Ok i am getting quotes for motors But i hear perform crate is just a better way to go. I found a motor on a site called percision rebuilt engines They want 1659+600 core charge but i found a Chevy 350 SS Crate Engine with 330 horsepower and 360 ft-lbs of torque from them for like 100 more seems like a better deal to me. My thing is will the 350 bolt up where my lt1 did or am i going to run into problems if so what problems will there be? I am taking donations toward the Z28reggie foundation lol so i could get the nice lt1 for 3599.00+600 core But i dont think that is going to happen with college right around the corner

 

Why do you need a short block? Why not just build your current block?

 

I would love to build my own but dont really have the time and a back up car for the time that takes Looking to stay pretty cheap right now and that motor isnt a short block i dont think the site said long but would it bolt up ? and would i be able to use my computer or what else would i need? would tranny work 4l60e ?

 

Why do you need a new engine period is what I was getting at? What are your plans?

 

OHH gotcha Well i am the thrid owner of the car and the motor has been worked(in a bad way) it has a few oil leaks and what not. I want to get a freash motor because i am going to another state for school and wont have my buddies help to work on the car so i want it to be more dependable. I have popped 2 freeze plugs and ran completely out of oil going to the beach for beach week found out my rear main seal is leaking as well. If i was to rebuild the motor i have what all would you think would be needed and about how much would it cost I would do most of the work just can do like block work and heads and what not

 

Are you looking for a stock rebuild?
If you want to minimize down time, look for a stock short/long block for sale in your area. Pick it up for a good price and take it to a reputable machine shop in your area. Them the you want a bore and hone .030" over, align hone the mains, recondition the stock rods and install ARP rod bolts, install new Mahle lightweight hypereutectic pistons (or forged aluminum if you have the cash), cut/polish the stock crank, balance the rotating assembly, install all new rings and bearings, heat tank and magnaflux the block. Now you will have a stout 355 that can handle a nice amount of power and rpm. New GM pump with GM white spring. New timing set. Now is the best time to install a cam while you are at it.

Take the stock heads and have them milled, 3-angle valve job, new valve seals and new valve springs (quality Comp 918's, PAC 1218's, or Crane 10308's if you are installing a cam. LT4 springs if you are using stock cam w/ 1.6 rr's). Ported heads would be nice, but if you don't have the budget for it, don't sweat it.

Use all new gaskets and maybe pick up some ARP head bolts. You can use GM impala head gaskets to bump up your compression a little.

Cost shouldn't be too bad. Depends on what extras you want to throw in and what power goal you have in mind. I would imagine that you can get the machine work on the block done for 2k or less.

 

So you think it will be about 2g to rebuild my motor could cut some price down if i use my block and bum rides til i done ? would the cc306 be a good cam to go with ? should i do a stall i hear they are great mods to do

 

Where are you located? I have a stock shortblock for sale uber cheap. PM me if interested.

 

Is this cam any good

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...Q5fAccessories

 

I highly suggest you read all of the stickies at the top of the forum.

 

will do

 

That is a terrible camshaft for an LT1, LT1s are roller and that cam is for slat tappet

 

like ramair said, read up some. you're looking at putting a gen1 motor in a gen2 car, big headache imo. 2nd like JB said a flat tappet cam in a roller motor.

just look around and read up, slp has some good advice for a budget rebuild, or I think there's someone on here or elsewhere selling GM LT1 shortblocks (brand new) for cheap. I know my friends just both got one each for like 999.99 plus shipping.

 

You seem to not understand HP ratings too. Factory ratings are as installed in the car, accessories quiet intake and exhaust. A stock LT1 tested on an engine dyno like those crate engines are will put out more than 330hp even though the factory as installed rating was 275.

I would and actually have done the junkyard shortblock thing. They will be BETTER than a under $3000 rebuilt complete engine. To rebuild an engine that cheap a LOT of crappy parts are used unless it is someone like GM doing the rebuild, then economy of scale kicks in and they can do a good rebuild cheap.

 

I wouldn't get the CC306 unless you were planning on having head work done and you were installing a higher stall & taller gears.
For stock heads, I'd recommend the CC503.

^^^That's usually one of the best ideas. Find yourself a reasonable mile stock short/long block in your area. Then you can install your cam and bolt-ons to that new engine.