LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Time for a new short block.

Old Sep 6, 2009 | 08:25 AM
  #21  
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WOW, that sucks man...

At least it didn't happen at the beginning of the season, you got to enjoy it for the summer.

I do hope that if it happens to me though, it looks as good as that does. Talk about a pile of scrap...
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:20 AM
  #22  
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Ouch, that's some pretty impressive carnage. I wouldn't blame the manufacturers either though, you knew you were using it past its ratings but it was nice while it lasted!

FWIW scat cast is even weaker and is rated less then the eagle cast...the only cast crank I would use is the good 'ol stocker - its stronger then the aftermarket cast stuff
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:41 AM
  #23  
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Yeah, I'm pretty bummed out about breaking it but, I was using it beyond its' ratings. I'm definitley going all forged this time and I'm probably going to spray a 200 shot and go for some 9 sec passes. I always hear that Eagle is junk but I had around 1500.00 in this bottom end including all new parts and assembly. I beat on it hard for 4 years. I've been shifting at over 6600 the entire time. I think I got my money's worth out of it. I definitley have some great carnage in the trophy case. My dad told me if you're going to have a car and drag race it, this **** happens. I've seen expensive parts on the track and I've seen cheap parts. It's just a matter of time.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #24  
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Look at the other stuff it damaged, the almost $400 cam, the valves etc.. This cost you a LOT more than the initial build. It would be one thing if it had just taken out the rotating parts. Sounds like the only unscathed part was the intake.

Going cheap almost always cost more in the end.

In just the money lost on the cam you could have gotten a forged crank.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #25  
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Check the opti. That sucks, time to go bigger and better.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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Dude that sucks, but it makes me glad I didn't order the 383 kit I was going to.

So for the new build are you going to stay 383 or go 396 or 355? Good luck on it, hopefully you can get it back together soon. I know when mine blew up I sunk ALOT of money into it, but I needed everything, my car was bone stock. I'm actually going to talk to a guy tomorrow about a long block for a new build. I personally love building motors, but hate spending the money LOL

Keep us updated though, I always like seeing build threads
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #27  
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after 4 years of abuse i'd expect something to let go, but not the crank. apparently it's not a great piece to start with. good pics and info.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #28  
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So what your pics are saying is that I should used forged scat bottom end instead of eagle? lol
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by marc97taws6
So what your pics are saying is that I should used forged scat bottom end instead of eagle? lol
You should use forged over cast anything in a high performance build. Both forged offerings would suffice. Only cast crank I would trust north of 500 flywheel is the stocker...

Cast scat is rated like 475 and cast eagle like 500 - both flywheel. He was over that and abused it for a while! I'm surprised a 1500 rebuild held together for 4 years to be honest

I'm sure he'll be back a lot stronger and a lot faster!
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Turnin20s
Dude that sucks, but it makes me glad I didn't order the 383 kit I was going to.

So for the new build are you going to stay 383 or go 396 or 355? Good luck on it, hopefully you can get it back together soon. I know when mine blew up I sunk ALOT of money into it, but I needed everything, my car was bone stock. I'm actually going to talk to a guy tomorrow about a long block for a new build. I personally love building motors, but hate spending the money LOL

Keep us updated though, I always like seeing build threads
I'm going 383, just like before. Just stronger parts. I'm probably going to run an auto with a stall instead of a 6 speed. I hate to spend the money though.

Originally Posted by Puck
You should use forged over cast anything in a high performance build. Both forged offerings would suffice. Only cast crank I would trust north of 500 flywheel is the stocker...

Cast scat is rated like 475 and cast eagle like 500 - both flywheel. He was over that and abused it for a while! I'm surprised a 1500 rebuild held together for 4 years to be honest
I'm sure he'll be back a lot stronger and a lot faster!
11.0's, 10.90's on motor and 9's on the juice. I can't wait till it's finished. It's definitley going to be alot faster. I built the motor when I was 18 and the only throttle I knew was full throttle.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #31  
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From looking at the rod with just a wrist pin attached, I would suspect a piston failure started the chain of events.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 02:16 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by fergymoto
Joe, I hope you aren't referring to the crank in your new motor! Are you?
Dear lord no...hahah! I have a forged Ohio crank in it now.

The Eagle cast junk that broke came out of the block I bought prior to my build.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #33  
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ill bet track clean up took forever. lol!!
Did you already start the new build?
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #34  
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Sounds like a mild build
I was just wondering who built that motor pm me if you want.
I have an eagle crank and have about 200 10 second N/A passes on it and have had zero problems with it(I shift at 7200 also).You might have got some used parts put in it

Last edited by Dave J; Sep 7, 2009 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #35  
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This is what happens when you try and outrun the Trans Am.. J/K it will be better than ever before you know it!!

Yea track clean up SUCKED!! We were the very FIRST race of the night there was a diesel truck thing going on so it was really crowded...after this pass the track was down about an hour to clean up...they weren't real happy I assume...

Dave J.....is your eagle crank cast or forged? This was a cast crank in his motor... I will let him go into detail about who built it if he wants...I don't think he minds saying but I will let him...the motor has been a great motor with TONS of passes and street fun! He got his money worth for sure!

I owe you for helping me so much with my build so I will do whatever I can to hook you up!!
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #36  
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The autopsy report says... dammit more money! I'll have to recommend Ohio 4340 forged cranks, and Rods. I spent $475 on my 3.75 crank and $369 on the forged h-beams. They fillet the journals and will bob weight the crank. They will also balance out the crank for free if it's too far out. I also used KB forged aluminum pistons for $329 with coated skirts.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:49 PM
  #37  
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I have a 4 bolt main for sale.....$200 bare block
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:51 PM
  #38  
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sweet jesus that is awesome. well not necessarily for you but good god i've never seen that happen before. that's insane! goodluck on the new build.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #39  
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i feel bad for ya man. ill sell you the stock block out of my 96 for 100. if you want it. maybe that will help ya. good luck if you need any lt1 parts in fl let me know ill set you up with my buddy that owns a huge salvage yard in fruitland park area.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #40  
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damn that is some sweet carnage. should have splayed 4 bolt mains
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