slp where are you...
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
slp where are you... ok the motor is for the most part together now except the radiator and the ac condensor. i tried to start it just to hear it start....well all it does is clicks. i checked the tps wires they are plugged in. i tapped on the starter... still clicks. i know the battery is junk but i have the booster connected to it on 200 amp engine start. still jsut clicks. btw the windows work great takes about 1 second to get them all the way down. any other suggestions?
ok the motor is for the most part together now except the radiator and the ac condensor. i tried to start it just to hear it start....well all it does is clicks. i checked the tps wires they are plugged in. i tapped on the starter... still clicks. i know the battery is junk but i have the booster connected to it on 200 amp engine start. still jsut clicks. btw the windows work great takes about 1 second to get them all the way down. any other suggestions?
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i tried the jumping the starter with a screwdriver i couldnt get to the other post but i got the bottom one and shorted it with the exhaust lots of spark and a clank. so i know the sol. is working... but it didnt spin just clank. i know the flywheel is fine. the car has sat for almost 2 years but when parked everything worked except the tranny and a severe intake leak
are there any other electrical plugs that have to be plugged in? im sure whatever it is im missing is simple to fix.
are there any other electrical plugs that have to be plugged in? im sure whatever it is im missing is simple to fix.
Are all the ground straps connected? Clean metal surfaces to connect with...no paint or anything impeding the flow of electricity? I had a case where I didn't get all the paint off of a ground strap wire connection to an accessory bracket I had painted and it did the same thing/tried to ground the starter through the tiny body ground strap on top of the motor to the firewall instead :-p Also, if the battery is totally garf, it may still not start even with the jump battery/start cart.
Not guaranteeing that a new battery will do it, just saying. Especially if you know the battery is junk, you might as well eliminate that variable. I would try and get the starter off and over to the auto store and have it tested while you are there.
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ok while we are at it. lets eliminate my next issue... how do you bleed the slave cylinder with it installed in the car? i had to replace mine after i barely pushed on it and it puked all the internals out and bent the little pushrod. now it wont gain pressure with the new one
nevermind... a different search term found what i was looking for on the slave... back off the car for the 454954758437 time
nevermind... a different search term found what i was looking for on the slave... back off the car for the 454954758437 time
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ok while we are at it. lets eliminate my next issue... how do you bleed the slave cylinder with it installed in the car? i had to replace mine after i barely pushed on it and it puked all the internals out and bent the little pushrod. now it wont gain pressure with the new one
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i got it bled... i unbolted it and let it hang and pushed the rod till i could barely push it hurts really bad but worked great i had to fill the resevoir twice in the process now clutch feels really tight again 
. and off to get the battery and the fiance so i can hear her bitch about me being on ls1tech again 
. and off to get the battery and the fiance so i can hear her bitch about me being on ls1tech again Thread Starter
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
new battery and its alive started right up but unfortunatly it was short lived with another intake manifold leak... i assume.... there is oil on the ground in front of the motor 
but unfortunatly it was short lived with another intake manifold leak... i assume.... there is oil on the ground in front of the motor