LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Track results are... disappointing

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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #21  
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Optis dont like high rpms, mine went too and it was brand new. Def sounds like your short shifting too.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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yeah i need a shift light, the opti is already on the way along with the coil and im going to get the ICM and new fuel filter now. i dont like throwing parts at a car but i dont know how old this stuff is so id like to replace it anyway so i can narrow things down a little more
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Ill bet the rotor is coming loose. My opti sounded like a box of Cracker Jacks when I pulled it. Take off the cap and locktite the rotor screws or get a MSD cap and rotor and do the same. Since mine is all apart right now thats what Im gonna get b4 it goes back in.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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ive had good luck with ACDelco units so im sticking with that but it will get locktite on the screws and some silicone sealant around the outside to make sure it stays dry
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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well you said it's new plugs and wires, were these problems existant before the plugs and wires? or are they just new as in recently changed? wires can burn at any time on headers, also I've seen brand new sets of wires arch right out of the box or shortly after install. new plugs can get ruined randomly.

what types of plug wires do you have? some brands are prone to problems.

does the car run rough after running for a while or just missfire in the high rpms? this is a usual symptom of failing/bad ignition coils or ICMs, as with older electronics they become "heatsoaked" and begin to perform inadequately when exposed to sources of heat for extended periods of time.

checking plugs and wires is free and relatively easy. reading plugs is one of the key factors of diagnosing an engine.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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what did you car run with the LE2 setup at full weight?
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
well you said it's new plugs and wires, were these problems existant before the plugs and wires? or are they just new as in recently changed? wires can burn at any time on headers, also I've seen brand new sets of wires arch right out of the box or shortly after install. new plugs can get ruined randomly.

what types of plug wires do you have? some brands are prone to problems.

does the car run rough after running for a while or just missfire in the high rpms? this is a usual symptom of failing/bad ignition coils or ICMs, as with older electronics they become "heatsoaked" and begin to perform inadequately when exposed to sources of heat for extended periods of time.

checking plugs and wires is free and relatively easy. reading plugs is one of the key factors of diagnosing an engine.
theyre MSD 8.5 wires with NGK TR55 plugs, i had the problem before and after the wires because i thought it was that. you literally cant tell that theres anything wrong with the car unless its above 5krpms which i think is really strange
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #28  
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oh ok, that's what I was looking for. do you remember any of the plugs you pulled being out of the ordinary? like whiter or darker than the rest?

a high rpm miss could be a number of things, I went through the same hassle as you not long ago, turned out that a small bolt that mounted the icm to the coil bracket came loose and after I put a new bolt in my high rpm miss was gone.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Thats when the rotor starts wobbling. Def get the GM opti then use the MSD cap and rotor from summit. Its a pretty cheap upgrade.
If you were asking me about my times. 11.88@119.44 on a 1.89 60ft, but I did have skinnies on and rear prostars with MTs DRs. Other than that it was full weight besides the rear seats. Now you really cant compare the 2 set ups since my cam is not the same as yours.

Last edited by AChotrod; Jul 25, 2009 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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i was wrong, i just looked up the original for sale thread and id does have 37# injectors. opti time why do you think the MSD cap and rotor is so much better?

Lloyd Elliot Stage 2 Heads
Lloyd Elliot 1.5 Cam 224/230 .600/.600 108 LSA
Lloyd Elliot Port Matched Intake Manifold
Bret Bauer Pro Gear Timing Chain
Meizeire Electric Water Pump with Relay Kit
Delphi 37 lbs Injectors
Comp Pro Mag 1.6 Rocker Arms
Trickflow Guideplates
Comp Harden Push Rods
Moroso Cold Air Intake
Slp Air Foil
160 Degree Thermostat
Canton Valve Covers
NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs
MSD 8.5 Super Conductor Wires
PCM4LESS Tune

thats the setup
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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what do the injectors have to do with anything? what makes you think it's the opti for certain?
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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well it has a new pump, new injectors, and the filter was fine (replacing it anyway) so it has to be ignition related. it had the same symptoms with the old plugs and wires and the new ones so that kind of rules that out (i know you can have bad new parts as well) and im replacing the Coil, ICM, and Opti at the same time so im thinking it SHOULD be one of those 3
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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that's gonna be alot of money if they're all AC DELCO brand, like $600-700

a fuel pressure gauge and simple tests are are much cheaper or even free. there are guides for testing many of the ignition parts online that you want to replace, I think shbox even has an opti test guide.

I've had a brand new walbro **** on me out of the box, just some food for thought. aftermarket parts for the most part aren't really that reliable in comparison to OEM stuff. injectors can get clogged up or stick open at any time.

I really think reading the plugs would be my next step
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #34  
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where do you order parts? lol ICM is like 130, coil from MSD is 45, Opti is 292 shipped like i said though i havent done them since i got the car so it will make me feel better doing them myself and hopefully solve my problem

it was doing it before the fuel pump too. it was something i wanted to upgrade and hoped to solve the problem at the same time. ill be running a 150 shot in the near future and had the funds so it wasnt a big deal
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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well mostly I was quoting dealership prices and meant more like $500-600. I know last AC delco unit I bought (while ago) was near/around $400

either way though that's $500+ you might not have to spend
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
well mostly I was quoting dealership prices and meant more like $500-600. I know last AC delco unit I bought (while ago) was near/around $400

either way though that's $500+ you might not have to spend
ouch! your non vented though right? theyre alot more. ill try a fuel pressure gauge today
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:04 PM
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advance auto parts sells AC delco units for over $500 for my year, just looked it up actually lol

lots of parts stores, Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, etc. will let you rent the kind of tools you need for some of the test for just a deposit that is refundable.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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The rotor is 10x beefier than the factory pc, plus the cap looks cool! lol!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MS...1/?image=large
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #39  
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i dont know if its worth the $140 lol i had a factory piece take me to 12.51 with bolt ons and a stock tq converter in my old car
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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Its the higher RPMs that kill it not power or ETs. I went low 11s with my Old Formula on the stock opti but would only spin to 6100 so I never had a prob. I blew up a brand new opti in less than 500 miles spinning to 67-6800.
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