2 bolt Corvette motor?
10-21-2010, 04:55 PM
#41
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Obviously, I've still got plenty of work to do. Finish the tubing and hoses for the intake, get the ignition set up ( I know one connector is already wrong, so I'll probably have some wiring or ordering to do), the rest of the intake sensors (just ordered the MAF last night). CPW is done with the wiring, and is doing the programming now. I've still got a broken bolt in the rear main seal housing that I have to drill out. Oil pan fitment, transmission & flywheel installation. I'm sure there will be problems with the T56 clutch; that seems pretty common.
Then I have to build something to set the engine on while I pull the truck in and start ripping it apart!
05-14-2011, 11:25 AM
#42
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good morning, and happy weekend folks!
Well, the LT1 is in, and I fired it for the first time last night. It's a MEAN sounding son of a gun without an exhaust system!!!!
http://s350.wordpress.com
I've got a couple of issues I was hoping you can help me with. I've been through the books and the Google, and haven't found anything yet. Maybe you guys know something.
First, some basics about the install, so you don't have to go read the whole thread. It's a 96 S10. I replaced the fuel pump about 6 months before the truck came down for the engine swap, and it ran great on the V6. It's a 95 LT1, backed by a T56. Trick Flow top end (heads, cam, 1.6RR, etc), aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. New optispark, waterpump. Current Performance Wiring harness, running both the original V6 PCM and an LT1 PCM. I have the V6 radiator in there, with a pair of pusher-type Flex-a-lite fans mounted in place of the AC condensor. It's got a 180F thermostat now, but the fans are set for a 160 Tstat, and I'll be switching it soon, as well as adding an oil cooler. It is intended to be emissions legal.
1. Fuel pressure: the pump primes just fine. I've got the aeromotive set to give about 58 lbs on prime, works great. Pressure drops to 20lbs after about 10 seconds after the priming stops. The engine starts after about 1 second when I turn the key, but you can watch the fuel pressure go to zero while the engine is running, and then it stops. I pulled the fuel pump relay and shorted the power contacts, started the engine up and it ran like a champ. Strong, non-hesitating, LOTS of noise! I went through all my initial start up checks, and it seems to run great. Of course, as soon as I pull the jumper lead, the engine dies since the fuel pump stops running. SO--the pump primes when you turn the key to on; what tells it to start running AGAIN after the engine starts?
2. Oil pressure: when priming the engine with oil on the starter (coil disconnected), my oil pressure gauge pegged high. Once the engine started, it stayed high. Does this mean my oil pressure sender is bad? Is THIS related to the fueling problem above? I know in some applications, the PCM uses the presence of oil pressure to restart the fuel pump (my diesel suburban is this way, and I think the older TBI 350s were this way).
3. Dipstick calibration: I'm running a Canton Racing 8 quart oil pan with a Canton dipstick. How do I calibrate it? 7 quarts puts me right in band on the dipstick, without cycling oil through the engine. Is that close enough, do you think? Is THIS related to my oil pressure problem above?
4. Lastly, temperature: my temp gauge didn't appear to move after 15 minutes of running the engine. I know there are two temperature senders, one in the head and one in the water pump. One is used (the one in the head) for the temperature gauge on the dash. One is used for the PCM (in the water pump). I guess this one I just need to check the sensor out; I know there's a resistance reading I can do for that one.
I know it's a lot; thanks so much for any suggestions! Especially for the fueling issue; that's the biggest question I have, and the one I'm not sure how to address.
Well, the LT1 is in, and I fired it for the first time last night. It's a MEAN sounding son of a gun without an exhaust system!!!!
http://s350.wordpress.com
I've got a couple of issues I was hoping you can help me with. I've been through the books and the Google, and haven't found anything yet. Maybe you guys know something.
First, some basics about the install, so you don't have to go read the whole thread. It's a 96 S10. I replaced the fuel pump about 6 months before the truck came down for the engine swap, and it ran great on the V6. It's a 95 LT1, backed by a T56. Trick Flow top end (heads, cam, 1.6RR, etc), aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. New optispark, waterpump. Current Performance Wiring harness, running both the original V6 PCM and an LT1 PCM. I have the V6 radiator in there, with a pair of pusher-type Flex-a-lite fans mounted in place of the AC condensor. It's got a 180F thermostat now, but the fans are set for a 160 Tstat, and I'll be switching it soon, as well as adding an oil cooler. It is intended to be emissions legal.
1. Fuel pressure: the pump primes just fine. I've got the aeromotive set to give about 58 lbs on prime, works great. Pressure drops to 20lbs after about 10 seconds after the priming stops. The engine starts after about 1 second when I turn the key, but you can watch the fuel pressure go to zero while the engine is running, and then it stops. I pulled the fuel pump relay and shorted the power contacts, started the engine up and it ran like a champ. Strong, non-hesitating, LOTS of noise! I went through all my initial start up checks, and it seems to run great. Of course, as soon as I pull the jumper lead, the engine dies since the fuel pump stops running. SO--the pump primes when you turn the key to on; what tells it to start running AGAIN after the engine starts?
2. Oil pressure: when priming the engine with oil on the starter (coil disconnected), my oil pressure gauge pegged high. Once the engine started, it stayed high. Does this mean my oil pressure sender is bad? Is THIS related to the fueling problem above? I know in some applications, the PCM uses the presence of oil pressure to restart the fuel pump (my diesel suburban is this way, and I think the older TBI 350s were this way).
3. Dipstick calibration: I'm running a Canton Racing 8 quart oil pan with a Canton dipstick. How do I calibrate it? 7 quarts puts me right in band on the dipstick, without cycling oil through the engine. Is that close enough, do you think? Is THIS related to my oil pressure problem above?
4. Lastly, temperature: my temp gauge didn't appear to move after 15 minutes of running the engine. I know there are two temperature senders, one in the head and one in the water pump. One is used (the one in the head) for the temperature gauge on the dash. One is used for the PCM (in the water pump). I guess this one I just need to check the sensor out; I know there's a resistance reading I can do for that one.
I know it's a lot; thanks so much for any suggestions! Especially for the fueling issue; that's the biggest question I have, and the one I'm not sure how to address.
05-14-2011, 11:59 AM
#43
TECH Veteran
1. Here is the stock f-body relay control:
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg
As long as the PCM sees pulses from the opti, it should continue to be energized after startup.
2. On a stock 4th gen f-body, if the oil pressure pegs when you turn the key on, the lead to the pressure sensor is not making contact (open circuit). Not sure what your gauge configuration is. The stock f-body does not use oil pressure to control any fuel pump power.
4. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg
As long as the PCM sees pulses from the opti, it should continue to be energized after startup.
2. On a stock 4th gen f-body, if the oil pressure pegs when you turn the key on, the lead to the pressure sensor is not making contact (open circuit). Not sure what your gauge configuration is. The stock f-body does not use oil pressure to control any fuel pump power.
4. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect
05-14-2011, 08:44 PM
#45
TECH Veteran
05-15-2011, 11:49 AM
#48
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think it's the VATS. I should have mentioned this: Jared at CPW did a tune on the PCM as part of the wiring harness package; he gave a baseline for the top end kit, as well as convert it to manual transmission, without VATS.
SHBOX, or anyone, which signal from the OPTI to the PCM is monitored in order for the PCM to turn on the fuel pump relay? Also, what kind of signal is it? DC, pulse, etc?
I'll be calling CPW on Monday to ask a few things, but if I can answer this on my own, at least I can go check the signals before hand.
SHBOX, or anyone, which signal from the OPTI to the PCM is monitored in order for the PCM to turn on the fuel pump relay? Also, what kind of signal is it? DC, pulse, etc?
I'll be calling CPW on Monday to ask a few things, but if I can answer this on my own, at least I can go check the signals before hand.
05-15-2011, 04:29 PM
#49
TECH Veteran
I don't think it's the VATS. I should have mentioned this: Jared at CPW did a tune on the PCM as part of the wiring harness package; he gave a baseline for the top end kit, as well as convert it to manual transmission, without VATS.
SHBOX, or anyone, which signal from the OPTI to the PCM is monitored in order for the PCM to turn on the fuel pump relay? Also, what kind of signal is it? DC, pulse, etc?
I'll be calling CPW on Monday to ask a few things, but if I can answer this on my own, at least I can go check the signals before hand.
SHBOX, or anyone, which signal from the OPTI to the PCM is monitored in order for the PCM to turn on the fuel pump relay? Also, what kind of signal is it? DC, pulse, etc?
I'll be calling CPW on Monday to ask a few things, but if I can answer this on my own, at least I can go check the signals before hand.
Just monitor the fuel pump relay control wire with a meter and see what it is doing after the engine initially fires up.
05-15-2011, 06:08 PM
#50
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I checked the ECT in the head, and it reads 75 ohms, which would indicate pegged high. Strangely, the gauge indicates pegged low. I grounded the wire from the sensor, and the gauge deflected all the way high, so I know the connection is good. So, if all the wiring is good from the sensor back to the gauge, but the gauge still doesn't indicate what my Fluke says the sensor is reading, what's the deal?
Did some more cleanup, and will probably fire the engine again tomorrow evening after work. I still need to do an oil change after the initial break in.
I'll also check the distributor resolution signal then, but I think the problem is the interconnect from the PCM to the relay. The diagram says A7 is the Fuel Pump relay control; is that RED connector, pin 7? If so, I have an open from the PCM to the relay; I do have good ground on the other side.
Again, thanks for all the help!
Did some more cleanup, and will probably fire the engine again tomorrow evening after work. I still need to do an oil change after the initial break in.
I'll also check the distributor resolution signal then, but I think the problem is the interconnect from the PCM to the relay. The diagram says A7 is the Fuel Pump relay control; is that RED connector, pin 7? If so, I have an open from the PCM to the relay; I do have good ground on the other side.
Again, thanks for all the help!
05-15-2011, 10:38 PM
#51
TECH Veteran
I checked the ECT in the head, and it reads 75 ohms, which would indicate pegged high. Strangely, the gauge indicates pegged low. I grounded the wire from the sensor, and the gauge deflected all the way high, so I know the connection is good. So, if all the wiring is good from the sensor back to the gauge, but the gauge still doesn't indicate what my Fluke says the sensor is reading, what's the deal?
Did some more cleanup, and will probably fire the engine again tomorrow evening after work. I still need to do an oil change after the initial break in.
I'll also check the distributor resolution signal then, but I think the problem is the interconnect from the PCM to the relay. The diagram says A7 is the Fuel Pump relay control; is that RED connector, pin 7? If so, I have an open from the PCM to the relay; I do have good ground on the other side.
Again, thanks for all the help!
Did some more cleanup, and will probably fire the engine again tomorrow evening after work. I still need to do an oil change after the initial break in.
I'll also check the distributor resolution signal then, but I think the problem is the interconnect from the PCM to the relay. The diagram says A7 is the Fuel Pump relay control; is that RED connector, pin 7? If so, I have an open from the PCM to the relay; I do have good ground on the other side.
Again, thanks for all the help!
Unless your read the sensor when the engine was pretty hot, the sensor reading of 75 ohms does not seem quite right.
05-16-2011, 10:00 AM
#52
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, it was cold iron (and aluminum..hah!). Probably 55-60F. Should have been up around 4K. The sensor is new, bought for an LT1. It's possible I damaged it somehow, but I don't really think so. I may just grab some accessory gauges cheap and check them. Really, if the fans are working, it'll be good enough to get me to the exhaust shop, which means I can drive it around town without getting pulled over every 5 minutes 
More updates as I learn something useful.
More updates as I learn something useful.
05-17-2011, 05:20 PM
#54
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know you guys said that the OPS doesn't play a part on the LT1, but I did find this on LT1swap.com.
http://www.lt1swap.com/95impalalt1.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_1587.jpg
As I said, I'm going to fire it tonight and look at the low res signals from the Opti, but I'll also look at the A7 voltage during prime and during run. Any thougths? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
I haven't heard from CPW yet.
http://www.lt1swap.com/95impalalt1.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_1587.jpg
As I said, I'm going to fire it tonight and look at the low res signals from the Opti, but I'll also look at the A7 voltage during prime and during run. Any thougths? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
I haven't heard from CPW yet.
05-19-2011, 01:33 AM
#55
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, new problem.
With the engine warmed up, I put the truck in gear. I let the clutch out slowly, and it sputters and tries to stall on me. The rear end was jacked up. Mind you, with the truck in gear, the clutch in, I can still spin the back tires by hand, so it's not a trans or driveshaft binding issue. It'll go into any gear I ask it to, but as soon as the clutch comes out, the engine dies. I tried it with the revs up around 2000, I tried it at idle. I can see the wheels twitch, like they're trying to move, but then the engine dies.
I also never got the fans to come on, but I can figure that one out on my own, I hope.
What could I have done wrong on my clutch to cause this?
With the engine warmed up, I put the truck in gear. I let the clutch out slowly, and it sputters and tries to stall on me. The rear end was jacked up. Mind you, with the truck in gear, the clutch in, I can still spin the back tires by hand, so it's not a trans or driveshaft binding issue. It'll go into any gear I ask it to, but as soon as the clutch comes out, the engine dies. I tried it with the revs up around 2000, I tried it at idle. I can see the wheels twitch, like they're trying to move, but then the engine dies.
I also never got the fans to come on, but I can figure that one out on my own, I hope.
What could I have done wrong on my clutch to cause this?
05-19-2011, 06:43 AM
#56
TECH Veteran
I know you guys said that the OPS doesn't play a part on the LT1, but I did find this on LT1swap.com.
http://www.lt1swap.com/95impalalt1.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_1587.jpg
As I said, I'm going to fire it tonight and look at the low res signals from the Opti, but I'll also look at the A7 voltage during prime and during run. Any thougths? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
I haven't heard from CPW yet.
http://www.lt1swap.com/95impalalt1.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_1587.jpg
As I said, I'm going to fire it tonight and look at the low res signals from the Opti, but I'll also look at the A7 voltage during prime and during run. Any thougths? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
I haven't heard from CPW yet.
05-19-2011, 10:38 AM
#57
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Makes sense to me, thanks. I've got the control side of the relay on the switched 12V for now, and I spoke with CPW yesterday. They said they need to pull the tune and see what they did, and they'd get back to me. They didn't call yesterday, but I'll call them again today.
Any thoughts on the clutch/trans issue?
Any thoughts on the clutch/trans issue?
10-06-2011, 02:21 PM
#58
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys, sorry it's been so long without a response. Project is still moving along. The exhaust shop took two months (and too much money), but here's a shot of the fun stuff:
The speedo & gauge cluster was down because I blew a fuse while troubleshooting. I found out why the fans weren't coming on: there are two coolant temp connections on my harness, which is an LSx thing apparently (according to CPW), and I had the wrong one hooked up. BUT ALSO, I broke a ring terminal on the starter during the installation, and assumed it was the battery->starter connection. Well, apparently CPW uses the starter as a +Batt distribution block, because that was actually the Starter->fuses->fans cable. That's now fixed.
I also wired up the cutouts and installed the O2 sensors. All that's left is the fuel pump run signal, the engine temp sensor for the gauge, and the fuel level gauge. Then it's off to a dyno shop.
Temp gauge: I have good connection from the gauge to the pigtail connector; I can deflect the gauge high by grounding it. I can measure the right temperature at the sender pin to the block (3.7K), but for some reason if I plug the pigtail into the connector, I don't get a good reading. Must be something wrong with the connector. I just hate to pull the sender out, because that means I'll be draining coolant down below the heads. Just a pain in the rear, not that big of a deal I guess.
Never got around to the fuel pump run signal; I hotwired the pump long enough to get me to the exhaust shop and then home.
My guess is I never reconnected the fuel level gauge connection; not sure where that's at, but I assume it's near the brake booster where most of the other connections are made to the body harness.
The wife is out of town for two weeks, so I've got a lot more time on my hands to work on it.
Anyone know a good dyno shop in the Seattle area?
The speedo & gauge cluster was down because I blew a fuse while troubleshooting. I found out why the fans weren't coming on: there are two coolant temp connections on my harness, which is an LSx thing apparently (according to CPW), and I had the wrong one hooked up. BUT ALSO, I broke a ring terminal on the starter during the installation, and assumed it was the battery->starter connection. Well, apparently CPW uses the starter as a +Batt distribution block, because that was actually the Starter->fuses->fans cable. That's now fixed.
I also wired up the cutouts and installed the O2 sensors. All that's left is the fuel pump run signal, the engine temp sensor for the gauge, and the fuel level gauge. Then it's off to a dyno shop.
Temp gauge: I have good connection from the gauge to the pigtail connector; I can deflect the gauge high by grounding it. I can measure the right temperature at the sender pin to the block (3.7K), but for some reason if I plug the pigtail into the connector, I don't get a good reading. Must be something wrong with the connector. I just hate to pull the sender out, because that means I'll be draining coolant down below the heads. Just a pain in the rear, not that big of a deal I guess.
Never got around to the fuel pump run signal; I hotwired the pump long enough to get me to the exhaust shop and then home.
My guess is I never reconnected the fuel level gauge connection; not sure where that's at, but I assume it's near the brake booster where most of the other connections are made to the body harness.
The wife is out of town for two weeks, so I've got a lot more time on my hands to work on it.
Anyone know a good dyno shop in the Seattle area?
