bowtie_racer

I went to the track tonight, and im very disappointed! I couldnt launch at all, it kept bogging and spinning (i was on street tires) my 60 ft times were about 2.4 or higher and I could only run a best of 14.9 at 94 mph. Pretty pathetic for having longtubes y pipe and exhaust, with a short throw, and a different MAF. Not exactly sure where I was shfting either, the previous owner apparently thought it would be a great idea to put in white face gauges and not mark where the needles are so the tach and speedo are off. I need to have it tuned not sure if the previous owner ever did with what has been done to it. I ran 3 times after that I was so disgusted I just left.
__________________

86formula

iTrader: (3)

id throw the stock MAF back in, and no one expects you to be a pro driver your first time out with a stick car, my buddy cuts low 1.8s on street tires but hes been at it for a long time

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

Practice, practice, practice.. oh and get a tune first and your speedo problem figured out. You need to know where you are shifting!

bowtie_racer

Yeah I have heard about the MAF thing, I dont have a stock one, when I bought it, it had this one in it. Where would you reccomend getting a tune from?

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

For just bolt-ons, I'd say pcm4less. For anything more than that, dyno tune at SpeedInc. Just my opinion though

bowtie_racer

I found a stock MAF to replace the junk aftermarket one, would you recommend descreening it or putting ported ends on it?

WhitePhoenix99

iTrader: (12)

Don't worry about descreening it. Just throw the stocker back on. As far as your et's, what rpms were you launching at?

edit- Reread your first post. You really need to fix your needles so you can read where your rpms are.

tbag_skywalker

There's your problem right there. How do you expect to run a fast time without a properly functioning tach?!? For all you know you could have been shifting at 5000RPMs.

Forget the MAF for now, because I'm sure its not hindering you that much. Get your guages straightened out and spin that V8 to 6000RPMs down the track and you should be atleast a full second faster.

In the long run though, your car would definately run better and make a little more power if you put a stock MAF back in and get a tune from someone like PCMforless.com or MadTuner.com

Smoke Em

what kind of maf sensor do you have?? if its a granatelli thats not junk, just to let you know
dont be switching them back and forth because the computer will need time to learn the maf, its gonna run poorly once you first put it in but it will get better,

but first like everyone else said get the important stuff fixed first like the guages

bowtie_racer

The MAF is a Team Performance SS (whatever the Hell that is!) Im not sure how I can fix the gauges, I will probably just end up buying a tach, I know when I went through the traps I was at the end of 3rd gear with 3.42s

94Z28rag

iTrader: (10)

Your MPH is way off meaning you're either off power-wise a lot or you're short shifting it bigtime.

bowtie_racer

What could be my problem power wise, I was thinking I might need O2s, I have already bought wires (that still need to be put on) and I'm gonna get new plugs(not sure what kind to get) I also need a CAI, when I bought it, it had the stock airbox with a K&N in it.

Smoke Em

your naming all these things that it needs and really it may not need anything
get the tach fixed first before you do anything!!!!!!!

bowtie_racer

Not sure how I can fix it! I will just have to get one and put it in somewhere, I know it shows redline before 5500, will it be ok up to 6000 like people are suggesting?

tbag_skywalker

A 5500RPM redline?? Thats odd, if I recall correctly every LT1 F-body I've seen including my Trans Am have a 5750RPM redline. I wonder what the heck kind of white aftermarket bezel the previous owner put in there... because LT1s definately rev higher than 5500RPMs stock.

When my car was stock I shifted at redline, but when I put headers on I sort of figured they would shift my powerband up a tad, so I started shifting around 5900/6000RPMs. Not sure how much difference this made versus shifting at 5750RPMs but the car seemed to pull hard right to 6000.

And also... if I recall correctly, a stock LT1 rotating assembly can handle up 6500RPMs. I wouldn't suggest spinning that high unless you've got an upgraded vavetrain that won't float or break and a cam/heads setup that would demand that many RPMs. But with Long Tube headers, shifting at or close to 6000RPMs wont hurt anything.

bowtie_racer

[QUOTE=tbag_skywalker;12299724]A 5500RPM redline?? Thats odd, if I recall correctly every LT1 F-body I've seen including my Trans Am have a 5750RPM redline. I wonder what the heck kind of white aftermarket bezel the previous owner put in there... because LT1s definately rev higher than 5500RPMs stock.

Yeah i just went out and looked at them, it shows redline at 5200 RPM.

Smoke Em

well thats one problem, 5200 is way low, even though mines an a4 it doesnt shift until 6 grand

tbag_skywalker

Well I guess you learn something new everyday. Was it maybe the 93-95 LT1 cars had 5200rpm redlines? And the OBDII cars got 5750? I checked my Trans Am and its 5750. Maybe when they switched over to OBDII and slapped on the dual catalytic converters in '96, they may have slightly changed the cam profile to yield the extra 10hp (275hp vs 285hp). This could possibley be what demands the extra RPMs to make that bit more power.

Hopefully somebody like shbox or one of the other regulars will chime in with some concrete facts.

One thing I'm sure of, is that you can easily spin past 5200RPMs in order to run a faster track time. A properly running LT1 M6 with Long Tubes should easily be able to run mid to high 13's, even with mediocre tires.

bowtie_racer

One thing I'm sure of, is that you can easily spin past 5200RPMs in order to run a faster track time. A properly running LT1 M6 with Long Tubes should easily be able to run mid to high 13's, even with mediocre tires.[/QUOTE]


Thats what I thought! No cat either, I think its running pretty rich. Well I guess I will get a tach in there and try again, and let you all know what happens. Thanks fo all the advice and comments. Someone let me know what the redline is on a 95 if possible.

tbag_skywalker

Thats what I thought! No cat either, I think its running pretty rich. Well I guess I will get a tach in there and try again, and let you all know what happens. Someone let me know what the redline is on a 95 if possible.[/QUOTE]

You mentioned that the previous owner put in white face guages right? Depending on where he got them from, like if they were $2 ebay brand guages, they may just be incorrectly painted. I've looked on my own car and anywhere I've looked online, a stock LT1 redline is 5700-5800RPMs. Your needles may not be off at all, but the redline printed on the white face of your tach surely is.

Basically when you went to the track you were unintentionally short-shifting, which would definately cause you to run 15-flat all night. Take another trip down there with what you've got and spin it to as close to 6000RPMs as you can. I'll bet anything your time improves quite a bit.

By the way- when I put long tubes on my car, before I got it tuned, my car was probably running pretty rich. I had no cats, I deleted all the emission horseshit, and it smelled like gas when it ran lol. I never plugged into the OBDII port to get any a/f readings, so I'm just basing this on how bad the car smelled when I turned it on lol. However, after I sent my PCM down to Ion from MadTuner.com, the car seemed to run a lot smoother and stopped smelling.