Guideplates GMPP or Comp or what
I have some stuff in a can called Kasenit that looks like grey powder iron particles but is really organic material. I heat the two slots up in guide plate up to cherry red with an oxy/acetylene torch and dip it in the Kasenit powder. This is repeated 3 times.
When the part is in the Kasenit it puts off an odor that smells exactly like cat **** and ammonia. This forces more carbon into the surface of the guide plate and makes it harder.
Once it has been in the Kasenit three times, it is heated again and dipped in water to quench it.
Wait a while then heat it again, put it in the powder. Heat a last time and dip it in the water.
When a file is drawn over the face it wont cut it at all. Before the process the file would easily cut the face. I cant say how much harder the plate is, but I am guess it is quite a bit harder than before.
Also if you try to scratch the two plates like with a punch awl, the non treated plates easily scratches deep and the treated plate does not leave a scratch or blemish.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-0271
I doubt that water only hardening would be sufficient.
My 2 cents.
10K miles later and still no wear on my guideplates. Here is a thread i started on CZ a long time ago about the subject:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...pushrod&page=3
When the part is in the Kasenit it puts off an odor that smells exactly like cat **** and ammonia. This forces more carbon into the surface of the guide plate and makes it harder.
Once it has been in the Kasenit three times, it is heated again and dipped in water to quench it.
Wait a while then heat it again, put it in the powder. Heat a last time and dip it in the water.
When a file is drawn over the face it wont cut it at all. Before the process the file would easily cut the face. I cant say how much harder the plate is, but I am guess it is quite a bit harder than before.
Also if you try to scratch the two plates like with a punch awl, the non treated plates easily scratches deep and the treated plate does not leave a scratch or blemish.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-0271
I doubt that water only hardening would be sufficient.
My 2 cents.
10K miles later and still no wear on my guideplates. Here is a thread i started on CZ a long time ago about the subject:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...pushrod&page=3
Last edited by wrd1972; Aug 13, 2009 at 08:15 PM.
I have some stuff in a can called Kasenit that looks like grey powder iron particles but is really organic material. I heat the two slots up in guide plate up to cherry red with an oxy/acetylene torch and dip it in the Kasenit powder. This is repeated 3 times.
When the part is in the Kasenit it puts off an odor that smells exactly like cat **** and ammonia. This forces more carbon into the surface of the guide plate and makes it harder.
Once it has been in the Kasenit three times, it is heated again and dipped in water to quench it.
Wait a while then heat it again, put it in the powder. Heat a last time and dip it in the water.
When a file is drawn over the face it wont cut it at all. Before the process the file would easily cut the face. I cant say how much harder the plate is, but I am guess it is quite a bit harder than before.
Also if you try to scratch the two plates like with a punch awl, the non treated plates easily scratches deep and the treated plate does not leave a scratch or blemish.
The kasenit is extremely hard to find now days, although there should be something similar to it which is more easily available. This process is normally done to harden tooling too BTW.
I doubt that water only hardening would be sufficient.
My 2 cents.
10K miles later and still no wear on my guideplates. Here is a thread i started on CZ a long time ago about the subject:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...pushrod&page=3
When the part is in the Kasenit it puts off an odor that smells exactly like cat **** and ammonia. This forces more carbon into the surface of the guide plate and makes it harder.
Once it has been in the Kasenit three times, it is heated again and dipped in water to quench it.
Wait a while then heat it again, put it in the powder. Heat a last time and dip it in the water.
When a file is drawn over the face it wont cut it at all. Before the process the file would easily cut the face. I cant say how much harder the plate is, but I am guess it is quite a bit harder than before.
Also if you try to scratch the two plates like with a punch awl, the non treated plates easily scratches deep and the treated plate does not leave a scratch or blemish.
The kasenit is extremely hard to find now days, although there should be something similar to it which is more easily available. This process is normally done to harden tooling too BTW.
I doubt that water only hardening would be sufficient.
My 2 cents.
10K miles later and still no wear on my guideplates. Here is a thread i started on CZ a long time ago about the subject:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...pushrod&page=3
Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Seems like a lot of trouble when I only gave $25 for the trickflows.
I have these GMPP's I would send someone for a few bucks if they want to see if theyre hardened. I have trickflowsa on the way
I have these GMPP's I would send someone for a few bucks if they want to see if theyre hardened. I have trickflowsa on the way
Yes. I just took the valve cover off to check what Comp Cams springs I have & noticed the #7 cylinder, the intake rocker will move side to side until the roller of the rocker is about half off the valve stem. So now what? Seems like alot are saying the Trick Flow units, or Isky adjustable ones. Anyone have part numbers?
Last edited by samckitt; Aug 24, 2009 at 08:12 PM.
