crank hub Q
well I don't want to make ANOTHER thread lol but on shoebox's site it says to remove the crank sprocket if your replacing the timing set which I'm not.. but I think I may have to remove it to get the cam sprocket and chain off. is this normal or do I just really have to yank on it? I thought I had allot of slack in the timing chain til I went to pull it off, I guess its pretty good for nearly 100k miles
Just remove the top sprocket then, I also use a 2 jaw puller to get off the bottom sprocket its a bitch.
Lucky I never really searched it. There wasnt anything called the "internet" at the time, just used what I had available. lol! I did buy a puller this time around and it was much easier.
Lucky I never really searched it. There wasnt anything called the "internet" at the time, just used what I had available. lol! I did buy a puller this time around and it was much easier.
Just remove the top sprocket then, I also use a 2 jaw puller to get off the bottom sprocket its a bitch.
Lucky I never really searched it. There wasnt anything called the "internet" at the time, just used what I had available. lol! I did buy a puller this time around and it was much easier.
Lucky I never really searched it. There wasnt anything called the "internet" at the time, just used what I had available. lol! I did buy a puller this time around and it was much easier.
..I don't get it. it sounds so easy on shoebox's site and in my haynes manual, just slide off the cam sprocket and timing chain... I can't get mine even close to clearing the dowel pin on the cam??
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don't worry I got it off w/o the pry bar, I had the sprocket bolts off but I could only get the face of the sprocket level with the dowel pin..until I put my feet on the block and used my legs
I was surprised my chain is still that tight after all these years.
I was surprised my chain is still that tight after all these years. 
Couple things.
1) Use a 4" caliper bolt slipped into the crank bolt hole. It's smooth and won't tear up your crank threads. Engage your 3 jaw puller or other hub remover tool on the end of the bolt. Should pull the hub right off.
2) Once you remove the 3 cam sprocket bolts, you should be able to swivel the cam sprocket counter clockwise (assuming you have the cam sprocket and crank sprocket dot-to-dot, meaning that the cam dowel pin is in the 3 o'clock position). This will allow the cam gear to swivel down some and give you the slack you need to pull up on the chain and slip the cam sprocket out.
1) Use a 4" caliper bolt slipped into the crank bolt hole. It's smooth and won't tear up your crank threads. Engage your 3 jaw puller or other hub remover tool on the end of the bolt. Should pull the hub right off.
2) Once you remove the 3 cam sprocket bolts, you should be able to swivel the cam sprocket counter clockwise (assuming you have the cam sprocket and crank sprocket dot-to-dot, meaning that the cam dowel pin is in the 3 o'clock position). This will allow the cam gear to swivel down some and give you the slack you need to pull up on the chain and slip the cam sprocket out.
just finished got 2 bolts left on the coolant cross over tubes then the heads come off and its re-assemble time
this stuff ain't too hard, a little intimidating at first but I would of been lost a couple times with out your guys help! thanks everyone!!
got 2 bolts left on the coolant cross over tubes then the heads come off and its re-assemble timethis stuff ain't too hard, a little intimidating at first but I would of been lost a couple times with out your guys help! thanks everyone!!
