LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Deleting Emissions..

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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Arrow Deleting Emissions..

I have a 96 fully rebuilt LT1. It currently has a 503 Comp Cam and LT Pacesetters. When I pulled my engine out me and my dad went ahead and kept all the emissions. I regret it but it my dad wanted to make sure it can pass inspections.

So since Im about to get my car dyno tuned from Moe Bailey i was thinking about deleting my emissions, Egr, Air pump, pretty much anything that is not needed.

I was hoping to get someone very experinced with this to let me know how to delete this all and what are the side effects or BENIFITS from doing this. It would be greatly appreciated!

I do plan on keeping my cats though..

So what are the HP gains from doing this?
Will a tune teach my computer that it's all okay?
Will my car run without the tune for a week or two?
How do you pass inspections?
What tricks do you use to pass them?

Thank you guys!
Ryan.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Default emissions

x2 On this question about the emissions. What are the Pros/cons?
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WARDOG
x2 On this question about the emissions. What are the Pros/cons?
I know of plently of cars including myself that have passed emissions without all of that junk. The EGR the AIR pump all of that tubing, junk it all!!!!! With the proper "just to pass emissions tune" you can get it to pass. My 355 had 11.2:1 CR, TFS Heads and a Crane 222/230 .545 .565 112LSA in it and I made it pass with a fake gutted CAT and no emissions crap. I made a tune to lean it wayyyyy out at part throttle and idle, I drove to the place changed the tune across the street at a gas station and drove it over for the sticker. The thing was poppin away but it passed, after I got the sticker I drove back across the street, put in the good tune and I've been ripping around ever since lol. Of course I'm trying to figure out how the hell to pass with my new motor now lol. You can drop all that weight and make another few horsepower for free. Free mod it up thats why they call them free mods! Get a supporting tune to shut off all the codes so your dashboard won't look like a christmas tree and the car will run right and wont go into the EGR/Cat Overtemp table and you should be good. Espically with a mild cam like that I don't see a problem at all espically with cats on the car.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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-expect less than 5hp I'd say
-you can tune it all to make it ok, it's very common
-yes, your car will run perfectly fine with the stuff removed, just with the check engine light on until you get it deleted in the tune.
-about 10lbs off the front end
-more room to work in yur engine bay
-more simplified "cleaner" looking engine bay
-screw the catalytic converters
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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only question, do they do the sniffer or do they just plug into the computer down in Texas? if they put it on the sniffer then you have to keep everything.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Badazz 97 TA
only question, do they do the sniffer or do they just plug into the computer down in Texas? if they put it on the sniffer then you have to keep everything.
They put the snifffer in mine and I had no problem getting it to pass with a special tune.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Badazz 97 TA
only question, do they do the sniffer or do they just plug into the computer down in Texas? if they put it on the sniffer then you have to keep everything.
OBDI requires a sniffer. OBDII uses a glorified scan tool which is connected to a DMV data base which checks to see if all sensors are operable. If you fail it will send notice you have failed. There are exceptions to how many sensors can be inoperable depending on the state of residence (this was as of three or more years ago. May have changed since then). The scan tool is plugged into the diagnostic port and it reads whether or not the sensor is "ready" or "not ready." Do not take your car to get a sniffer done if the PCM has been reset or the battery has been disconnected. It can take several hundred miles for all sensors to be at a "ready" status. Sensors can be deleted or set to trick the scan tool into thinking the sensor is present. I would talk to an emissions place about how many sensors can be "not ready" before delving too far into this.
Google OBDII emissions testing. There's all kinds of info.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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okay awesome!
This sounds like im asking for alot, but is it possible for me to get directions on what to remove? Maybe some pictures, What do you cap everything off with? What does the AIR Pump do anyways? lol
so yaa just a guide through deleting everything would be GREAT! Plus..what sensors need to be removed?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by red-_-z28
okay awesome!
This sounds like im asking for alot, but is it possible for me to get directions on what to remove? Maybe some pictures, What do you cap everything off with? What does the AIR Pump do anyways? lol
so yaa just a guide through deleting everything would be GREAT! Plus..what sensors need to be removed?
BTW - is your car a 96' and if so you shouldn't have to worry as OBDII is a lot easier to get to pass then mine 95' as stated above on OBD1 we have dumb computers and they have to do the sniffer (No way to avoid that). Hopefully, TX will drop the sniffer soon and grandfather in OBDI comps as Illinois did a couple of years ago. As to the air pump all it does is pump fresh air/oxygen into the exhaust (thru the manifolds) to bring the CAT upto temp sooner as the hotter a cat the more effective it is at burning of NOX. Be careful as here in TX they are still pretty picky at some places and some guys do still do a visual and technically they can fail you if they know what to look for and if they know you have removed the emissions equip regardless if your computer passes the test.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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lol funny thing is i live in texas
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by red-_-z28
lol funny thing is i live in texas
LOL - I know as I saw it in your location setting.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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okay so the EGR exhaust pipe and valve can be removed?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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and what about the solenoid?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by red-_-z28
okay awesome!
This sounds like im asking for alot, but is it possible for me to get directions on what to remove? Maybe some pictures, What do you cap everything off with? What does the AIR Pump do anyways? lol
so yaa just a guide through deleting everything would be GREAT! Plus..what sensors need to be removed?
I don't have any pics for ya but off the top of my head your going to remove the solenoid at the back of the manifold for the egr, its kind of a saucer shaped black thing about the size of your fist. Then your going to pull off the pipe next to it that connects to the headers and throw all that crap away. Your going to have to make or buy some block off plates for the intake and the headers (if you have smog headers which I'm assuming you do). I actually have a set of the plates made out of aluminum for the intake, PM me if you want them. After this your going to remove the AIR pump in the front of the motor on the drivers side, also your going to toss all of the piping that goes with that to the exhaust. After that tape up the connectors that you unplugged, fix the tune, sit back and enjoy all the space you just freed up under the hood.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:35 PM
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sounds great!! so all connectors get unplugged and taped up?
also you know all of those skinny *** wires that connect to the EGR and like next to the brake booster? Do those go too?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by red-_-z28
sounds great!! so all connectors get unplugged and taped up?
also you know all of those skinny *** wires that connect to the EGR and like next to the brake booster? Do those go too?
Trying to remember here all of my sh*t I ditched a while ago lol. Yes the one that plugs into the EGR goes. Not the other one behind it though thats your oil press sender. As for the ones near the brake booster I'm not sure I know what your talking about. I can't recall any wires being near the booster.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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It has all of Those baby 90 degree boots. It's like a hard plastic. I know one runs under the TB and to the pass side of the car.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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I'm interested to see what mine does on a Sniffer..probably melt it..lol

I'll have to somehow convince them that it's a OBDII Car..stock like that from the factory..
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I'm interested to see what mine does on a Sniffer..probably melt it..lol

I'll have to somehow convince them that it's a OBDII Car..stock like that from the factory..
LOL - prob choke the computer!!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Lol.. it's at a 12.8:1 A/F..right where it should be. You can smell it and definately tell it has no Cats..
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