try a different OSU. i bought one for my car because mine was reading a little low (trans shop put one in after they broke it) and the one i got from AZ was pure JUNK. every time i let off the gas under 20mph it would immediatly drop to 0 and throw a CG light. i was sitting at a light with absolutely no oil pressure on the gauge. i put the other one back in and it was a lot better (around 10-12psi at hot idle) and even then i still think that gauge reads low since i never had a single oil pressure problem until the trans shop broke my original OSU and replaced it.

 

So you think it may be the oil sending unit as well. i did get it from the zone although it's brand new it is from the zone. maybe I should look into a new one. How hard is it going to be to change with the intake on the motor considering it's behind the intake under the dash?????

 

its not as bad as i thought it would be. there is a socket you need and a 6 inch extension (or 12 i don't remember) and you access it from the drivers side.

 

So you fell I'll be good with a mail order tune from mad Z28 or mad tuner now, Ion Sultan! Good guy to work with for sure. I should be good with this tune right for the WOT???? I'm sure a dyno tune would be better for sure although pricey at the moment! I'm sure I can pick up some more #'s with a dyno tune for sure!

 

Modified socket or a particulat size. When I installe the motor I removed and installed it with an adjustable whrench. I'm sure it's a pain in the ***. I can't get my forarms under the intake and dash without scrapping and scrathing the **** out of them. Big for arm's I guess or not enough room, lol! See what weights do for you! Not allow you to install spark plugs and OSU's!!!!

 

its a socket you buy. i think you can just tell them you need the oil sending unit socket for an LT1 and they have it.

 

Get rid of that Fram filter, they are junk. Get a Mobil 1 or K&N oil filter.


Nick

 

I was agreeing with the pressure sensor untill you said one thing....."the pressure drops under acceleration". Lets run a quick check list on this thing:

1. Is the oil pan full of oil or is it low on oil. I have seen motors that suck air and loose oil pressure under acceleration becuase of this.
2. When the oil pump pick up was installed was it measured to be 1/4" off the bottom of the pan or so and was it either bolted or welded in place
3. PUT A MECHANICAL GAUGE ON IT!!!--- Do this immediatly before you even think about starting it up again. No oil pressure will destroy a motor in a matter of seconds and then you have a nice looking paper weight.
4. Did you mess with the pressure spring when you installed the pump or did you just take it out of the box and install it.
5. Do you have any type of excessive lifter noise (Ticking, clicking, sewing machine noise)?
6. How did your machine shop clearance the engine, did you check the clearances upon assembly? Is 5w30 enough? What did the machine shop recommend to run for oil?

Also as for the fram oil filter, I have one on my 600+hp 8000rpm 385c.i. LT1 that I beat the **** out of on the street and the track. I also have one on my 06 GTO and my pickup truck. This cannot be cuased by an oil filter. Even if the filter was clogged the bypass would turn on and you would have higher oil pressure! K&N filters cost double the price because they say K&N on them and can actually clog easier becuase they filter such small particles and then the bypass will enable and you wont even be filtering any oil! Again from one LT1 guy to another put a mechanical gauge on it before you even think about sticking the key in the ignition again.

 

I must have missed the part about it dropping under accel, could be the pick up tube fell off. Mine is welded to the pump !!!
I wouldnt drive it untill you get the mechanical gauge on it! If that checks out ok, get Napa or GM sensors. Once thats taken care of get that bitch on the street and let it rip.
Seriously I had mine WOT within 2 miles and within 50 it was already on the dyno.
I also used 15w45 Rotella for break in and Im still using it. Im sure that helps keep pressure up a bit and Rotella is suppossed to be great oil.

 

Well I had the machine shop install the oil pump and he told me that he welded the pickup for the proper clearance. He had my oil pan, new timing chain set and all of my internals, and returned a short block to me. I will be installing a mechanical guage on it when I get back home for sure. Where's everyone buying this from???? The oil is right at the max peak as far as level and it's still clean as hell. I'm running 5w30 gastrol for my break in. I plan to switch to royal purple or AEMS oil after break in but some folks are making it out to be like I'm ready for WOT! I have right about 150 miles on it. The machinist did gap my rings for 150 shot! This was crucial information from what he said! I have no noise from the valve train. I'm running comp promag's NSA and guide plates and I adjusted right at 3/4 turn! Seems to be a perfect adjustement considering I've heard to go 1/2 to 1 full turn. Not sure guys. I really can't imagine that the pump being bad as much as I can for see the OSU being bad. I'll be changing that out as well since it was from the zone. Hopefully I can get this problem solved because this is the last thing I want to worry about. I also don't think my fans are coming on either but my temp stays right at about 175.....Are my fans not coming on because I completly removed all a/c and heat components from under the dash. would any of this take an effect on the fans because I heard something about turning on the a/c to ge the fans to come on all though my **** is gutted! Just curious! Thanks for the input guys!

 

Hope it aint a burned bearing or excess bearing clearances. That will be bad.

I have between 25-30 at idle and plenty at all RPMs with my 355 while on 5w30.

 

yeah i missed it too. mine most certainly rises with acceleration.

 

I agree. Get a mech. gauge and Auto Zone sells junk.

 

You are ready for WOT once you get the oiling issue figured out IMO. If something mechanical inside is gonna break, its gonna break regaurdless and 99% of guys like to seat the rings hard.

 

I would say 1/2 turn is max on promags. 1/8-1/2 max is always what Ive been told.
I have heard 1/2-1 turn on factory rockers is fine since the stamped rocker have more give to them.
With that said mine are 1/4 turn past 0 lash.

 

Do you think I should loosen them and then re adjust for a 1/4 turn after zero lash. Is my **** to tight. If they are to tight then the valves would be opening faster and not closing all the way correct? Would I be able to tell if I had them to tight. Didn't really seam to tight. I can still wiggle them a tad bit by hand with no load.....Zero lash is right when the pushrod stops turning in your fingers when your just starting to tighten them up correct....I did no preload or anything like that. Just pushrod stopped turning and then added 3/4 turn! Cranked right up just fine and i have no noises what's so ever! As for the bearing thing goes. All new bearings where installed of course , when I cut open my 2 filters I seen nothing out of the norm. Some metal shavings but NO copper looking shavings. I was told that this would be an indication of bearing failure....

 

zero lash is the instant the PR has no up or down play and you just start to feel some resistance while spinning them by finger. If you tightened them untill you couldnt spin them by hand anymore and then an extra 3/4 turn Id say thats too much. If it will beak anything Im not sure, might cause alot of valve float

 

I just tightened the nut down by hand while I was spinning the PR and then it had enough pressure to where there was drag on it more or less than added 3/4 turn...I just talked to the machinist for 45 minutes about all comments, questions and concerns. They told me that I was good with the 3/4 turn and in fact I could actually go another 1/4 and be perfectly fine. The stated that with my setup that my adjustment should be pretty much spot on.

Then to the oil matter! They said as well to go with a mechanical guage first thing due to electronic guage failure possibilities. They have seen this as well. The also recommended the next step would be to swap out the oil sending unit....Worst case scenario the pump may be bad but doubt full. I asked about the bearings as well and they told me they used H series race bearings and that I would diffently be able to tell if I had those going bad. Since there a harder bearing that I would see junks more or less rather than shavings from initial start up. They said if I didn't have much in the first 2 filters that it wasn't bearings. I'll be back next month I said I'll bring a my filter to them and they will cut it open with this machine and they'll take a look. With no noises or anything acting up they said it's diffently not bearings. So it's a waiting game. Where is everyone installing these mecahnical guages both on the motor and in there cars????? pictures would be great, I love new ideas. Plus not sure exactly where to install or where every one ran them to! Where exactly on the motor? i was thinking about installing it in the council by the cigeratte lighter, that gapping hole. Id have to modify a little wall/plate thingy but ideas are great.. thanks guys

 

my new 358 has 80 miles on it ,im runnin rotella 15-40 with a delco filter .cold im runnin 75-80 lbs of pressure ,warmed up in gear at idle im at 40 w.o.t it goes to 85 im runnin the clevite 77 series bearing with a 2 thou clearance wit a melling stand volume stan pressure pump i started hammerin on it after 50 miles and so far pressure is the same as it was new .like stated before do a mech test on it only real way to see what its doin ,get rid of the fram filter on more than one occasion at the shop we have done a l.o.f wit a fram "as it was late and thats all we could get " we had no pressure switch to a purolator or other and it was fine .i would also try a thicker oil in it depending on the air temp and how hard ya drive

 

I wish i had your oil pressure! i have the same clearance as far as bearings go and I have the same exact pump. I was told that high volume pumps aren't all there cracked upto be.....I'll swap the filter and change the oil to something a little better quality and maybe go thicker but first thing is the guage. It could be as simple as a faulty guage.....It seemed to be liek this prior to my rebuild as well. My oil pressure was always shitty.....Hopefully this will fix my problem.....So lookign at shbox's pics I see there is a nipple/plug that can be removed right above the oil filter that can have a 1/4 in adapter installed and run the guage from there. Now where in the car is the question and what kind of guage since it will be permanent I doubt wnat a cheap looking junk one? What's everyone using! Autometer good or what, I see them on summit but i'm sure napa as them!