
- TH350 crossmember (umi, bmr, etc carry this; I run the UMI version)
- Used the TCI Flexplate I was using with the 60e
- I think I had to have my convertor resplined to fit the TH350, cant remember (did this over 2 years ago) Double check the input shaft spline numbers.
- B&M Ratchet shifter with cable kit
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
Good info. My setup is similar:- TH350 with 6in tailshaft
- Custom length driveshaft
- BMR crossmember
- Jegster double adjustable torque arm
- B&M pro ratchet shifter + cable
- Had TSI (transmission specialties) build me a nitrous converter for a TH350 but to bolt up to a stock LT1 flexplate (153 teeth)
- B&M big trans cooler
As for the ears, I didn't cut them off. I don't think it's worth it because the transmission went in as quick as a stocker. But if you're feeling creative, go for it!
Good info. My setup is similar:- TH350 with 6in tailshaft
- Custom length driveshaft
- BMR crossmember
- Jegster double adjustable torque arm
- B&M pro ratchet shifter + cable
- Had TSI (transmission specialties) build me a nitrous converter for a TH350 but to bolt up to a stock LT1 flexplate (153 teeth)
- B&M big trans cooler
As for the ears, I didn't cut them off. I don't think it's worth it because the transmission went in as quick as a stocker. But if you're feeling creative, go for it!
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
Nice...did you put a manual valve body in yours? I love driving with a 3speed and convertor...feels like its always in the powerband (properly setup, it should).
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
most converters have dual bolt pattern. Just tell whoever builds your converter that you have small pattern, no big deal.
doesent fitzall or something make a kit?
I have a 350, and I would never want a t-brake on one.....a good converterwill leave harder anyway.
doesent fitzall or something make a kit?
I have a 350, and I would never want a t-brake on one.....a good converterwill leave harder anyway.
Some setups favor t-brakes and others don't.
Are you saying that anything w/ a TH350 had a 168?