crank hub Q
crank hub Q so I'm SLOWLY making progress on my cam swap, I get some time here and there.. but why is my crank hub different than what I see in my haynes and on shoebox's site?
is this a crank under drive pulley?
is this a crank under drive pulley?
cool I thought so, just making sure I knew what I was looking at. I like these surprise mods, the previous owner only mentioned a alt u/d pulley, wonder what else I'll find 
so i leave the hub bolt in to pull it right? just making sure before i crank on the puller cause its resisting allot more than the balencer
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if I take the bolt off wont the hub come off with it? and don't I have to mark the hubs location?edit: which AI cam did you go with?
hahah rust proofing! nah I'll clean it when I get it all stripped down
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Verdad Gallardo well you want both of them to come off anyway, but i dought hub will even move. you need a hub puller to take that one off. its kinda trick for a 1st time. you need to put in a longer bolt in the middle then put the hub puller on then start turning. have you done the valve springs yet?
o no you dont have to mark the hub just match it up w/ the key on the crank. the key on the crank should be matched w/ the crank sprocket.
o no you dont have to mark the hub just match it up w/ the key on the crank. the key on the crank should be matched w/ the crank sprocket.
Last edited by sepno77; Aug 1, 2009 at 12:52 PM.
well you want both of them to come off anyway, but i dought hub will even move. you need a hub puller to take that one off. its kinda trick for a 1st time. you need to put in a longer bolt in the middle then put the hub puller on then start turning. have you done the valve springs yet?
and are you asking about the valve springs cause I need to do that 1st? ...probably huh cause I'm not supposed to move the crank after taking the hub off right? 
I realize I'm over my head here heh, just taking it slow, reading everything twice and jumpin on here when I have questions. wish I had the $ to have this done, I was only trying to fix an oil leak and dropped $400 on having the rear main done but it turned out to be the intake mani, so I figured I would cam it and my buddy said he'd help me so..here I am now
A 3 claw/ hub puller will work but the hole in the hub is to small so you need to put a thinner bolt in the hub a then have the puller press on that.
Last edited by AChotrod; Aug 1, 2009 at 04:19 PM.
and thanks for the help everyone!
Pull off the pulley first.
Also it doest really matter how it comes out its putting it all back in that matters, ie ..setting the rockers and making sure you line up the timing dots. The cam can only go in one way if the dots are lined up. I made sure my crank was TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke to be safe. Oh if your doing it with the heads on the car make sure every piston is TDC when doing the springs so the valve cant drop and use compressed air to hold them up
Also it doest really matter how it comes out its putting it all back in that matters, ie ..setting the rockers and making sure you line up the timing dots. The cam can only go in one way if the dots are lined up. I made sure my crank was TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke to be safe. Oh if your doing it with the heads on the car make sure every piston is TDC when doing the springs so the valve cant drop and use compressed air to hold them up
Pull off the pulley first.
Also it doest really matter how it comes out its putting it all back in that matters, ie ..setting the rockers and making sure you line up the timing dots. The cam can only go in one way if the dots are lined up. I made sure my crank was TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke to be safe. Oh if your doing it with the heads on the car make sure every piston is TDC when doing the springs so the valve cant drop and use compressed air to hold them up
Also it doest really matter how it comes out its putting it all back in that matters, ie ..setting the rockers and making sure you line up the timing dots. The cam can only go in one way if the dots are lined up. I made sure my crank was TDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke to be safe. Oh if your doing it with the heads on the car make sure every piston is TDC when doing the springs so the valve cant drop and use compressed air to hold them up
I've read that compressed air is not needed, that as long as you put each piston at TDC that the valve can't drop in our engines. 
don't use a 3 jaw puller, you could break off out of the hub ears and then your in big trouble. Use this type instead:
and here is how it should work:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
and here is how it should work:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
don't use a 3 jaw puller, you could break off out of the hub ears and then your in big trouble. Use this type instead:
and here is how it should work:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
and here is how it should work:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
ya, it won't fall off like a claw will. just make sure you back out the crank bolt or put a smaller spare bolt or rod in there so the puller and have something to push onto or the hub is going nowhere with that bolt in there tight.
Ive pulled a couple with a 3 jaw and never broke anything, but yes the proper puller should be used if you can get a hold of one. They are only like 15 bucks and will last forever.