why can't you use break-in oil with ohio crank?
12-08-2009, 01:20 AM
#21
yeah i used Joe Gibbs BR30 break-in oil. I wasnt sure if i should get the regular or the 10w-30 version so I just got the 30. Just dropped the car off today. Motor will be in the car in a few days. I beat the living HELL out of the other one. Spun a couple bearings..hehe
12-08-2009, 09:45 AM
#22
I do know of one.
The Mobil 1 "High Mileage" version of that oil line is fortified with 'extra' lubricants (i.e. - Zinc & Phosphours), which translates to the older / original version of that oil.
FYI -
The reason for the reduction of Zinc & Phosphours in oils is ultimately related to the design of the newer catalytic converters; these newer cats have been getting a finer, more evenly distributed, wash-coating of Platinum as the technology for distributing that (very expensive!) metal has improved. However, this means that the 'thinner' catalytic / Platinum surfaces is more sensitive to contaminates such as (you guessed it!): Zinc & Phosphours!
The logic in the High Mileage version of Mobil 1 with the higher levels of Zinc & Phosphours is that those older cars will have older converters with thicker Platinum coatings on their cat's internal surfaces, and therefore these converters will still function properly even with the 'extra' anti-wear agents.
The Mobil 1 "High Mileage" version of that oil line is fortified with 'extra' lubricants (i.e. - Zinc & Phosphours), which translates to the older / original version of that oil.
FYI -
The reason for the reduction of Zinc & Phosphours in oils is ultimately related to the design of the newer catalytic converters; these newer cats have been getting a finer, more evenly distributed, wash-coating of Platinum as the technology for distributing that (very expensive!) metal has improved. However, this means that the 'thinner' catalytic / Platinum surfaces is more sensitive to contaminates such as (you guessed it!): Zinc & Phosphours!
The logic in the High Mileage version of Mobil 1 with the higher levels of Zinc & Phosphours is that those older cars will have older converters with thicker Platinum coatings on their cat's internal surfaces, and therefore these converters will still function properly even with the 'extra' anti-wear agents.
12-08-2009, 11:26 AM
#23
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No doubt good oil, and shows to go that not everyone knows everything. 
This piqued my curiosity, so I emailed a contact I have at an oil company about their use. The contact is a tribologist, and he had this to say:
The emphasis there is mine. Obviously, oil like this shouldn't be used in cars that retain a catalytic converter.
This piqued my curiosity, so I emailed a contact I have at an oil company about their use. The contact is a tribologist, and he had this to say:
the latest engine oil specs are designed (and tested) to provide protection to newer engines with roller cams. Older engine oil could be run in these engines as well but the exhaust systems do not allow for the elevated additive levels. The higher levels of ash forming additive will cause the catalytic devices and particulate traps to foul earlier than expected. New engine oil is deemed backward compatible and should be ok in older engines.
12-08-2009, 01:04 PM
#25
Well, good words about the pros for special break in oils. I suppose if it’s no more expensive than regular oils and readily available, I’d use it.
I’ll still maintain that the oil & filter should be changed soon after first start up to get out the rag lint and any assembly lubes that washed into the filter.
Not that I have a new engine anytime in my near future...
I’ll still maintain that the oil & filter should be changed soon after first start up to get out the rag lint and any assembly lubes that washed into the filter.
Not that I have a new engine anytime in my near future...
12-08-2009, 01:08 PM
#26
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
More like third or 4th start up after the rings have been seated so such remnants can be discarded. Assy lube basically dissolves in oil. If you are getting rag lint into a brand new engine you should probably rethink your rebuilding strategy.
12-08-2009, 03:00 PM
#27
The reason for the reduction of Zinc & Phosphours in oils is ultimately related to the design of the newer catalytic converters; these newer cats have been getting a finer, more evenly distributed, wash-coating of Platinum as the technology for distributing that (very expensive!) metal has improved. However, this means that the 'thinner' catalytic / Platinum surfaces is more sensitive to contaminates such as (you guessed it!): Zinc & Phosphours!
12-09-2009, 01:56 AM
#28
Mobil 1 Track only,not cheap about $25 a quart.Yes everything has gone to rollers,and the cats have gotten better.And all the new diesels have cats/particle filters which will get full faster if a traditional ZDP oil is used.You used to be able to use truck oil for break in,but you can scratch that off the list too.No more ZDP,unless you use an additive or a ZDP break in oil.All they are doing is adding the ZDP,which was taken away several years ago,however ... HOW OLD ARE OUR CARS? and why cant we run a slight amount of ZDP? Maybe half a bottle of the additive with each oil change?Think about how hard we run these things and you might want some ZDP in your engine too.It all points to the cat same thing in 74 with the removal of lead
12-09-2009, 07:44 AM
#29
New Development! Mobil 1 Track only,not cheap about $25 a quart.Yes everything has gone to rollers,and the cats have gotten better.And all the new diesels have cats/particle filters which will get full faster if a traditional ZDP oil is used.You used to be able to use truck oil for break in,but you can scratch that off the list too.No more ZDP,unless you use an additive or a ZDP break in oil.All they are doing is adding the ZDP,which was taken away several years ago,however ... HOW OLD ARE OUR CARS? and why cant we run a slight amount of ZDP? Maybe half a bottle of the additive with each oil change?Think about how hard we run these things and you might want some ZDP in your engine too.It all points to the cat same thing in 74 with the removal of lead
I started looking in the oil isle just yesterday and came across some brand new oil made to an older (circa 1988!) SAE standard, offered by two different brands. It might be the same oil in different packaging, but there is an alternative now commercially available at regular oil prices! Just look for the stuff labeled "For cars made prior to 1988".
Yes, I know, our cars are indeed newer than 1988; but this simply means no oil changes at greater than 5000 mile intervals, to avoid potential sludge build-up. Having said that, who here actually waits over 2000 miles to change their oil?
12-09-2009, 07:53 AM
#31
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Agreed. Absolute overkill. I had an '85 V6 Camaro I drove the **** out of when I was a teenager. Bought it with 23K miles on it and drove it to 210K miles with 3000 mile faithful oil changes. Car never missed a beat. Same thing with my LT1. Drove it to 110K miles with faithful 3K oil changes and not one ounce of sludge buildup.
12-09-2009, 08:07 AM
#32
Agreed. Absolute overkill. I had an '85 V6 Camaro I drove the **** out of when I was a teenager. Bought it with 23K miles on it and drove it to 210K miles with 3000 mile faithful oil changes. Car never missed a beat. Same thing with my LT1. Drove it to 110K miles with faithful 3K oil changes and not one ounce of sludge buildup.
Not to hyjack or start a finger-pointing and peter-pulling contest (
), but with a turbo using the same oil as the engine, it's not overkill, it's just being safe. Coke build-up on the turbo's bearings is a bad thing! Having said that, 2000 miles or 3000 miles - tomato / tomatoe...
lol
12-09-2009, 09:08 AM
#34
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Having said that, 2000 miles or 3000 miles - tomato / tomatoe...
