LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

this is my build plan for a shortblock

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Default this is my build plan for a shortblock

lmk what you think or if you can offer up and suggestions or cheaper parts..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-92300-1/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-224-43469V/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-830001/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-5501/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-1235M/

also what is the going rate to hot tank a block and get it line honed as well as install new cam bearings
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Hey:

You can dump the hv oil pump just get a stock GM pump or Melling 55 equal,
HV pumps cause problems you don't want. I wouldn't use a cast crank either.

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:32 PM
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If cheap is your goal, don't waste your money on a new cast iron rotating assembly.
You'd might as well just run a stock crank and rods then add +.030 pistons.
You can buy those parts used and clean them up dirt cheap

What are your goals for this engine?
Is it just a rebuild? Or are you looking to build something really fast?
Power adders? Head/Cam choice?
Those all play a big role in deciding what combination meets your needs.
Hypereutectic pistons are not going to take much abuse.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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the crank that i have was beyond repair.. i plan to go 355. the block needs to be cleaned up so im forced to. im not sure if my rods are good or not. i may add nitrous later down the road. cam is prob gonna be a gm847. heads will probably be a stock casting with a little port work... where would you recommend to go for parts.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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Hey:

Ohio Crank, CNC motorsports, or Wiseco get the forged assembly from either all have very good prices.

Dub

When In Doubt Do Without
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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If that's the case, find yourself a good used crank and rods from the for-sale section.
Have the parts checked at the machine shop prior to installing.
That'll save you some money and headache.

Summit is a decent place to buy parts. Prices, tech support and selection are pretty good.
Find a set of forged Mahle, SRP, Wiseco or Ross forged pistons with dishs that meet your CR requirements.
That all depends on deck height, head gasket thickness, combustion chamber size, cam choice .....
(FWIW, I run -13cc Wiseco pistons with a zero deck, 56cc chambers and .029" gaskets; gives me a lot of options for cams and tune)

For ported heads and a decent cam, hit http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html
Even the budget heads and one of his 226/230 111LSA cam would do better than the 847.
The LE2 heads are worth every penny.
The 847 was a nice cam in it's day, but the design just doesn't stand up to more modern grinds.
The CC503 is a great off-the-shelf cam for a 350/355 if you prefer to go that route.

Drop Lloyd an email or PM, he'll give you all the advice you need (for free) even if it doesn't lean to a sale.
One of the nicest vendor's I've ever dealt with.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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honestly i cant afford to get ported heads at the moment.. im going to put stockers on and rock them for a year or so and then get ported ones. I had the cc306 in my 96z and i loved it. so i wanna try the 847.. i mean how can i tell if my rods are bad or not.. i had one with a spun rod bearing but it wasn't terrible.. the crank is def. toast though..
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracer2536
honestly i cant afford to get ported heads at the moment.. im going to put stockers on and rock them for a year or so and then get ported ones. I had the cc306 in my 96z and i loved it. so i wanna try the 847.. i mean how can i tell if my rods are bad or not.. i had one with a spun rod bearing but it wasn't terrible.. the crank is def. toast though..
847 with unported heads and an aftermarket cast 355 is a recipe for disaster.

The cam will want more rpms then your bottom end can handle, won't make much power on the stock heads, and you will lose a ton of low end with that cam on a 355. A custom grind will not cost much more, but be easier to tune, more streetable, more low end, and still peak just as high or higher then the much larger 847.

Like suggested, I would go stock crank with 30 over pistons, ARP rod bolts, and a mild custom grind from LE. Then you can have your heads ported later down the road to really wake it up in the future, without sacrificing drivability and ease of tuning now.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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to be honest the driveability isnt that bad. i ran the cc306 on stock gearing with a 6spd and i enjoyed driving it.. the tune was spot on that i had.. i dont see why i cant reproduce the same results.. what is wrong with this kit. not saying that im not taking what yall are taking into consideration just wanting the info
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Listen to JM and Puck - good advice there.

Only thing I'd add - zero-deck the block, -5cc pistons, and mill heads to ~54cc for a nice N/A application.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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i plan to arp the bottom end.. mains and with that kit the rods are also arp'd. would this not be a good setup? if i run nitrous it would only be a 100shot.. thats a big if..

would this not be a reliable cam only setup?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-92305-1/
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