Oil drive gears shredding
11-27-2009, 08:26 PM
#21
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fort campbell
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Comp sells a polymer gear, we had to make a spacer when it first came out but I think they have one that fits the lt1 now. It has been going strong for many years now on a steel gear
11-28-2009, 05:19 AM
#23
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fort campbell
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Last edited by 1redta; 11-28-2009 at 08:20 AM. Reason: part
11-28-2009, 11:57 AM
#25
I thought the LT1 diameter on those gears had to be .427? I don't think any of the composite gears come in the proper size for the LT1. You'll have to get a bushing.
I lost a gear back in 2003. Took out the motor. When I swapped cams I put in a new Crane Bronze (now discontinued I think) CRN-11988-1. After a year, I checked the gear and all the teeth were razor thin. I think I was within a month of losing another motor due to that. Like Shoebox and others mentioned, its the HV pumps. I just put a stock pump back in mine to combat the accelerated wear.
I lost a gear back in 2003. Took out the motor. When I swapped cams I put in a new Crane Bronze (now discontinued I think) CRN-11988-1. After a year, I checked the gear and all the teeth were razor thin. I think I was within a month of losing another motor due to that. Like Shoebox and others mentioned, its the HV pumps. I just put a stock pump back in mine to combat the accelerated wear.
11-28-2009, 01:45 PM
#27
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fort campbell
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mightyquickz28 the bronze definately wont last to long
gjohnsonws6 we installed the bushing in to the gear first using a interference/press fit with the bushing in the freezer and the cam gear on top of the stove for example. with the bushing in place we turned the inside diameter to the needed size for the oil pump drive
gjohnsonws6 we installed the bushing in to the gear first using a interference/press fit with the bushing in the freezer and the cam gear on top of the stove for example. with the bushing in place we turned the inside diameter to the needed size for the oil pump drive
11-29-2009, 01:56 PM
#28
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ID depends on which end of the gear you measure.
I just measured a stock LT1 gear using a Digimatic digital mic, model CD-6 "B and the END AWAY FROM THE GEAR measures .4900"/.4915" and the END NEAR THE GEAR is .4270"/.4275"; overall length is 1.8070"/1.8075. Variance depends on how deeply I insert the mic's jaws.
So Comp's gear should work since it's .491.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
I just measured a stock LT1 gear using a Digimatic digital mic, model CD-6 "B and the END AWAY FROM THE GEAR measures .4900"/.4915" and the END NEAR THE GEAR is .4270"/.4275"; overall length is 1.8070"/1.8075. Variance depends on how deeply I insert the mic's jaws.
So Comp's gear should work since it's .491.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
11-30-2009, 12:24 PM
#30
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hutchinson,KS
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I lost the gear three times. First time was the day I bought the friggin car
. The mechanic said it was a material mismatch b/c it was a steel gear on a steel cam. He put in a cast gear on a brand new comp 502 and a stock replacement pump a year later the gear was half gone. At this point I put in a .427"bore bronze gear, lasted 6k miles then poof no more. Luckily both times it actually failed i saw it immediately. I personally made the sleeve and installed the comp composite gear on the stock stub shaft, that was at least 20k ago.
ALSO, if this is an issue, when I put on the composite gear I took a hack saw blade and cut two VERY shallow blade width notches into the composite stub shaft holder to improve the oiling to the composite gear.
BTW, I run Mobil 1 10w-30 and Mobil 1 1 quart filter
can't find any pictures or i'd post them, Good Luck
. The mechanic said it was a material mismatch b/c it was a steel gear on a steel cam. He put in a cast gear on a brand new comp 502 and a stock replacement pump a year later the gear was half gone. At this point I put in a .427"bore bronze gear, lasted 6k miles then poof no more. Luckily both times it actually failed i saw it immediately. I personally made the sleeve and installed the comp composite gear on the stock stub shaft, that was at least 20k ago. ALSO, if this is an issue, when I put on the composite gear I took a hack saw blade and cut two VERY shallow blade width notches into the composite stub shaft holder to improve the oiling to the composite gear.
BTW, I run Mobil 1 10w-30 and Mobil 1 1 quart filter
can't find any pictures or i'd post them, Good Luck
11-30-2009, 12:35 PM
#31
Good info Dave. So, you used that composite gear that was mentioned earlier with your sleeve and you've been good to go since then? If so, I'm ordering one today and have my machinist get a sleeve setup for it. 6 months from now, I'll pop the intake off to switch gears and put the composite in there at that time.
I lost the gear three times. First time was the day I bought the friggin car. The mechanic said it was a material mismatch b/c it was a steel gear on a steel cam. He put in a cast gear on a brand new comp 502 and a stock replacement pump a year later the gear was half gone. At this point I put in a .427"bore bronze gear, lasted 6k miles then poof no more. Luckily both times it actually failed i saw it immediately. I personally made the sleeve and installed the comp composite gear on the stock stub shaft, that was at least 20k ago.
ALSO, if this is an issue, when I put on the composite gear I took a hack saw blade and cut two VERY shallow blade width notches into the composite stub shaft holder to improve the oiling to the composite gear.
BTW, I run Mobil 1 10w-30 and Mobil 1 1 quart filter
can't find any pictures or i'd post them, Good Luck
. The mechanic said it was a material mismatch b/c it was a steel gear on a steel cam. He put in a cast gear on a brand new comp 502 and a stock replacement pump a year later the gear was half gone. At this point I put in a .427"bore bronze gear, lasted 6k miles then poof no more. Luckily both times it actually failed i saw it immediately. I personally made the sleeve and installed the comp composite gear on the stock stub shaft, that was at least 20k ago. ALSO, if this is an issue, when I put on the composite gear I took a hack saw blade and cut two VERY shallow blade width notches into the composite stub shaft holder to improve the oiling to the composite gear.
BTW, I run Mobil 1 10w-30 and Mobil 1 1 quart filter
can't find any pictures or i'd post them, Good Luck
11-30-2009, 01:03 PM
#32
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hutchinson,KS
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
get the composite gear! it's about twice the cost of the bronze gear but it's worth it.
I used the .500" ID gear (that way the sleeve is thicker/easier to make) and brass for the sleeve. The steel pump drive shaft was .490 or so, so the sleeve should not extend past the section of the gear that is .427" i just pressed the sleeve on the shaft and used a tubing cutter to remove the excess material. Drill the hole and BAM gear fits.
I highly recommend cutting the oil grooves b/c stock oiling just relies on splash.
I used the .500" ID gear (that way the sleeve is thicker/easier to make) and brass for the sleeve. The steel pump drive shaft was .490 or so, so the sleeve should not extend past the section of the gear that is .427" i just pressed the sleeve on the shaft and used a tubing cutter to remove the excess material. Drill the hole and BAM gear fits.
I highly recommend cutting the oil grooves b/c stock oiling just relies on splash.
12-01-2009, 07:29 PM
#35
I cut the oil slot/groove on the one that was installed after the first one and on the new one as well.I already have it all put back together,but I might take it apart in a few months and install the comp gear,I was actually thinking of using the comp gear the first time this had happened
12-12-2009, 02:59 PM
#36
Well I just ordered my comp gear and I'll let my engine builder know to cut the oiling grooves into the shaft that the composite gear rides on, is that correct?
This plus my Herron billet op drive housing should be good to go on my new combo; all forged splayed 4 bolt main 383, LE3 heads & ported intake, 847 cam & Caddy Racing hr lifters, Rollmaster dr, Milodon oil pump & Canton 244T oil pan and EFI 24x ignition. Man I can't wait for everything to be finished or arrive so I can get it in the car and ride.
This plus my Herron billet op drive housing should be good to go on my new combo; all forged splayed 4 bolt main 383, LE3 heads & ported intake, 847 cam & Caddy Racing hr lifters, Rollmaster dr, Milodon oil pump & Canton 244T oil pan and EFI 24x ignition. Man I can't wait for everything to be finished or arrive so I can get it in the car and ride.
Last edited by 97Z28SS; 12-12-2009 at 03:06 PM.
12-13-2009, 08:52 AM
#40
Sorry no pics here,the groove/slot goes in the lower section of the housing.There is the upper,then the galley groove then the lower.It will face towards the cam gear and needs to be .030'' deep.I have been using a dremel with a cut off wheel