Post pix of your LT1 engine.
Readers digest version of how to make it...
*Delete your AC.
*Cut the "V" brace off of the bottom of the hood latch support.
*Remove top section of fins on the radiator, only where the intake pipe will sit though.
*Purchase a 3.5" mandrel 60 degree, 1D radius elbow from Drgas.com
*Trim elbow to appropiate length, then slightly oval the end for the TB.
*Extend the wires for the MAF & IAT sensors to reach over the radiator.
*Purchase a 3.5" to 4" silicone connector and clamps to connect pipe to TB. And a 3.5" to 3.5 connector for the pipe to MAF.
*Purchase a 3.5 ID cone or oval style K&N filter, there's lots of choices so pick one to suit your needs.
*Cut a piece of sheet metal to desired shape for the rad cover (I used a plasma cutter, much easier)
*Bend the cover on a sheetmetal bender to fit, drill bolt holes and hole for the rubber insulators on top of the rad.
*Powdercoat or paint it all to suit your liking
Thanks
Readers digest version of how to make it...
*Delete your AC.
*Cut the "V" brace off of the bottom of the hood latch support.
*Remove top section of fins on the radiator, only where the intake pipe will sit though.
*Purchase a 3.5" mandrel 60 degree, 1D radius elbow from Drgas.com
*Trim elbow to appropiate length, then slightly oval the end for the TB.
*Extend the wires for the MAF & IAT sensors to reach over the radiator.
*Purchase a 3.5" to 4" silicone connector and clamps to connect pipe to TB. And a 3.5" to 3.5 connector for the pipe to MAF.
*Purchase a 3.5 ID cone or oval style K&N filter, there's lots of choices so pick one to suit your needs.
*Cut a piece of sheet metal to desired shape for the rad cover (I used a plasma cutter, much easier)
*Bend the cover on a sheetmetal bender to fit, drill bolt holes and hole for the rubber insulators on top of the rad.
*Powdercoat or paint it all to suit your liking
Readers digest version of how to make it...
*Delete your AC.
*Cut the "V" brace off of the bottom of the hood latch support.
*Remove top section of fins on the radiator, only where the intake pipe will sit though.
*Purchase a 3.5" mandrel 60 degree, 1D radius elbow from Drgas.com
*Trim elbow to appropiate length, then slightly oval the end for the TB.
*Extend the wires for the MAF & IAT sensors to reach over the radiator.
*Purchase a 3.5" to 4" silicone connector and clamps to connect pipe to TB. And a 3.5" to 3.5 connector for the pipe to MAF.
*Purchase a 3.5 ID cone or oval style K&N filter, there's lots of choices so pick one to suit your needs.
*Cut a piece of sheet metal to desired shape for the rad cover (I used a plasma cutter, much easier)
*Bend the cover on a sheetmetal bender to fit, drill bolt holes and hole for the rubber insulators on top of the rad.
*Powdercoat or paint it all to suit your liking
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Honestly I didn't really do it for a performance gain. I did it mostly for cosmetic reasons and to have something unique. I changed too many things at once to say that it gave me any sort of a gain in performance. But I can tell you that when datalogging the car, the intake air temps are now always withing a degree or two of the outside temp, whereas with my K&N CAI it was always several degrees higher. That might be good for a little something perhaps.
Honestly I didn't really do it for a performance gain. I did it mostly for cosmetic reasons and to have something unique. I changed too many things at once to say that it gave me any sort of a gain in performance. But I can tell you that when datalogging the car, the intake air temps are now always withing a degree or two of the outside temp, whereas with my K&N CAI it was always several degrees higher. That might be good for a little something perhaps.
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