Figured I would make a thread and try to document as much as possible for fellow LTX guys. Just recieved my package from Mike today (got it in 3 days), and everything looks great, well put together setup.

I spent $705 shipped with him for the following parts
24x Crankshaft Reluctor (Double roller)
1x Camshaft Housing Kit
24x Crankshaft Position Sensor
24x Throttle Body ID Plate (don't think it will fit Monoblade?)
24x LT1 Harness Do-It-Yourself Kit
Coil Connector Pigtail for GM# 12573190 - Set of 8

I sourced these parts on ebay, spent $193.52 Shipped for items below
01+ LS PCM PN# 12200411 (mines from an 03 vette)
Brand NEW LS Ignition Coil PN#12573190 (used on later LSX engines, LS2)
So the total at the moment is $898.52


The entire kit


I logged on Shoebox's website and got the pinouts for the 96 LT1 PCM, 85% of doing the harness will be just taking the pin out of the LT1 PCM and transfering it to the LS1 PCM, very little wiring needs to be done from the looks of the kit.

I already have the 96-97 timing cover, but the reluctor wheel is still a problem with a double roller, Single roller would fit fine. So instead of getting rid of my DR cloyes and buying the $230+ LT4 extreme duty. I plan on having my Tig guy plasma cut the area of the cover and weld a bead on the cut part and retig. This will give me the added clearence to the cover. probably cost me $40-$50

Sold my Delteq for $360.00 shipped, LT4 knock Module for $27 shipped, and will hopefully be selling my Opti (basically no miles on it, soon for around $80.00). That will be $467.00, so the LS1 PCM conversion technically will only cost me around $400.

If anyone has any questions let me know, plan to get started on it tonight.
Thanks, Ben

 

The DR + reluctor ring will throw your crank hub and harmonic balancer out of alignment with the rest of your acc. You could measure the additional width added by the double roller + reluctor ring - width of stock crank sprocket and cut that much off of the stock crank hub.

I'll be watching this thread, very interesting.

 

Nice..hope it works out well for you, looks like it will.

Did you look up the Circular Truck Coils..from the earlier models?
The reason I ask is cause they are the ones that have more of a punch..I have them and got them at the Junk Yard off of a wrecked truck for $100.

 

There are some good single roller sets out there that you could use. I think Rollmaster has one and even Cloyes.

 

Lookin good, YGPM.

 

Im watching, I have been seriously thinking about this exact set up myself

 

Looks good Ben. I still think youre crazy for the DIY harness lol

 

cool! I hope to do this conversion at some point myself.

 

thinking about it as well. but also just thinking about going carb and selling all the efi stuff.

 

Very nice. And yes, Cloyes makes a SR timing set. I've got one. From the picture, it looks like it may be a bit difficult, but from the sound of it...That doesn't seem too bad. Good luck!

 

Okay it's been 4 hrs since you started this post, is it in yet? can we hear it? com'on were tired of waiting!


JK....Sorta......not Really

 

Custom made a bracket that holds the coilpacks. It is bolted to my Canton Valvecovers, also I plan to use OEM LS plug wires.
A good friend is suppose to come by later with a crank puller to help me pull my ATI superdamper then off comes the Opti and Timing cover.

Actually there is a few inches between the timing cover and balancer and the hub is the same thickness for several inches. I figure about around .5-1inch is all that is needed to extend the end of the timing cover out. I will look at this more in the next few days (or night)

Merv I have heard that as well, but to be honest I don't know if there is any hard evidence showing true gains (the turbo guys use those coils though, lol) I do believe the later LS coils are better than the LS1/LS6 coils, from what I hear anyways.

Nah Paul shouldn't be too bad, lol. To be honest doing it myself will actually help me clean up the wiring harness. For those that don't know you can unplug it from under the dash, and right at the passenger side fender (mines actually in the wheel well) comes right out. Also I have a TCI box that controls my 4L80E/ paddle shift combo, so I don't even have to pin in the transmission (well just a few inputs to make the TCI box happy) I have it counted up and its around 60 repins.

I'd take a "GOOD" EFI system over a carb anyday, JMO.

Wish I could have gotten more done today (my day off), still may. I can get a running clip when its done, be worned though my car whistles pretty loud

 

No, you're not getting what I am saying. The crank hub seats against the crank sprocket, and in the case of '96-'97 it seats against the reluctor ring which seats against the crank sprocket. Hense why the '96-'97 crank hub is shorter. Now you are going to be using a DR (approximately the same width of the stock crank sprocket AND the stock reluctor ring) and a reluctor ring. When you seat the crank hub onto the relector ring, it will be further away than where ist's supposed to sit (not to mention the key in the crank that locates the crank sprocket and reluctor ring might not be long enough to seat both a DR crank sprocket and a reluctor ring), then when you bolt on the harmonic balancer, it will be out of alignment. You might throw/shred belts, you might not. Just pointing it out to you.

 

Ok I see what your saying, when I get in there I'll take a closer look

 

Why do you need both? I thought you ditched the stock ring for a new 24x one and replaced the sensor? I dont see a reason you would keep the stock one if your not using it? am I completely off base?

 

No, what I am saying is that his new double roller crank sprocket is about the same thickness as the stock crank sprocket and the '96-'97 stock reluctor ring. Then he will be using a reluctor ring on top of that, so his crank hub will be even further out. There is also a key inside the sock crank whick keeps the crank sprocket from spinning. The key is just long enough to engage the stock reluctor ring. Once he goes with the DR crank sprocket, the key might not be long enough to engage the reluctor ring he plans on using.

 

I really wanna upgrade the PCM. Is this setup really going to be comparable to say the F.A.S.T setup? Do the give a diagram of the wires that need to be moved. I've got a 6 speed so I won't have some of the non sense that you'll have to put up with. Also, EFI connection is going to offer a new timing cover later on that's supposed to addres this issue but it's gonna be about $300. A lil pricey but I'm not sure what's envolved with the mod you spoke of, PICS please?

 

I dont think thats a problem, plenty of ppl run DR when they go to electric pumps and they dont have a problem...

 

No, the problem is not with using the double roller...
Yes, many people use DR timing sets. It usually requires a little clearancing on the inside of the timeing cover. If you have a '96-'97 car, a double roller timing set requires the deletion of the reluctor ring. But the OP is going to use a DR and a reluctor ring, which won't fit under the stock timing cover. The OP knows this and is prepared to modify his timing cover to get it to fit. But what I am trying to tell him is that the crank hub will be out of alignment (whether it's actually an issue remains to be seen) and that the key might not engage his reluctor ring (that would be a big issue).

 

Yes TPIS is most likely going to make a timing cover just for this conversion. Same company that makes the TB's to work with the Drive-by-wire.

The FAST system is one of the best ECU's on the market (along with BS3 IMO). They can do a few things the LSX PCM can't like run 16 injectors, program 2nd fuel pump, on the fly tuning.
My response to those items are 16 injectors are probably not needed till around 1500hp, I have a hobbs switch for my second fuel pump. Once a good initial tune is loaded, your not going to have to tune much anymore. Moates makes a roadrunner system for the PCM I bought (01+ LS1 pcm) that plugs into the pcm that enables on the fly tuning.

Last time I priced a FAST system it was around $2500, this setup will cost less than $1000.