bottom end suggestions
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: calgary ab.
bottom end suggestions hi i have a 95 firebird with the lt1. i took the motor out and am rebuilding it, i am looking to rebuild it and run around 350hp on just motor and i need some suggestions for parts or what i should put into the bottom end. i dont want to bore it out so i want to keep it a 350. and its kinda a budget build any suggestions or a full build would help thank you
hi i have a 95 firebird with the lt1. i took the motor out and am rebuilding it, i am looking to rebuild it and run around 350hp on just motor and i need some suggestions for parts or what i should put into the bottom end. i dont want to bore it out so i want to keep it a 350. and its kinda a budget build any suggestions or a full build would help thank you
you shouldnt need a new bottom end, take the crank to the machine shop and get it polished/turned and have them balance the crank/motor/flywheel and harmonic balencer. Get arp studs for the main caps and youll have a stout bottom end that could handle more than the 350 hp goal you have. Summit sells a rebuild lt1 kit that is very decently priced. it has nearly everything you need. you can reuse stock rods that were balanced. it comes with pistons, rings, gaskets and seals, bearings, etc etc. Other than that youll need your valve train and w/e head and intake porting you want and itll be a fun little motor.
I am building mine as well and plan to have 400 easyly at the fly and i have a stock bottom end.
I am building mine as well and plan to have 400 easyly at the fly and i have a stock bottom end.
Making this WAY too difficult and expensive, and you have not even addressed anything that would add power.
Any reason to expect that the motor needs attention??
A LOT of us have done heads and cam ending up with more power than that without even having to remove the engine from the car.
Far as the recommendation to put ARP studs in the mains I would NOT for a couple reasons. One I would not swap to studs unless I were having it line honed. Switching bolts to studs changes the slight deflection that happens when fasteners are tightened. That and the ARP studs are well documented to be difficult to make work with the stock windage tray.
Any reason to expect that the motor needs attention??
A LOT of us have done heads and cam ending up with more power than that without even having to remove the engine from the car.
Far as the recommendation to put ARP studs in the mains I would NOT for a couple reasons. One I would not swap to studs unless I were having it line honed. Switching bolts to studs changes the slight deflection that happens when fasteners are tightened. That and the ARP studs are well documented to be difficult to make work with the stock windage tray.
they just released studs made for the lt1 windage tray. and i had my motor machined with the studs and for them, so in his case id go with bolts but the new lt1 studs are very handy and alot stronger.
