LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Tourque arms?

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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:36 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
Wicked94Z can you change your avitar, every time I try and read your post and look at it I LMAO!!!! lol.....
definitely not haha
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #22  
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That's the Bean dude..isn't it?
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
That's the Bean dude..isn't it?
Yes it is. Nothing against him (he makes me laugh) but that avatar gives me nightmares. I like Robs avatars better.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
A Torque Arm adds 150hp at the wheels..you don't even want to know what a Panhard Bar will do.

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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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mods are lt4 hotcam kit with lt4 heads,52mmtb,hooker longtubes,borla adjustable ex,aluminum driveshaft,3400 edges stall,built 4l60e,on mt drag radials.already have qa1 drag adjustables in the front,hotchkis rear addjustable shocks,panhan bar,everything but rear drag springs but need some. anyone have any?i have some trouble hooking i think because the front is setting so low.i like going to the track 6 or so times a year but just enjoy driving it.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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How do you launch....from idle or rev.up ?
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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If you're having trouble hooking with a mid 300's rwhp auto car on MTs, either the tires are shot, have way too much air, or you suspension is set up wrong/broken.

I was cutting 1.61's with just rear LCAs and MT dr's, flashing the convertor, no footbraking
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 09:20 AM
  #28  
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The problem is even though stock susp. components may be able to hook up well with average tq output the stock torque arm is still a stamped piece of thin steal that flexes with each launch, fatiguing and sometimes leading to failure. Of course the above is not guaranteed to happen, but I do know of those who took their cars to the track whenever they could and suffered torque arm breakage. If the car is taken to the track then it is always a good idea to reinforce weak points that distribute torque to the wheels.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #29  
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my torque arm was pretty fubar when they installed the new one
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
If you're having trouble hooking with a mid 300's rwhp auto car on MTs, either the tires are shot, have way too much air, or you suspension is set up wrong/broken.

I was cutting 1.61's with just rear LCAs and MT dr's, flashing the convertor, no footbraking

There's a HUGE difference between "hooking" off the line and leaving the line properly/efficiently.

A torque arm will help a lot in dialing in your suspension. I'd suggest one. Was one of my first mods.

edit: and a torque arm doesn't add 150 hp... dont listen to merv... it adds 150 lbs of torque.... that's why it's called a TORQUE arm and not a horsepower arm
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by danhr
There's a HUGE difference between "hooking" off the line and leaving the line properly/efficiently.

A torque arm will help a lot in dialing in your suspension. I'd suggest one. Was one of my first mods.
well I was getting a little light under the tire(s) so who knows I'm not on a stock torque arm anymore anyways. but either way he said he's not hooking aka spinning so that is how I directed my response.

if you can't hook half decent in a mid 300's horsepower auto fbody with MT's and some suspension work then something is broken, the tires are shot, or something is adjusted completely wrong. throwing new suspension components at it unless you're replacing a problematic/broken one is not the answer in that scenario IMO
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:02 PM
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I will say when my 96 z28 m6 was catback/cai only, it would turn consistent 13.7's on the street with a gtech. Soon as I installed a jegs tunnel mt. tq arm, I dropped to 13.4. Flame away on the gtech if you want, but they are accurate! I have personally tested it against the local track and they are within .05, but you have get it level, wich was easy on the first models. I had my regal on the gtech a week ago, it turned 13.75, went to the track 2 days later, it went 13.81. My ls1 is hitting 12.5-12.7's on it, but I won't post times until it's backed up at the track. Point is; an aftermarket tq arm is a necessity on
m6 cars, a4's are different. So make sure your comparing apples to apples here!
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #33  
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he has an auto
I have an auto
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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kind of like this?

except that was cam only with a 3650 raceweight.

Guess my torque arm wasn't helping me....
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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dude I'm not saying a torque arm doesn't help (I own an adjustable one as well)

I WAS SAYING YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE PROBLEMS CUTTING A HALF DECENT 60' IN A STALLED AUTO CAR WITH A DECENT TIRE EVEN ON A STOCK TQ ARM. IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS DOING SUCH THERE IS A PROBLEM IN THE CAR, LIKE A FAILED SUSPENSION COMPONENT, CRAP TIRES, ETC.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
he has an auto
I have an auto
My fault, I missed his post about having a edge 3400.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #37  
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what he should be spending money on is a better H/C package
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 08:40 PM
  #38  
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need one gotcha
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by duh
Bingo......I really need to work on wording huh?
Now I am confused haha, the TQ arm obviously does not add power, but I would think getting better suspension components would increase traction regardless of the tire(assuming you are using the same junk tire, before and after).
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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I really need one of these... I got some MT E/T DRs a couple of weeks ago, and thought that my 60' would improve. I am running the same 60' times that I ran on my street tires (1.93-1.96) - would a TA help me that much? I have LCAs, relocation brackets, SFC, PHB, STB... so I have a pretty solid suspension. Other than that, I have a CAI, GMMG catback, 2800 stall. I managed a 13.59 ET. Would it make that much of a difference right now?
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