Hey guys,

I'm going to be installing some ebay longtubes tomorrow. Any advice would be great. I have a 93 z28 A4. I 'm pb blasting the bolts tonight. Do i need to use loctite? What all should i take off? What does the egr and air do? The headers have connections but dont look like they match. Thanks in advance!

 

-Remove the steering knuckle, starter, alt, and dipstick tube.
-PB works great.
-Please install either some new motor mounts or poly motor mounts while you are at it...I'm tired of seeing threads with people wondering why their headers are hiting the k-member or rubbing the steering knuckle.
-Use some quality gaskets and 1" long header bolts.
-I recommend using band clamps, not u-bolt clamps.
-Buy a pair of o2 extensions, don't extend the ones you have. And you might as well install new o2 sensors while you are at it.
-Install new NGK TR55 spark plugs and new wires (MSD 8.5mm wires are sweet).

Take your time, good luck.

 

You need to get the car jacked up high as possible. Remove the starter, alternator, oil dip stick, and steering knuckle. Some have had to take the motor mounts loose as well, but I did not. Depends on mileage of the mounts I guess. If you do have higher miles, you might want to install poly mounts while your at it. I would by block off plates for the egr if emissions laws are ok in your area. I have had the best luck installing the headers from the bottom. Oh and your going to need o2 harness extensions!

 

Beat me too it ss.slp, I knew you would lol!

 

Thanks for the quick replies. Can i get the motor mounts at a local patrts store and how much should they cost? I read about guys cutting the k member and grinding down the knuckle. The motor mounts should keep me from having to do this? I just got an oil change and new plugs and wires. Should i expect to lose some oil when I remove the dipstick and how does it come off? When you say the steering knuckle, what part is that(i'm guessing disconnecting the steering column) Sorry for the noob questions but I'm coming from the jeep world lol... Also, are the o2 extensions for the front or rear sensors? thanks again

 

I got my poly motor mounts from Spohn for ~53 bucks. Yes, that will save you from grinding or cutting anything.
You won't loose any oil. The dipstick is bolted to the block with a little 10mm bolt. It sometimes takes a little shimmying to get it out, and even more to get it back in. You might get lucky and it will slip back in easy. Otherwise you can sand it down a little and lube it up and stick it in.
Look at how your power steering rack connects to the end of the steering column. That thing that connects it is called the steering knuckle and is held on by a 11mm bolt at each end. O2 extensions are for the front o2's. The rears you just leave unplugged and tucked out of the way.

 

Just make sure you used GOOD gaskets like a fel pro set... i used cheap paper ones that came with the headers... part if it actually fell off after bout 6000 miles

 

what does blocking off the egr and air do? any performance gains? what can i use to plug them? thanks again?

 

No performance gain, just clean up the engine bay. You can delete AIR/EGR/EVAP. Try searching the boards here for threads on it.

 

if you are using ceramic coated headers, buy new o2s but don't install them until a few good heat cycles (~500 miles to be safe) because the coating will ruin the o2. Don't use Fel-Pro gaskets they use the outboard holes for factory style manifolds and you have to drill the inboard holes (PITA) my suggestion would be the Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal, they are a dead soft steel impregnated and I have had best luck with these. Do a little research on poly mounts and make sure that is something you would like or look into stock replacement motor mounts. The polys will increase vibrations substantially

 

They make felpro gaskets that have both holes. Works on my buddy's car with LPP's.
Honestly the vibration is nothing much IMO. I don't know what all the fuss is about. I have poly everything and a tunnel mounted TA and the vibration is minimal.

 

To each their own but I figured I would let the op decide, I have polys in my car as well and he should be able to make a decision based on pros and cons, not just biased opinions. Since I put the cam in, mine shakes like a dog shittin' peach pits at an idle!

 

So I went to the parts store today and picked up some items for the install. I'm going to have to order some band style clamps since no one in town had any smaller than 4"...So I'm gonna install with some of the regular clamps until I can switch them out. I checked on stock motor mounts through oreilly and advance...both over $100 each and have to order. Guess I'm gonna try without new mounts and see what happens. I will probably order the poly and install later. I also got some anti-seize for the header bolts. I'm gonna use the gaskets I got with the headers as none of the ones in town looked better than what I already have. As for O2 extensions, I'm unsure on this one. I looked into it and I believe the sensors have 4 wires. At the parts store, I looked at a new o2 sensor and it only had one wire for a 93 Z28. If that's the case, I'm just gonna splice in the extra wire. Is this wire special or would some regular wiring work? Thanks in advance and I know I'm a cheapass lol...

By the way, for anyone interested, I'm gonna take pictures along the way and try to make a decent write-up of the install with pictures for people installing these in the future...

 

I just installed lt's and i used fel pro's. They have both holes. I believe mine were the fel pro 1470.

 

the autozone and oreilly "motor mounts" are the entire mount..the steel bracket as well as the mount...thats why they're so pricey..you only need the polyurathane mount for your existing bracket...look around online..summit or jegs

the other good reason to replace motor mounts at this time is because the longtubes will probably bump the bottom of your floor under hard acceleration..poly mounts are stronger/stiffer...thus the vibrations people mentioned...but they'll keep your motor from torqueing as much and thereby keep the floor bump to a minimum....i actually clamped a peice of heater hose spliced open over my collector to dampen the vibration against the floor...some others have used header wrap for the same effect..its ghetto but unless you put on new motor mounts..this is what you'll be dealing with

 

I have a feeling that unless his stock mounts are totally garbage, even if he replaces them the headers may hit the k-member and/or the steering knuckle anyway. I replaced my mounts with polys and my Ebay headers hit both still. Not always the case, but I wouldn't promise they won't because each of the Ebay headers I bet is a bit different. Meaning, I wouldn't doubt the standards for those replicas aren't a bit lower than say Kooks or even LPP.

 

Well, I worked on it for about 9 hours today. I haven't taken an asswhoopin like that in a while...lol. I'm not even close to being done. I have the stock manifolds and exhaust out. Took off the air intake(replacing with k&n), alternator, starter, dipstick, and disconnected the knuckle. The driver side header went in perfect from the top, just had to take out the spark plugs. I am having a problem getting the rear holes to line up, though. I was probably just too aggravated at the moment to get it right. I can't get the passenger side in. I've tried from the bottom, and it seems like I'm gonna have to stand the car on end to get enough room to swoop the header in. I can almost get it in from the top, but it's hittin about 3 spots. The inner fender well, the "A" arm on the wheel, and the valve cover gasket. I may have to do some "adjusting" on the fender so it will twist in right.

My o2 sensors seem like they may be long enough and are only one wire. I do have a couple questions, though. The headers both have ports on the front end of them for air/egr. I can make the driver side work, but on the passenger side the port is on the front and my stock manifolds have it on the back. Also, the header on the passenger side has a little "arm" coming off the rear that looks like it is supposed to bolt onto a hole in the block and flow air. However, my motor nor my stock manifolds had this. What should I do? Thanks alot!!!

 

You need to get the car about 2 feet off the ground. Then both headers will slip in from the bottom easily.

The "arm" you are talking about is for the EGR tube.
http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

 

+1, and I would not "adjust" your fender to get that pass. side header in. It will go in from the bottom if the car is high enough. You just have to hold your mouth just right sometimes.

 

besides getting the car as high as possible, i might suggest unbolting pass side motor mount...i was having the same problem you are with clearing the inner fender, so i unhooked the motor mount and jacked up the engine about and inch or two on that side....it was just enough for the header to slip in