Head Porting - DIY
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I have seen all these bits at a DIY store here. I will need to get me a decent straight electric drill tool to use with variable speeds.
I won't remove the heads just yet, first get the tools, head gaskets and ARP bolts and then I will start work. Will let you guys know how it works.
I won't remove the heads just yet, first get the tools, head gaskets and ARP bolts and then I will start work. Will let you guys know how it works.
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Life here is quiet and simple. But the police are really onto us, they are everywhere pulling you over for just about anything. The main victims, thankfully, are the Honda boys haha
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There's some decent links in here. Vizard is usually pretty accurate with his information. Search on here and some other sites around the internet and you should get a general outline of how things work. Speedtalk is a very good technical source of information.
Here's a link to a write-up I did on LT1 heads about 9 years ago. This isn't my website, but they are my heads/pics/write-up info. There's probably better info out there these days but maybe you can get something out of it. The pictures show red "x's" but they'll pop up if you click on them. Also, you have to click on "head porting" on the left to access the write-up.
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/
Mike
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/
Mike
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From: Bahrain
Thanks bro, thanks everyone for helping out.
I don't usually take pictures of my work, but I will try to make a progress thread with all the work.
Could you help me out with a list of the tools you used? What stones and bits?
I don't usually take pictures of my work, but I will try to make a progress thread with all the work.
Could you help me out with a list of the tools you used? What stones and bits?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...6k-beware.html
Mike
Thats really good work. What gaskets did you use for the intake and exhaust?
I ordered http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-66031/ for the headers and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-MS95580/ for the intake.
I ordered http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-66031/ for the headers and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-MS95580/ for the intake.
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Just bringing this thread back to life. I did a couple of intake ports lastnight. I just blended the dividers straight, removed the steps at the edges, and the big beafy parts I blended back and squared with the gasket but I maintained the curve for the airflow.
I am just doing a clean up, nothing too radical because I don't know the limits of how much I can remove.
Will try to post some pics later today.
I am just doing a clean up, nothing too radical because I don't know the limits of how much I can remove.
Will try to post some pics later today.
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I have a feeling I am doing something wrong with the outer walls of the parts, like they should rather be straight instead of curved?
Please excuse the photo quality, will try to get better ones.
Please excuse the photo quality, will try to get better ones.
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From: Born/Raised North East, MD Lived in VA, NC, MI Back in Yorktown, Va
in my opinion i would just work on the inside of the ports with the grinder. untill its flat and smoooth. or just leave it and make sure its smooth
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I am more concerned about the outer walls of the ports.
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The outer walls of the port are not as high flowing an area as the inside walls (at least near the intake face and down to the valve guide). Also, the tops of the port see more air than the floors. You also want to widen the port on either side of the valve guide boss (smooth the boss down some) to give the air enough room as it navigates around the valve stem and the guide boss. The area under the valves (valve throat) should be about 80% the size of the valve. For a typical street motor, you will see the biggest impact from
1) Valve Job
2) blending valve job into chamber and unshrouding the valve at the chamber wall
3) Bowl area (directly under the valve)
4) Valve guide area and short turn (the floor as it turns into the bowl)
5) Lastly, the pushrod pinch point
I have only done a few sets of heads and never any LT stuff. I rely on David Vizard books. He has a really good one on modifying small block chevy cylinder heads. Lots of really good illustrations of port shapes (you may be able to find those pictures on the internet). Pick it up if you can!
1) Valve Job
2) blending valve job into chamber and unshrouding the valve at the chamber wall
3) Bowl area (directly under the valve)
4) Valve guide area and short turn (the floor as it turns into the bowl)
5) Lastly, the pushrod pinch point
I have only done a few sets of heads and never any LT stuff. I rely on David Vizard books. He has a really good one on modifying small block chevy cylinder heads. Lots of really good illustrations of port shapes (you may be able to find those pictures on the internet). Pick it up if you can!