Street LT1 rebuild
08-05-2009, 04:09 PM
#23
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That's a great price for those parts, but i'm not looking at a 383, more like a 377. This car will also keep stock heads and cam.
08-05-2009, 04:33 PM
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You can do that if you want, but are you wanting a street car daily driver, or are you starting to look at more of a track car?
If you do TOO much you will need a buttload of suspension upgrades, driveline upgrades, and rearend upgrades just to make sure you can get traction, and you dont break something.
Why do all of those mods and keep it on stock suspension/rearend?
With what MY car has done I am scared shitless to take it to a track with slicks because I could tear up my rear end, and I already have alot of suspension upgrades.
I mean how much money are you looking at spending here?
If you do TOO much you will need a buttload of suspension upgrades, driveline upgrades, and rearend upgrades just to make sure you can get traction, and you dont break something.
Why do all of those mods and keep it on stock suspension/rearend?
With what MY car has done I am scared shitless to take it to a track with slicks because I could tear up my rear end, and I already have alot of suspension upgrades.
I mean how much money are you looking at spending here?
08-05-2009, 04:42 PM
#28
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You can do that if you want, but are you wanting a street car daily driver, or are you starting to look at more of a track car?
If you do TOO much you will need a buttload of suspension upgrades, driveline upgrades, and rearend upgrades just to make sure you can get traction, and you dont break something.
Why do all of those mods and keep it on stock suspension/rearend?
With what MY car has done I am scared shitless to take it to a track with slicks because I could tear up my rear end, and I already have alot of suspension upgrades.
I mean how much money are you looking at spending here?
If you do TOO much you will need a buttload of suspension upgrades, driveline upgrades, and rearend upgrades just to make sure you can get traction, and you dont break something.
Why do all of those mods and keep it on stock suspension/rearend?
With what MY car has done I am scared shitless to take it to a track with slicks because I could tear up my rear end, and I already have alot of suspension upgrades.
I mean how much money are you looking at spending here?
08-05-2009, 04:50 PM
#29
Stock rods are good for something like 450 rwhp (just throwing a number out there). You said you are keeping stock heads and cam. So all you are effectively doing by adding more stroke is increasing your torque output. Nothing wrong with that, but you are going about these things *** backwards. If all you want to do is make your street car more peppy and fun to drive while being on a slight budget, throw the idea of a stroker out the window. No use in wasting money if you are not going to properly utilize those extra cubes with an upgraded valve train or better heads. And the cost of clearancing the block for a larger stroke (not needed) is about the same as an overbore and hone (needed to seat the new rings). I don't know what mods you currently have, but it sounds like a few more bolt-on's and maybe a cam upgrade are all you need to be satisfied and keep your street car status. Just do what I said in my first post and be done with it...
08-05-2009, 04:52 PM
#30
a 400 crank stroke is whats used in building a 383
if your thinking about building a 377, then u will be using a crank with less than 3.75 stroke. and will pay more becuase u will not be able to use off the shelf conventional rods and pistons like for 383. have less ci, make less power and still be slow. because your using stock heads. and cam.
if your gonna rebuild, find a good stock crank with forged rods and pistons to build a strong 355 a .030 overbore is not really pricey and should be considered part of a rebuild.
building a stroker with stock heads and cam is not very wise, if your expecting some kind of a magic bullet you will be dissapointed.
dont build the stroker if youre worried about paying for a overbore, u will still need heads, cam, intake, tune just to feed the new ci, the stock heads can barely keep up with a stock bolt ons, cam lt1.
08-05-2009, 05:46 PM
#31
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Why? Why not just replace what is not reusable? The stock crank is good for almost 1000hp. If the one you have now is not salvagable, get a new one, like I said. Stock rods are good for something like 450 rwhp (just throwing a number out there). You said you are keeping stock heads and cam. So all you are effectively doing by adding more stroke is increasing your torque output. Nothing wrong with that, but you are going about these things *** backwards. If all you want to do is make your street car more peppy and fun to drive while being on a slight budget, throw the idea of a stroker out the window. No use in wasting money if you are not going to properly utilize those extra cubes with an upgraded valve train or better heads. And the cost of clearancing the block for a larger stroke (not needed) is about the same as an overbore and hone (needed to seat the new rings). I don't know what mods you currently have, but it sounds like a few more bolt-on's and maybe a cam upgrade are all you need to be satisfied and keep your street car status. Just do what I said in my first post and be done with it...
08-05-2009, 05:54 PM
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a 400 crank stroke is whats used in building a 383
if your thinking about building a 377, then u will be using a crank with less than 3.75 stroke. and will pay more becuase u will not be able to use off the shelf conventional rods and pistons like for 383. have less ci, make less power and still be slow. because your using stock heads. and cam.
if your gonna rebuild, find a good stock crank with forged rods and pistons to build a strong 355 a .030 overbore is not really pricey and should be considered part of a rebuild.
building a stroker with stock heads and cam is not very wise, if your expecting some kind of a magic bullet you will be dissapointed.
dont build the stroker if youre worried about paying for a overbore, u will still need heads, cam, intake, tune just to feed the new ci, the stock heads can barely keep up with a stock bolt ons, cam lt1.
08-05-2009, 11:53 PM
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Iam actually kindof confused as to what you want man lol. You start with a 383, then a 377, your scared of a 355, definately dont want a 350, you wanna use stock heads and cam, but wanna spend less than the cost for a stock rebuild???
Your making this difficult on yourself man!
Do a 355, get a cam to go with it, p&p the heads, upgrade the crank with a good stock replacement, fix what's broke, get a tune, and you will be happy and that should end up less than a stock rebuild...
After throwing rod bearings shouldnt you WANT to bore it a little to make sure nothing was damaged and everything seats up right?
Lets say 200 for .030 overbore
150 for tune
850 for P&P
450 for a good cam
That's 1650 so far...that leaves you 550 bucks to get whatever pieces are broken fixed if your builder quoted you 2200 and you wanna stay below that.
Your making this difficult on yourself man!
Do a 355, get a cam to go with it, p&p the heads, upgrade the crank with a good stock replacement, fix what's broke, get a tune, and you will be happy and that should end up less than a stock rebuild...
After throwing rod bearings shouldnt you WANT to bore it a little to make sure nothing was damaged and everything seats up right?
Lets say 200 for .030 overbore
150 for tune
850 for P&P
450 for a good cam
That's 1650 so far...that leaves you 550 bucks to get whatever pieces are broken fixed if your builder quoted you 2200 and you wanna stay below that.
08-06-2009, 08:05 AM
#36
I want to build an engine with a stock bore and the stroke of a 383. I'm not looking for a magic bullet, just something that wont cost more than a stock rebuild. I understand that I will need a tune anyway, the engine was running very rich when it blew. I don't care about maximizing its potential, i'll be happy with whatever I get.
If you don't want to exceed the cost of a stock rebuild then guess what.. that's what you are going to be doing..lol
You are really confising the **** out of us though.
08-06-2009, 11:10 AM
#37
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Go pull a stock LT1 out of a wrecked car and rebuild it using arp hardware and good bearings. Then buy bolt ons and a 150 kit. Congrats you have a fun street car. No need for a stroker if you wanna toss a few ls1s around.
08-06-2009, 12:51 PM
#38
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Iam actually kindof confused as to what you want man lol. You start with a 383, then a 377, your scared of a 355, definately dont want a 350, you wanna use stock heads and cam, but wanna spend less than the cost for a stock rebuild???
Your making this difficult on yourself man!
Do a 355, get a cam to go with it, p&p the heads, upgrade the crank with a good stock replacement, fix what's broke, get a tune, and you will be happy and that should end up less than a stock rebuild...
After throwing rod bearings shouldnt you WANT to bore it a little to make sure nothing was damaged and everything seats up right?
Lets say 200 for .030 overbore
150 for tune
850 for P&P
450 for a good cam
That's 1650 so far...that leaves you 550 bucks to get whatever pieces are broken fixed if your builder quoted you 2200 and you wanna stay below that.
Your making this difficult on yourself man!
Do a 355, get a cam to go with it, p&p the heads, upgrade the crank with a good stock replacement, fix what's broke, get a tune, and you will be happy and that should end up less than a stock rebuild...
After throwing rod bearings shouldnt you WANT to bore it a little to make sure nothing was damaged and everything seats up right?
Lets say 200 for .030 overbore
150 for tune
850 for P&P
450 for a good cam
That's 1650 so far...that leaves you 550 bucks to get whatever pieces are broken fixed if your builder quoted you 2200 and you wanna stay below that.
If your using the stock heads, then scrap the 383 idea. Sounds like your pinching pennies to get a rebuild and are being unrealistic about it. Have the block checked and if it`s ok, then hone the block. Reuse your pistons and get new rings. Buy new rods because after you rebuild yours with new bolts, you`ll be at the price for comperable, if not better, aftermarket rods. Get something like a hot cam. You can pick those up pretty cheap and be done. Oh yeah, have new seals and the heads resurfaced. That`s your cheapest route to getting your car back on the road. If you want more cubes and horsepower, then you have to pay to play.
08-06-2009, 01:57 PM
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that left 550 bucks for those parts...you can easily get pistons, rods, gaskets, bearings, and a crank for that cost. A Complete Stroker kit costs about 700 or so...stock replacement is not THAT much.
I also was GENEROUS on those prices...a P&P probably wont cost 850 bucks...450 is a little over on the cost of a cam...
Realisticly he should have about 6 or 700 for those parts.
I also was GENEROUS on those prices...a P&P probably wont cost 850 bucks...450 is a little over on the cost of a cam...
Realisticly he should have about 6 or 700 for those parts.
08-06-2009, 03:21 PM
#40
that left 550 bucks for those parts...you can easily get pistons, rods, gaskets, bearings, and a crank for that cost. A Complete Stroker kit costs about 700 or so...stock replacement is not THAT much.
I also was GENEROUS on those prices...a P&P probably wont cost 850 bucks...450 is a little over on the cost of a cam...
Realisticly he should have about 6 or 700 for those parts.
I also was GENEROUS on those prices...a P&P probably wont cost 850 bucks...450 is a little over on the cost of a cam...
Realisticly he should have about 6 or 700 for those parts.
It cost much more than 2000 dollars to build a reliable 355 with ported heads, cam, valve train, and supporting mods. I'd say about 2000 just for the bottom end with quality machine work, new bearings/rings, and new 4.030" pistons.