Street LT1 rebuild
08-06-2009, 04:33 PM
#41
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700 dollars for a stroker kit is going to get you a bunch of cheap parts with questionable integrity.
It cost much more than 2000 dollars to build a reliable 355 with ported heads, cam, valve train, and supporting mods. I'd say about 2000 just for the bottom end with quality machine work, new bearings/rings, and new 4.030" pistons.
It cost much more than 2000 dollars to build a reliable 355 with ported heads, cam, valve train, and supporting mods. I'd say about 2000 just for the bottom end with quality machine work, new bearings/rings, and new 4.030" pistons.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-CH...QQcmdZViewItem
08-06-2009, 04:46 PM
#42
This is what I was going off of for the 383 kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-CH...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-CH...QQcmdZViewItem
Callies Compstar components are what I am going to use in my rotating assembly.
Ai has pretty good deals on rotating assemblies with callies components.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...sCompStar.html
08-06-2009, 06:52 PM
#44
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Alright guys.
My original budget is now kicked the **** out the window. I now have a budget of $1000 for the rotating assembly alone, is this realistic? I want to build a 383, I will have the cylinders bored and the block clearanced. I will still use the stock heads and cam for now (I need to pass emissions for California). This car will never see a shot of nitrous or any boost. I would like to leave the possibility of replacing the heads and cam in the future on the table.
This setup needs to be reasonably reliable for general street use. I don't need a forged rotating assembly that can handle 700hp+ just something that will run well with heads and cam in the future.
Will it help if I do some port work to the heads? What will that cost?
What is required to pass emissions?
This car needs to run on 91 octane pump gas.
Do I need to upgrade any other parts in my car to get this engine to run reliably?
My original budget is now kicked the **** out the window. I now have a budget of $1000 for the rotating assembly alone, is this realistic? I want to build a 383, I will have the cylinders bored and the block clearanced. I will still use the stock heads and cam for now (I need to pass emissions for California). This car will never see a shot of nitrous or any boost. I would like to leave the possibility of replacing the heads and cam in the future on the table.
This setup needs to be reasonably reliable for general street use. I don't need a forged rotating assembly that can handle 700hp+ just something that will run well with heads and cam in the future.
Will it help if I do some port work to the heads? What will that cost?
What is required to pass emissions?
This car needs to run on 91 octane pump gas.
Do I need to upgrade any other parts in my car to get this engine to run reliably?
08-06-2009, 06:56 PM
#45
Alright guys.
My original budget is now kicked the **** out the window. I now have a budget of $1000 for the rotating assembly alone, is this realistic? I want to build a 383, I will have the cylinders bored and the block clearanced. I will still use the stock heads and cam for now (I need to pass emissions for California). This car will never see a shot of nitrous or any boost. I would like to leave the possibility of replacing the heads and cam in the future on the table.
This setup needs to be reasonably reliable for general street use. I don't need a forged rotating assembly that can handle 700hp+ just something that will run well with heads and cam in the future.
Will it help if I do some port work to the heads? What will that cost?
What is required to pass emissions?
This car needs to run on 91 octane pump gas.
Do I need to upgrade any other parts in my car to get this engine to run reliably?
My original budget is now kicked the **** out the window. I now have a budget of $1000 for the rotating assembly alone, is this realistic? I want to build a 383, I will have the cylinders bored and the block clearanced. I will still use the stock heads and cam for now (I need to pass emissions for California). This car will never see a shot of nitrous or any boost. I would like to leave the possibility of replacing the heads and cam in the future on the table.
This setup needs to be reasonably reliable for general street use. I don't need a forged rotating assembly that can handle 700hp+ just something that will run well with heads and cam in the future.
Will it help if I do some port work to the heads? What will that cost?
What is required to pass emissions?
This car needs to run on 91 octane pump gas.
Do I need to upgrade any other parts in my car to get this engine to run reliably?
Where in CA? If you are anywhere near So Cal, what you need to do is keep your money in your pocket right now before we can have a long discussion and I can set you in the right direction. As it is now, you are still going about things *** backwards...
08-06-2009, 06:57 PM
#46
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No, not in my opinion. You can get some cheap stroker kits, but I wouldn't skimp on critical components.
Where in CA? If you are anywhere near So Cal, what you need to do is keep your money in your pocket right now before we can have a long discussion and I can set you in the right direction. As it is now, you are still going about things *** backwards...
Where in CA? If you are anywhere near So Cal, what you need to do is keep your money in your pocket right now before we can have a long discussion and I can set you in the right direction. As it is now, you are still going about things *** backwards...
08-06-2009, 07:02 PM
#47
Dang, too far to meet in person.
Here is my recommendation:
Find yourself a used low mileage short block. Should be able to find one for 750 or less. Take your heads you have now to a maching shop and have them clean them up, slight mill, 3-angle valve job, new valve seals. You can consider installing an emissions friendly cam while you are at it. Something like the CC305 will do you fine. That will require new springs and hardened pushrods at the minimum. Put it all back together and you'll be back on the road with a big smile on your face.
Here is my recommendation:
Find yourself a used low mileage short block. Should be able to find one for 750 or less. Take your heads you have now to a maching shop and have them clean them up, slight mill, 3-angle valve job, new valve seals. You can consider installing an emissions friendly cam while you are at it. Something like the CC305 will do you fine. That will require new springs and hardened pushrods at the minimum. Put it all back together and you'll be back on the road with a big smile on your face.
08-06-2009, 07:09 PM
#48
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Dang, too far to meet in person.
Here is my recommendation:
Find yourself a used low mileage short block. Should be able to find one for 750 or less. Take your heads you have now to a maching shop and have them clean them up, slight mill, 3-angle valve job, new valve seals. You can consider installing an emissions friendly cam while you are at it. Something like the CC305 will do you fine. That will require new springs and hardened pushrods at the minimum. Put it all back together and you'll be back on the road with a big smile on your face.
Here is my recommendation:
Find yourself a used low mileage short block. Should be able to find one for 750 or less. Take your heads you have now to a maching shop and have them clean them up, slight mill, 3-angle valve job, new valve seals. You can consider installing an emissions friendly cam while you are at it. Something like the CC305 will do you fine. That will require new springs and hardened pushrods at the minimum. Put it all back together and you'll be back on the road with a big smile on your face.
Too bad I didn't hear this sooner.
08-06-2009, 07:15 PM
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08-06-2009, 10:50 PM
#58
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I am taking my 47000 mile shortblock out as soon as my 383 is done and I live in Hanford right down the road from you, or I can point you towards the guy who is doing my machine work and is prices are VERY reasonable
