have you tried those stage 8 bolts??

 

I drilled holes in the bolt heads and saftey wired them in pairs. Impossible to back out, but a real pain to drill and to wire.

 

hat are stage 8 bolts??? Havent heard of those

 

I see what they are...googled it. I don't think I can use those becaue my damned header bolts are so close to the tube on my headers that I dont think that tab they have will fit...however the clip that goes above the tab may work...it has that gap on one side, I can possible put the header on that side and get that clip on so they wont be able to spin around

 

Actually, I just noticed that a company called Spectre makes locking header bolts that have holes in the heads and come with a stainless steel wire to thread through them...

 

See everyone calling you and idiot is a personal stab, I just mentioned as of right now your not competent to accomplish the work being performed. Honestly, your right I understand shop Labor is extremely expensive and you can easily mess up a few times and still come out cheaper, however at some point you can cause severe damage and no longer have a car. As for help I'm sorry that you do not have friends that are willing to help you out with your ride. You stated you want me to provide help well this is about the best thing you can buy to help. Extremely more reliable/valuable then information floating around on here.

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-...9501661&sr=8-1

 

I always thought a Grade 8 bolt just meant it was made to be stronger. Also, be careful when it comes to Spectre - alot of their parts are very low quality. My brother went threw 3 fuel lines in 2 days from them.

 

Yes, grade 8 is stronger, but locking header bolts is what locks them and prevents them from backing out. Look them up on

 

Granted, a few here are being a bit harsh. However, in all honesty, it's too bad that the OP can't get anybody to help him, because it's painfull obvious that he's in over his head.

For instance, he says he doesn't know if he has SA rocker arms, and/or guide plates. This is a quick visual under the rocker cover. If you can't readily tell, you're swimming in the deep end without a life preserver.....

Permatex red thread locker, or red Loctite....call it what you want, IT'S THE SAME STUFF! Either way, you DON'T use it on aluminum threads, whether it be an automobile or some other mechanical device.

"It was nice of the ARP people to pre-oil the head studs". That oil is to prevent rust while shipping and sitting on a retailer's shelf, NOT to ease installation in your car. Again, if you're not aware of the basic mechanical methods involved in engine assembly, you're risking the health of your car, as well as your financial health.

Understandably, EVERYONE has to start somewhere, but serious cam/head/valvetrain modifications aren't necessarily a good place to cut your teeth. I'm not trying to be harsh or an azzhat, just realistic....



On the other hand, I wasn't aware that a starter motor had enough torque to bend or break pushrods. Did I miss something in the explanation of what happened?

 

In this instance, I think "Grade 8" is being used as a brand name.

 

Check out these at the bottom of the page http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine/index.html , I think they'd work good, and the 5/16 head will give you needed clearance for install.

 

See that's how you talk to people asking for help! It's text so even if you are joking the reader can't tell body language and tone of voice and he's already pissed off get what I mean?


Anyway,

I wasn't available to help him much. The cam was already in when I went to help him with his brakes and heads. I did not know that he didn't really know what he was doing or I would've helped a bit more. But with a wife 3 kids and working out of town 5 out of 7 days a week it's a bit hard. I don't for sure know what broke the pushrods. The starter motor may not have enough torque but it sounds like possibly the engine tried to start and that's when it backfired? First thing I thought of when he told me was cam was in wrong IE #1 not at TDC Compression stroke. He will be bringing his car to my house Tommorrow to use my garage and my help when I'm not working. Hopefully I can help him get everything in right this time!

 

stage 8 header bolts are a product from a company named stage 8....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8911A/

 

They look good, but I like I said, I may have an issue with clearance seeing as how the tubes are so damn clost to the bolts. Its like a puzzle just putting these things back on the car...I have to get some of them in to hold it on, then tighten them down to line the other holes up...then loosen them quite a bit so I can put in the next because if I CAN NOT get it in first...if they are tight the tube wont let me thread it...if I dont tighten it first it will never thread...lol. drives me nuts!

The ones tonskiguy linked me to, the Thread-Loc ones looked GREAT, so I ordered them in 3/8 x 1" with the 5/16 wrench head!

 

i wasnt trying to push you towards them, i was just clarifying them to others that seemed a bit confused with stage 8 and grade 8... well i hope that those work out for you man and goodluck... remember when you put that cam in, those gears should be dot to dot

 

yeah, I got it this time. I only have to mess up ONE time lol...I learn after that and will NEVER repeat the same mistake. Plus after this event, my friends are jumping to help me...wish they had done that before!

The only one that stood by me before was Johnny and he couldn't even be there for the whole thing thanks to his schedule, so he didnt see the problem to correct it. Thanks though Johnny for all your help man!

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

very useful info too
you learn these things through trial and error, everyone has fucked **** up...

 

"See how I talk to people asking for help" ????

How else do you explain to somebody that they're trying to tackle a project that they don't have the mechanical experience and knowledge to successfully complete? I was simply using HIS words, and the phrasing of HIS questions to show that he's not experienced enough to accomplish what he's trying to do.

You may be trying to defend your friend, and that's very nice of you. However, anyway you cut it, he's in over his head!

 

Ok, engine is back apart. EVERY SINGLE exhaust valve was bent...some SEVERELY bent. ALL of my pistons had marks on them from contact, but ALL of them were still good thank god!!!

I am getting ready to re-adjust the cam. I wanna ask this and I know I am probably retarded for asking, but I will anyways because I want to make ABSOLUTELY sure I put it back right htis time...

If I have the heads off...lifters stil in, cam still in, oil drive still in....I already set cylinders 1 and 6 at TDC...can't I just rotate the camshaft still in the car to the correct degree? Do I even need to take the timing cover, lifters, and cam retainer and all that stuff out or can I just rotate it as is???

Finallyjust to clarify...at TDC.....what degree or clock position dows my cam need to be at again? Just re-verifying before I go set it up...

Please no useless critisizm...I am already upset as is and just wanna get this done...

 

yes you have to take the whole front of the engine apart again, good luck this time around! when I removed my cam with the #1 TDC the dowel pin on the cam was @ 3 o'clock