dr97Z,

Have you figured out the tach? Our 93 is doing the exact same thing.

 

The LS1 PCM allows you to use...
- one or two knock sensors
- flat response or resonant type knock sensors

Resonant
LT1/LS1 type knock sensors. Single wire.

Flat Response
LS2 and newer type knock sensors. Two wires. Does not fit LT1 (or SBC) block.

Because of the motor mount clearance issues on bank one in the f-body, it's easiest to use only one resonant type knock sensor. Specifically the 96-97 LT1 knock sensor...and not the earlier LT1 knock sensor. Simply change the calibration to indicate one knock sensor and you're done.

 

Regarding the tach issue...my 94 was about at half RPM when i first started it. I changed the tach pulses high and low to 3 and it works dead on now. Hope that helps!

 

I was driving my 97 the other day during a strong storm and I got the dreaded stumble along with the SES indicating my opti was not very happy. It dried out, the SES is gone and all seems well, but I just don't trust this car as is for long trips, which I like to do on occasion. I like this solution but 1. I don't feel like taking my car apart AGAIN right now, 2. the price is a little too much for this summer. I sent an email to the company with a few questions and they got back quickly.

I'm thinking about still going with a LTCC, which is simpler to install (leaving the opti as-is) and upgrading to this at a later date when/if I get a little work done on the engine. I assume you folks upgrading from the LTCC are using your existing coils?

 

Does anyone know if you can delete the oil pressure sensor from the PCM? Does it need to know oil pressure? Im going to be running full autometer gauge setup and its not needed...

 

The LS1 Camaro/Firebird does not have an oil pressure sensor (but they do have a one wire sender).

However, the LS1 Corvette does have an oil pressure sensor, but it's not required. If not using the oil pressure sensor with a Corvette calibration, you simply need to disable the DTC...or deal with the MIL illuminated.

 

Just wanted to say, I couldn't be happier with this kit. My dyno graph was incredibly smooth, no missfires. Runs and drives great.

Tach issue can be resolved in tuning by the way.

 

We were able to fix our tachometer issue as well with the tuning, tach and speedo work perfect

 

Is there some reason you would expect the numbers to be higher than the original PCM? Unless you have a healthy enough engine to need to go past 7000 to make power, it ain't gonna happen.

 

Yeah I would like to see something with a large solidroller or hydraulic that would pull up to 7400-7500rpms but it's not common on here. I just went to a used fast DFI setup b/c it was cheaper than just the wiring harness for the LS1 PCM setup and should be much easier to tune. Later

 

I now use a FAST XFI in mine. Compared to my old LT1 PCM, it only made more power above 7000. My old 383" liked to be shifted about 8000, so it loved it. A 7000 RPM LT1 won't make one more hp with a different PCM.

 

...and they certainly don't advertise it doing so either. The tuning options increases three-fold out here in SoCal.

 

No More Optispark is the object here. My dyno graph was so much smoother from having no missfires, and I wouldn't be afraid to take it anywhere now.

 

People having a lot of Optispark problems need to look in the mirror for the cause. A new GM unit, or even better a Dynaspark, properly installed, with a sub 7500 RPM engine will run fine for many miles. Dowel pin engagement depth and cam end play are crucial as well as locktite on the rotor screws along with alumini pop rivets holding the blade on the rotor if you are spinning it over 6500. Don't buy parts store crap, nor any other brand aftermarket. No matter how pretty yellow or red they are.

 

TPIS did a 396ci LT1 comparison with LT1 PCM, high output coil, and MSD optispark and then LS1 PCM with individual coils. The gain was 28 hp and 17.5 ft-lb on the engine dyno. I seem to recall the engine being pulled to 6200 rpm.

TPIS also mentioned that the Delteq system slightly improves horsepower and torque compared to stock LT1 ignition.

Source is Street Thunder Magazine, May/June 2010. I can't link to the article because EFI Connection is not a paying vendor on LS1tech.

 

You have a pm.

 

So I just fired up my new engine setup. The build consist of of Trick flow heads ported by TEA, Solid Roller Cam, Vic Jr Intake, Elbow, 95mm TB, EFI Connection ECM. After already trying the LTCC, Deltech, Electromotive, MDS with the factory ECM. On my YSI Supercharger 383 LT1. I have had nothing but problems trying to fire above 18lbs of boost with the other set ups.

This setup already sounds crisper and the throttle response in amazing.

Two thumbs up to EFI Connections. Will have all the VE mapping done tomorrow and then on to my Dyno Jet for full throttle tuning.

The LS based ECM is light years better than the LTX ECM. Just the fact that we can use a 3 Bar operating system is amazing.

Thanks Mike for all the help a few months ago when I was doing the wiring harness.

Will keep everyone posted.

 

Using the do it yourself wiring harness from EFI ordered it today. Hoping the wiring will all be smooth sailing, is there any links I should check out to make this easier? Plan on taking the LT1 harness out and sitting down in front of the TV and going to town.

 

Just take your time and double check everything. I used pinouts from both my 96 Trans Am and a 02 Trans AM.

That way it was easy to make a spread sheet of what went where.

Hope that helps. Took me about 10 hrs to make. That was cutting and shortening wires and removing crap that I didn't need anymore. The harness turned out amazing.

 

I'm getting ready for my first start soon with EFI connection...full drivetrain swap, procharger F1A...I can't wait! I got the plug-n-play harness...but it was used, so I got a great deal on it. Otherwise, I'd have been sitting in front of the TV wiring too!
This thread has been a great read, especially for those interested or are in the midst of building with one.