control arm sleeves
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 125
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From: canton MI
control arm sleeves Im helping a friend take apart his lower control arms to do a full poly front end kit. I was wondering if you guys know where you can get get the sleeves and washers for the bushings, the kit didnt come with it.
You really don't have to burn out the rubber bushings. Just heat up (carefully) the outer surface of the sleeves and knock out the rubber with a hammer and punch. The heat softens the bond between the sleeve and bushing.
When done, clean the inner surface of the shell with a piece of Scotch Brite and acetone.
Last edited by leadfoot4; Oct 2, 2009 at 06:13 PM.
You really do have to burn out the rubber bushings. Just heat up (carefully) the outer surface of the sleeves and knock out the rubber with a hammer and punch. The heat softens the bond between the sleeve and bushing.
When done, clean the inner surface of the shell with a piece of Scotch Brite and acetone.
When done, clean the inner surface of the shell with a piece of Scotch Brite and acetone.
I helped a friend do a set about 3-4 years ago and it was so bad I pretty much vowed to never do that again for Poly, as the poly bushings tend to squeak over a year or two period of time and you have to disassemble everything to lube them, which means a new alignment, etc...
If I need to do it, on either of my f-bodies, I will be buying a set of the Global West Del-A-Lum bushings for the upper control arms (the aftermarket replacemetn arms are inadequate for the uppers) which have grease fittings on them so you can lube them without disassembly, and a set of the Global West spherical bearings for the bottoms along with new Moog balljoints all around and know I won't have to redo them for the rest of the time I own the car...
You quoted my previous post, and in re-reading it, I realized that I misspelled something and it completely changed what I was saying. (I just did an edit)
What I meant to say is you DON'T have to burn out the bushings, which I know is messy and quite smelly. Just heat up the outer shell, and it breaks the bond between the bushing and shell, and the rubber can be knocked out.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 326
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i was actually referring to just heating them up to break the bond.
i know it can be done without actually burning them,
BUT
my k-member bushings were so stuck in, that i had to heat them to the point where the rubber was catching fire to get them out.
i know it can be done without actually burning them,
BUT
my k-member bushings were so stuck in, that i had to heat them to the point where the rubber was catching fire to get them out.
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Exactly. After a point, if they are "bad" they are usually to the point you have to burn them out. Only if they are serviceable are they good enough to heat up the shell to press the rubber out.
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Verdad Gallardo No, we didn't say that. However what I'll say is this....I've used poly bushings in various cars in my family fleet since the late 1970s, when they first became available. I also live in western New York, where the roads are pretty rough.
When the the majority of cars had 70 and 60 series tires, there was enough sidewall in those tires to provide a little more cushioning, so the harshness of the roads wasn't transmitted to the car, even with poly bushings. Shortly after I bought my '96 Z-28, I installed a full compliment of poly bushings. They remained in the car for one summer, and when the car went back into winter storage, I think it was the '96-'97 winter, the polys came out and Moog rubber bushings went in.
The combination of 50 series tires, the stiffer sidewalls of the tires' "Z" speed rating, and the further deterioration of the area's roads, made the poly bushings too harsh for a car that is basically a daily driver. I'm not saying that the poly bushings aren't good, just that in this application (my Z-28), they weren't a good choice. They do everything that they're advertised to do, with respect to handling improvement, but the down side is that they transmit a lot of harshness into the car, and eventually to the driver. In an area where the roads are fairly smooth, or a on a car with "standard" tires, they'd be GREAT!
When the the majority of cars had 70 and 60 series tires, there was enough sidewall in those tires to provide a little more cushioning, so the harshness of the roads wasn't transmitted to the car, even with poly bushings. Shortly after I bought my '96 Z-28, I installed a full compliment of poly bushings. They remained in the car for one summer, and when the car went back into winter storage, I think it was the '96-'97 winter, the polys came out and Moog rubber bushings went in.
The combination of 50 series tires, the stiffer sidewalls of the tires' "Z" speed rating, and the further deterioration of the area's roads, made the poly bushings too harsh for a car that is basically a daily driver. I'm not saying that the poly bushings aren't good, just that in this application (my Z-28), they weren't a good choice. They do everything that they're advertised to do, with respect to handling improvement, but the down side is that they transmit a lot of harshness into the car, and eventually to the driver. In an area where the roads are fairly smooth, or a on a car with "standard" tires, they'd be GREAT!
They are ok initially if you lube them properly upon assembly. Problem is, over time, they squeek. You can totally disassemble everything and relube them down teh road, but it is a much bigger PITA to do the whole front suspension (which requires a re-alignment) compared to doing rear lower control arms (which are a cakewalk in comparison to pull off and relube properly).
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 125
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From: canton MI
well the bushings are all bad which is why he orderd the kit. The car has also been sitting for a bout five years. He is the original owner (my boss) and he is regaining interest in it. Nice car 96 ws6 black on black. Anybody know how many were made in 96?
