Just curious if anybody knows at what spring pressure or lift do the stock rocker arm studs start deflecting. And at what point is it really necessary to go with the 7/16 studs? I know its kind of a vauge question but am interested in knowing if i might be needing to upgrade to som arp 3/8 studs or even the 7/16

 

whats your valvetrain setup looking like partswise right now?

 

^what he said, 7/16 is never a bad upgrade but you're asking if it's warranted

you running stock cam, rockers, springs?

 

Comp Cams is just a phone call away. Bet they'll tell you.

 

Go with the 7/16" studs. They're cheap insurance.

 

Ihonestly cannot remember the springs that i had put in but they were matched up with the custom cam i am currently runnng. The cams lift is around a .540 lift and am running stock rockers at the moment.
Actually i guess i otto be asking if the rocker arms or the studs would be deflecting at this point?

 

I'm wondering about this as well, I'm running cc918's w/AI's 226/234 w/ .574/.541 on stock studs... 150#'s seat @ 1.845" spring height, 420#'s open @ 1.150". maybe someone will have an idea, I think the only way to tell for sure tho would be to put a high speed camera on it and wind it up.

 

what rpm do you take it up to? are you planning on upgrading the rockers?

 

if your asking me I've got crane golds and have the limiter set to 6600 but so far have only brought it up to 6300 so far(I prefer my foot as a limiter ). I may push it further if I have to or ever make it to the track. I'll prolly bring it to a dyno day next season and figure out whats best. its only temporary tho, next year or two I'll throw some better heads on.. maybe throw some better bolts on the bottom end. I only put ~6k miles on it a year so I'm not too worried.
sorry for the hi-jack OP, good question tho!

 

There should not be any further discussion on 7/16" studs IMO. They're MUCH stronger than the stock 3/8" studs, deflect less, and only increase valvetrain stability. Go with them.

 

well it's just a matter of if it's in his budget honestly

new studs = new rockers (which I'm sure would be NSA so therefor...) = guideplates = upgraded pushrods

also another factor is if he goes with 1.6 rockers his increased lift over a 1.5 might push it into valve float territory with the springs he is unsure of, that only they work for his current lift, so that could mean new springs, locks, retainers, etc as well

yes upgrading to 7/16 is the smarter, safer choice, but like the original post asks, is it the neccessary choice?

 

Arn't The 7/16 stud 3/8 on the side that scres into the heads

 

I believe so or else you'd have to tap/thread a new hole

 

Actually the 3/8ths (stock) is on a 7/16ths thread where it goes into the head. Aftermarket 7/16ths also use 7/16ths where it goes into the head, so it screws in no problem

 

I agree 7/16 would be the way to go..and yes it wouldnt be cheap to upgrade ...so many other things are affected when going to the bigger stud ...i guess im going to have to start peicing some parts together for the swap then..With 10lbs of bost on top of the added lift i am already getting some float above 5,000 and i usually shift anywhere between 5,000- 5,500. I think my springs were only in the 130-140 lbs of pressure at the seat.

 

I still wonder how much pressure it takes to start making them bend. I guess its a question for Mythbusters lol

 

well sounds like you need to redo pretty much most of your valve train then lol

 

Once you start getting float those springs are pretty much trashed, looks like its time to freshen up the top end.

 

Tomknow for sure would take some pretty sophisticated equipment. I bet CompCams has the equipment and has done the testings; whether they're setup to share the results is anyone's guess.

I suspect it would depend on the specific parts being tested too. Who's studs, what springs and at what pressure were they setup, RPM, cam, etc.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

you probably want to check those valvespring numbers, they're not even close to being correct. also it doesnt matter what your open pressure is, you want to know the pressure over the nose. iirc they're about 135# at 1.80 with a rate of 337#.