mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I installed a set today while installing an engine.

I must say they are about the biggest piece of **** header. Had to cut the k-member and plate it, now I have 2 parts od the steering shaft hitting...lol


any ideas on fixing that?


I think I will beat the hell out of that tube with a hammer.....

if you are4 thinking of those pretty ebay SS headers..DONT they are crap!!

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

which ones? there are a couple on there

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

Lots of headers have issues man. Especially stepped or 1 7/8 inch headers. You can move the steering column and it should eliminate those issues. And alot headers hit the passenger side K member. The ones on ebay are basically the same as the LPP's. I don't know how the overall quality is of what you bought but fitment issues will occur with many different headers. Good luck though.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

Did you buy the stepped headers or the pacesetter replicas? Post up an ebay link.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I dont know wat they are, they look like lpp. its not my car. I am just working on it. pass side is clear. drivers side hit 2 pipe on the bottom... thats fixed.....

the steering col. moved? never heard of that.....

also neverhad issues with any headers on anything either. I will get it fixed, I am just saing these are cheap.

I'd like to hear more about this moving the steering col too

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

The 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the firewall...you can drill out two of the holes on the steering column piece, (the little triangular shaped piece) so that you can shift the steering column. Some other guys had to do this with the LPP headers and kooks have been known to rub too. My Jet hot's on the pass side are as close as they could possibly be without hitting the K member. Just a few examples of headers having issues. Not all cars are going to be the same. Alot of cars have no issues. Anyways...if you feel like it and have some time you can skim through some LPP threads and they talk more about moving the steering column. I did it with my LPP's when my TA was together. It made almost no difference in the inside (steering wheel was still straight) and it only took like 30 minutes.

BTC

My 1 3/4" Kooks went in like butter, but it seems most all stepped headers, regardless of manufacturer, have some fitment issues.

95 TA - The Beast

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure it just isn't a motor mount issue?

If they are sagging you can run into a lot of issues. Especially if they have had another kind of header for a while. The extra heat really takes it's toll on the rubber.

Hell, I have had melted polys as well...

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

LOL , what ya expect. You get what you pay for. Theres a reason there cheap.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

solid mounted engine.

I got everything fixed besides its still hitting the steering rod and one of the pipes is hitting the pass side fram...lol

Im going to heat them wih a torch and bend them.

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

It's not that they are cheap...the polished stainless pipes are actually pretty thick steel and pretty decent quality stainless...not the best, but not the worst either. Where the "cheapness" comes in I think is in the standards of welds/angles/etc. A .5* difference at the header primary makes a large difference down the pipe. Plus, as stated above, there are many factors like old motor mounts, differences in chassis', etc. that make fitment different for every car. Solid mounts eliminates there being a possible change in location later, but they could still be lower than stock height off the frame or something causing an issue with the LTs, or it's just off a bit. My ORY needed "adjustment". I have access to a shop with plenty of fab tooling though, so it was worth saving like $550 to get the knock-offs and spend an extra 4-5 hours. That's just me though. Someone working out of their garage with limited tooling and time may want as little headache as possible and be willing to spend the extra to make sure that is how it goes.