hey guys i just bought a 94 z A4 today took it out and it seems to cut out a little sometimes... just turned over 120k. i think im going to put plugs, wires, fuel filter.. any other ideas? thanks a lot!

 

cap and rotor

 

i have no idea what could cause this cutting out. i havent gotten the plugs and wires cap/rotor i ordered yet but i dont think this is caused by that... it does it randomly, more often when cold and will only last about 15-20 seconds or so then its back to normal. my ses light is on but i have to wait til tomorrow to see what that code is. anyone have any ideas? it also takes a while of cranking to start now and didnt when i first bought it.. maybe fuel pump?

 

Thats what mine started doing right before the fuel pump went out.

 

Cap and rotor, as already stated. Could also be the whole Opti. But pull the codes and seew what they are.


I dont see a fuel pump throwing the ses light... Possible but usually doesnt.


.02

 

gregrob is right, I had the similar symptoms minus the ses light coming on so probably not fuel pump.

 

just do a whole tune up...plugs..wires..cap/rotor..oil filter..fuel pump..air filter..flush all fluids and refill them..but if you can pull the codes and see wuts wrong...but at 120k a tune up isnt a bad idea..good luck man

 

just pulled the codes and it was just one EGR failure... suppose ill look up how to test it and most likely replace it.

 

where in the heck is this egr valve im suppost to check to make sure its not stuck? i cant seem to figure out what exactly im looking for..

 

I say wires as thats what mine would do,

 

egr valve is on passenger side on back of the intake i believe, my mind just went blank. Its there or on passenger side valve cover

 

Hey:

EGR Its on the very back of the intake on the drivers side almost centered.
2 nuts and its off, but its not easy to get back there for some folks.

Go to shbox website it has a good pic of it.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without

 

Just do a delete. Its not hard to make the blocks for thoes, its what I am doing for mine. You can also buy a kit cheap off ebay or other fbody parts sites such as hawks or eckler. I am also deleting my AIR system and getting the egr and air deleted from the computer when I do the tune.

 

get rid of it

 

Hey:

If you do decide to keep it, you may want to check the lines and solenoid first
then unstick and clean the EGR valve and use some hi temp copper grease on it to keep it from getting stuck again. If you do delete it, make sure its tuned out to pass emissions.

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without

 

Just a suggestion but there is some wiring that passes close to the exhaust on the passenger side... It will cause random issues if it gets too hot... the wires will just melt into each other... Good luck.

 

so if im getting the egr code and its running bad after its warmed up can i just block off the egr and problem solved? do i just get little things to block off the egr off headers? i dont need to pass emissions

 

I am sure there is a write up on the side here somewhere, but to help you out some cause I am preasntly doing this myself, here is a little info from my egr work.

There are 2 things that are coming off your headers, the EGR gas feed off the back, and the AIR system, usually near the front of the headers. If you're not messing with the AIR system, then you will just need to remove the egr gas feed off the rear passenger side header. These are the block offs for the egr system from summit racing that will fit your LT1:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-2100/

I fabbed mine at home with some aluminum I had in the garage. Some things I found that helped to make this a little eaiser was removing the valve covers and the AIR pipeing. Also, another just to be safe thing, remove your dipstick when messing in that area. I broke the top of the dipstick off when I was reaching around trying to break loose the nuts off the gas feed tube, and had to use a drill to get the dipstick out of the feed tube.

Just remove the egr valve and the gas feed off the back if the intake and the pass header. Unplug the pvc tubes from the intake and the solenoid, and plug the port on the intake with a rubber cover. You can get a pack of rubber covers from any parts store such as AutoZone for cheap. Its going to be tight behind the intake, so a small wrench will be needed to reach the nuts on the valve and gas tube. I just went to lowes and bought a 1/2" wrench like this one:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...379&lpage=none

and cut it down to fit behind the intake. Was a good thing to do, and the wrench can be used for other things being that short also, so no waste on a hacked wrench. Once you have removed the valve and gas tube, recover them with the block offs, use some high temp RVT seal on them (another AutoZone purchase), and wrench them back on. Let it sit so the RVT can dry, and then you're done. Not sure if this will fix your bad running completely, but it can't hurt it, and easier and cheaper than replacing the egr valve. Attached also is the pic from shbox.com that 1993 z28 f1 posted with some edits I just did to show you a little more of what to remove. Hope this helps some.