1st fire up after cam swap
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Ok man this is how I adjusted my rockers after a COMP rocker stud change, (cheap china made stud broke after I got the car...) So, I would bump over the motor and find which rocker was loose and I would tighten until the slack (from side to side) was gone. (It takes a little while, yes, but my car is running fine, and have no lifter noise still for 2 months now LOL) Also my socket was too thick so when I tried to adjust the rockers with the car running it would kind of bogg down, and it would be hard to get my socket out, so believe it or not, I adjusted mine with the engine not running, so it can be done 
. Point being, none of the rockers are supposed to be loose... So just keep bumping the motor over and adjusting until the slack is all out of them, and run it for a few minutes, the adjust them again. If that doesnt work then sounds like you are off a tooth on your timing gear. 
. Point being, none of the rockers are supposed to be loose... So just keep bumping the motor over and adjusting until the slack is all out of them, and run it for a few minutes, the adjust them again. If that doesnt work then sounds like you are off a tooth on your timing gear. 
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Kempner, TX
Once you set the lifter preload and the engine fires, it'll probably go through "teething pains" and will probably need playing with the throttle to keep it running, especially at low RPMs. This is normal; I just went through it with my son's 96 LT1 cam and head swap.
A PCM tune will cure this, but unless or until you have it done, you'll probably have to manually raise the idle RPMs. How much depends on the cam and other engine mods, but somewhere in the range of 850 RPMs should work to keep the engine running in gear, foot on brake conditions.
In the past I've just folded a piece of a match book cover (paper) or something similar and placed it at the throttle body lever to keep the idle UP as a temporary way to keep the engine running while it warms up.
WATCH YOUR OIL PRESSURE AND COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIKE A HAWK!
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
A PCM tune will cure this, but unless or until you have it done, you'll probably have to manually raise the idle RPMs. How much depends on the cam and other engine mods, but somewhere in the range of 850 RPMs should work to keep the engine running in gear, foot on brake conditions.
In the past I've just folded a piece of a match book cover (paper) or something similar and placed it at the throttle body lever to keep the idle UP as a temporary way to keep the engine running while it warms up.
WATCH YOUR OIL PRESSURE AND COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIKE A HAWK!
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
If you installed the cam with dot to dot (12 o'clock on the crank gear and 6 o'clock on the cam gear) and the dowel pin was at 3 o'clock, you did it RIGHT.
If BOTH dots were at the 12 o'clock position, then the dowel pin should have been at the 9 o'clock position.
As long as you selected the correct hole in the OPTI for the dowel pin, you're good to go. If the OPTI had been incorrectly installed the engine would either NOT run at all or BACK-FIRE like crazy; most likely the former.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
If BOTH dots were at the 12 o'clock position, then the dowel pin should have been at the 9 o'clock position.
As long as you selected the correct hole in the OPTI for the dowel pin, you're good to go. If the OPTI had been incorrectly installed the engine would either NOT run at all or BACK-FIRE like crazy; most likely the former.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Once you set the lifter preload and the engine fires, it'll probably go through "teething pains" and will probably need playing with the throttle to keep it running, especially at low RPMs. This is normal; I just went through it with my son's 96 LT1 cam and head swap.
A PCM tune will cure this, but unless or until you have it done, you'll probably have to manually raise the idle RPMs. How much depends on the cam and other engine mods, but somewhere in the range of 850 RPMs should work to keep the engine running in gear, foot on brake conditions.
In the past I've just folded a piece of a match book cover (paper) or something similar and placed it at the throttle body lever to keep the idle UP as a temporary way to keep the engine running while it warms up.
WATCH YOUR OIL PRESSURE AND COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIKE A HAWK!
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
A PCM tune will cure this, but unless or until you have it done, you'll probably have to manually raise the idle RPMs. How much depends on the cam and other engine mods, but somewhere in the range of 850 RPMs should work to keep the engine running in gear, foot on brake conditions.
In the past I've just folded a piece of a match book cover (paper) or something similar and placed it at the throttle body lever to keep the idle UP as a temporary way to keep the engine running while it warms up.
WATCH YOUR OIL PRESSURE AND COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIKE A HAWK!
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
alright I think I'm on to something, I stuck my finger in #1's spark plug hole and rotated the crank until the air wasn't squeezing by my finger and the mark on the hub I was using for TDC was at 9o'clock and not 12. I don't know how its possible but its not where I put it when I put it on w/ it @ 12 w/ #6 TDC. I know you guys told me to confirm that earlier but I just ASSumed it wasn't possible. I'll re-djust the valves to that and check back in.
well it fired right up but was running rough again and started stumbling so I went to give it some gas on the TB and when my hand got close to the rubber intake boot I started getting shocked. is this a ground problem? the only ones I took off were the two on the coil and they both go back onto the right mount bolt for the coil right?
jeez 5 posts in a row now.. anyways
I'm stumped again.. this makes no sense! I had a plug wire that wasn't quite on all the way so I fixed that and now it won't fire up again! it just cranks the then when I stop cranking it it will turn over a few more times.
do I have these grounds right? if its hard to tell I put the double one on first then the single one. I also pulled that pig tail back out because its was suspected to be for the AIR pump but never positively confirmed.
I triple checked the wire connections and order. ...don't know what else to do
I'm stumped again.. this makes no sense! I had a plug wire that wasn't quite on all the way so I fixed that and now it won't fire up again! it just cranks the then when I stop cranking it it will turn over a few more times.
do I have these grounds right? if its hard to tell I put the double one on first then the single one. I also pulled that pig tail back out because its was suspected to be for the AIR pump but never positively confirmed.
I triple checked the wire connections and order. ...don't know what else to do
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alright I think I'm on to something, I stuck my finger in #1's spark plug hole and rotated the crank until the air wasn't squeezing by my finger and the mark on the hub I was using for TDC was at 9o'clock and not 12. I don't know how its possible but its not where I put it when I put it on w/ it @ 12 w/ #6 TDC. I know you guys told me to confirm that earlier but I just ASSumed it wasn't possible. I'll re-djust the valves to that and check back in.
BECAUSE when the intake rocker closes the piston is still at the bottom of the stroke. obviously you dont want the piston to push the air/gas out of the engine. So when you tried the other method of putting your finger in the hole you actually found TDC at the right time which would put your mark at 9 when it shouldve been at 12.
make sense??
alright i may have an idea what you did. when you went to adjust rockers the first time you were looking at rocker position to determin TDC blah blah blah.... all fine, you marked the hub when the the intake valve came all the way up. It does take another 1/4 turn of the crank after the intake rocker comes up to be in the correct position for adjusting
BECAUSE when the intake rocker closes the piston is still at the bottom of the stroke. obviously you dont want the piston to push the air/gas out of the engine. So when you tried the other method of putting your finger in the hole you actually found TDC at the right time which would put your mark at 9 when it shouldve been at 12.
make sense??
BECAUSE when the intake rocker closes the piston is still at the bottom of the stroke. obviously you dont want the piston to push the air/gas out of the engine. So when you tried the other method of putting your finger in the hole you actually found TDC at the right time which would put your mark at 9 when it shouldve been at 12.
make sense??
ok so I've been going over everything..again, and noticed another questionable thing on top of those^^ grounds. I noticed a pic of the EVAP system on shbox's site doesn't match mine>
he has the same type of tube coming out the bottom nipple as he does the top one while I have a rubber hose going into it from the EVAP solenoid, which I had asked about earlier on and got this answer>
I just assumed SSR was mistaken saying that the rubber hose does not plug into anything, does it or don't it plug into the intake mani? cause here>
http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg
it says the bottom nipple plugs into the plastic line bundled w/ the fuel lines..but that goes to the evap solenoid.. I wouldn't suspect this is actually the root of my problems, but I'm running out of ideas.
he has the same type of tube coming out the bottom nipple as he does the top one while I have a rubber hose going into it from the EVAP solenoid, which I had asked about earlier on and got this answer>
That is the purge solenoid for your evap system. The tube on the left goes into a line which comes out of your drivers fender. The plastic tube goes under your TB and the solenoid goes to a mount on your passenger side bolted to the intake. There is then a plug that is located on part of the harness cluster on the passenger side. The rubber hose on the solenoid does not plug into anything.
http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg
it says the bottom nipple plugs into the plastic line bundled w/ the fuel lines..but that goes to the evap solenoid.. I wouldn't suspect this is actually the root of my problems, but I'm running out of ideas.
well I got it running again but it doesn't want to rev over 1k if that gives anyone some ideas..? hoping I don't have to tear back into the internals just to check my work which I don't think is wrong..
the one line goes to the evap canister. (the plastic thing that goes under the throttle body to the bundle of fuel lines). the other line on that solenoid goes to the middle port on the throttle body. then on the bottom of that solenoid is a very small rubber hose. thats is a vent and doesnt plug into anything
the one line goes to the evap canister. (the plastic thing that goes under the throttle body to the bundle of fuel lines). the other line on that solenoid goes to the middle port on the throttle body. then on the bottom of that solenoid is a very small rubber hose. thats is a vent and doesnt plug into anything
the vent line is literally a 1in piece of hose w/ a 90* bend. it doesnt connect to anyhting. It really isnt anything to worry about. What do you mean the bottom port on the intake? do you mean on the throttle body? if thats the case you have it on the wrong one. the bottom port is for the coolant that flows through the throttle. i believe you did the bypass so that will just remain un-pluggled.
you need the evap hose connected to the middle port. the top one is for that tube that connects to the top of the valve cover
the vent line is literally a 1in piece of hose w/ a 90* bend. it doesnt connect to anyhting. It really isnt anything to worry about. What do you mean the bottom port on the intake? do you mean on the throttle body? if thats the case you have it on the wrong one. the bottom port is for the coolant that flows through the throttle. i believe you did the bypass so that will just remain un-pluggled.
you need the evap hose connected to the middle port. the top one is for that tube that connects to the top of the valve cover
you need the evap hose connected to the middle port. the top one is for that tube that connects to the top of the valve cover
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Kempner, TX
I have to admit that I gave up on you once I saw that you are still checking for TDC, where the hub is pointing, etc. when trying to set the lifter preload.
As I wrote before, using the method that most, if not all, of the cam companies, Tech writers, PROs, etc., use on Chevy engines does NOT involve anything dealing with TDC.
Also, it doesn't involve setting the preload on one lifter on the driver's side then going over to the other side of the engine to set one over there.
Haven't you ever watched the guys with REALLY fast cars go through their valves between rounds at the track? Yes, they're setting LASH not preload, but the the procedure is the same. Watch the intake to set the exhaust, then watch the exhaust to set the intake. The IC/EO method.
I've tried to help, but it seems you've chosen your own, different method. Sorry, I've done the best I can do, so I'll just leave it for you and the other members to work out.
"Lead a horse to water but can't make it drink" comes to mind.
Good Luck to you.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
As I wrote before, using the method that most, if not all, of the cam companies, Tech writers, PROs, etc., use on Chevy engines does NOT involve anything dealing with TDC.
Also, it doesn't involve setting the preload on one lifter on the driver's side then going over to the other side of the engine to set one over there.
Haven't you ever watched the guys with REALLY fast cars go through their valves between rounds at the track? Yes, they're setting LASH not preload, but the the procedure is the same. Watch the intake to set the exhaust, then watch the exhaust to set the intake. The IC/EO method.
I've tried to help, but it seems you've chosen your own, different method. Sorry, I've done the best I can do, so I'll just leave it for you and the other members to work out.
"Lead a horse to water but can't make it drink" comes to mind.
Good Luck to you.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
I have to admit that I gave up on you once I saw that you are still checking for TDC, where the hub is pointing, etc. when trying to set the lifter preload.
As I wrote before, using the method that most, if not all, of the cam companies, Tech writers, PROs, etc., use on Chevy engines does NOT involve anything dealing with TDC.
Also, it doesn't involve setting the preload on one lifter on the driver's side then going over to the other side of the engine to set one over there.
Haven't you ever watched the guys with REALLY fast cars go through their valves between rounds at the track? Yes, they're setting LASH not preload, but the the procedure is the same. Watch the intake to set the exhaust, then watch the exhaust to set the intake. The IC/EO method.
I've tried to help, but it seems you've chosen your own, different method. Sorry, I've done the best I can do, so I'll just leave it for you and the other members to work out.
"Lead a horse to water but can't make it drink" comes to mind.
Good Luck to you.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
As I wrote before, using the method that most, if not all, of the cam companies, Tech writers, PROs, etc., use on Chevy engines does NOT involve anything dealing with TDC.
Also, it doesn't involve setting the preload on one lifter on the driver's side then going over to the other side of the engine to set one over there.
Haven't you ever watched the guys with REALLY fast cars go through their valves between rounds at the track? Yes, they're setting LASH not preload, but the the procedure is the same. Watch the intake to set the exhaust, then watch the exhaust to set the intake. The IC/EO method.
I've tried to help, but it seems you've chosen your own, different method. Sorry, I've done the best I can do, so I'll just leave it for you and the other members to work out.
"Lead a horse to water but can't make it drink" comes to mind.
Good Luck to you.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
edit:some one else asked me to make another vid while tryin to rev it up, I was hitting the gas the entire video and it still stalled on me, also it only revved to 1k for a few seconds on the 2nd start up while having my foot to the floor.
Last edited by z_speedfreak; Aug 23, 2009 at 04:52 PM.