ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Not sure what that is.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

im pretty sure hes talkin about the oil pump drive

aboatguy

You can take care of the false knock via tune instead of LT4 Knock module.


I've been running a 23X 23x with .61X lift on a 110 LSA cam, and promags with stock LT1 knock module for more than a year now with no issues.

ADM

I read in many posts that the Pacesetter header gaskets are not good, and many people say get Percys.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PH...1/?image=large

Is it true, or is it worth the 30$ insurance?

aboatguy

Percy's sealed good for me (no leaks)



Mike

MDR

iTrader: (1)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-68031/

Definitely ditch the pacesetter crap gaskets, here are the ones I'm running with no problems, plus they are only $20. Make sure to tighten your header bolts again after the first heat cycle and periodically there after.

ADM

Sounds good, but the soft gasket would probably make a better seal since it will seat itself better.

Tightening the bolts twice won't be necessary. If I can find the nuts I am looking for that is.

ADM

I spent about 5 hours working on the car, and took my time preparing it for the cam swap and supporting mods.

Removing the spark plugs was such a piece of cake, with the manifolds on (I have not touched the exhaust yet but will do tomorrow). I don't know why everyone says its annoying and takes forever to replace. Get yourself some decent tools guys, and you will be able to do anything. Deep socket 5/8, 3/8" drive universal joint and a 3/8" drive ratchet from Snap-on or FACOM. Thats all I ever used, and I have huge hands!

I removed water pump and opti, radiator, condenser, crank pulley, fans, removed the driver side O2 sensor, and stopped at the timing cover which will be dealt with after the exhaust manifolds are off.

I only took 2 pics, will post them soon.

ADM

I just realized I forgot to order the EGR block off plate. I removed the intake lastnight, well lifted it, but forgot to disconnect the EGR pipes around the back so I will get to those. The exhaust manifolds are really annoying, there is not much more I can say lol tonight, an electric saw or a grinder disc will be there to chop up the stock Y because the passenger side bolts at the flange are solid.

Any tips guys?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Tips on what?

ADM

Like being careful with the vacuum lines going to the fuel pressure regulator because they are brittle and they can break easily.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Only vague tips that I can give is to have a quality DIY write up on hand and take your time.

ADM

I am taking my time. I just realized the plastic pipe I broke is for the EVAP. Since I will be deleting the emissions, I won't be needing it.

I removed the rocker arms and pushrods today, intake is off.

I need to source a hub puller, which won't be easy. Any alternative ways to remove it? A pulley puller and some tricks?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

-4" Caliper bolt
-3 jaw-puller

Remove the crank bolt, slip the 4" caliper bolt (like this one: https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/images/boltcaliper.jpg) inside, attach the 3 jaw puller to push against the caliper bolt and pull on each ear of the hub. Done it that way countless number of times, never had a problem.

To reinstall the crank hub, you'll need a hardened threaded 7/16 20 rod, a hardened 7/16 nut, and a few large hardened washers. Thread the rod into the crank, slip the hub onto the rod, slip over a few lubricated washers (large enough to contact the hub properly), screw on the nut and tighten with a wrench until the hub is seated all the way on.

ADM

Will give it a go after my shift cycle is over. I got a 4" puller today, hope its not too big for this job?

Is the hub keyed for correct reinstallment or should I mark it?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

No it is not, but the balancer is asymmetric and will only go on one way. Before removing the hub, rotate the crank until #1 piston is at TDC. Then you can remove the balancer and hub. Now when it comes time to reinstall the hub, take special care to install it so that when the balancer is bolted up to it the little cast in arrow ('93-'94) on the balancer or the pointy corner of the inside cast triangle ('95-'97) is pointing to the 12 o'clock position.

ADM

If I do disturb the crank position during the removal of the hub, I could always turn the flywheel over and get it back to TDC, would that be ok?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah. Usually after I remove the hub, I put the crank bolt back in with enough washers to seat the bolt head flush against the washers. That will allow me to be able to easily spin over the engine. I also remove the spark plugs to eliminate compression.