LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Would you use this bolt in your K-Frame?

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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Default Would you use this bolt in your K-Frame?

I started this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-rust-rot.html and because I consider it a possible safety thing, I wanted to show it to you guys also.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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if you're worried just replace it, it won't cost much and it's peace of mind....IMO
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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looks like doo doo and half the threads are pretty fubar
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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Did you guys read the other thread? It's about how these bolts came to look like this.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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Dude, relax. It has surface rust. Put anti-seize on them and you won't get surface rust again.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Did you guys read the other thread? It's about how these bolts came to look like this.
negative ghostrider, I have the attention span of a spider monkey on meth
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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"It has surface rust. Put anti-seize on them and you won't get surface rust again."

So you would not only re-use this compromised fastener, you would put it back into the wet environment that prompted the corrosion in the first place? You realize that these bolts hold the engine, steering, brakes and front suspension to the car?
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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You could use a wire brush, then check it with a magnifying glass to check for any pits if you do not want to replace it..Coat it and it will not rust again...
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 08:11 AM
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You guys are cry babies..


The reason it's rusted is cause that's the area that's exposed..the shiny threads are what go into the spots in the Frame Rails, so they are fine and the Bolt is fine.

Now as far as the K-member goes..there are 6 of these Bolts that hold it to the Car. Next thing to keep in mind is the fact that there are also 2 Guide Pins that keep it straight in the Frame Rail so they hold it still, this thing barely moves if any when those Guide Pins are seated.

Here's what you do Paul.. take it to a Bench Grinder with a Wire Brush Wheel, clean it up and spray-paint it. Then when you put it back in, put it in the middle between the other 2 Bolts if you are that worried about it..those of you that have removed a K-member know what I mean.

**** I got some rust on a Tie Rod..does that mean my Steering is fucked?
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
You guys are cry babies..


The reason it's rusted is cause that's the area that's exposed..the shiny threads are what go into the spots in the Frame Rails, so they are fine and the Bolt is fine.

Now as far as the K-member goes..there are 6 of these Bolts that hold it to the Car. Next thing to keep in mind is the fact that there are also 2 Guide Pins that keep it straight in the Frame Rail so they hold it still, this thing barely moves if any when those Guide Pins are seated.

Here's what you do Paul.. take it to a Bench Grinder with a Wire Brush Wheel, clean it up and spray-paint it. Then when you put it back in, put it in the middle between the other 2 Bolts if you are that worried about it..those of you that have removed a K-member know what I mean.

**** I got some rust on a Tie Rod..does that mean my Steering is fucked?

Clean the threads with a nut, wire wheel it, anti-sieze it and screw it.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 08:41 AM
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That bolt is mint!
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 09:22 AM
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You guys seem to be missing the point that these forward four bolts sit in water captured by the design of aftermarket K-Frames. The amount of corrosion on this bolt is from a year and a half’s use. In this condition, the bolt will continue to rust and it’s diameter will slowly be reduced. This compromises the bolt’s integrity.

Wire brushing a rusted bolt will not return it to it’s original strength, 10.9 class in this case. No amount of anti-seize will stay on the bolt very long when immersed in water.

The fix for this is drilling a small weep hole at the base of the bolt sockets in the K-Frame to allow the water out then replacing the bolts with the correct, class 10.9 fasteners from GM.

I’ve posted this to share with everybody what could possibly become a hazardous condition.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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Understood. Here's how you solve that problem with less work..before you put that Bolt in pack that area with some Grease and put the Bolt in.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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+1 for stock kframes. Never seen water being caught in my kframe though the bolts do get some surface rust. Nothing I've ever worried about, though. Buy a POR15 kit with the degreaser, rust neutralizer, and paint. Use a wire brush on the bolts, soak the bolts in the degreaser, clean them off, soak them in the rust neutralizer for any remaining bits of rust left, and then paint 'em with POR15. Obviously, don't paint the threads. They never see daylight so you don't have to worry about the UV coating.

Personally, if you're going to have a holy war about the bolts, I'd contact the aftermarket k-frame company and tell them they need to change their design.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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"if you're going to have a holy war..."

Yeah, I was thinking to myself "am I being too **** about these bolts?" PERHAPS but as I get older, I’ve become more **** and particular about fasteners and everything about them. Also, the idea that, in an extreme example, the situation with these bolts could cause a hazard.

To each his own fix or not to take any action but now it’s known that this can be an issue as these cars age. New bolts and weep hole will be my course of action.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Do what you want but I think it is stupid. moehorsepower and merv summed it up so I'm not going to waste the effort
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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There are hundreds of fasteners on our cars that you can't see that are original and at least 13 years old which are probably more corroded than that, but you don't see everyone running around in a panic replacing every bolt they see.

Wire brush, visual inspection, reinstall. IMO.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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I'll say this..

When it comes to the point where it depends on that one sole bolt for life or death.. alot of other things have already been or in the process of being fucked up(ex. you are in the middle of wrecking it) to get to that point.


I think that says it.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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If it worries you just replace it. If I had any doubt at all I would replace it. Although that bolt doesnt look to bad to me.
Doing some of the other methods mentioned could cost more than new bolts unless you happen to have everything laying around. lol
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