Torque arm or coilovers?
so that torque arm is better for a 6speed? Cuz mine is auto, or does it not make a difference? I wouldn't think it makes a difference but I also plan on running true duals later on so that torque arm would be the best?
I'm personally running the Jegster adjustable TA.. Not because I bought it, but I got it for free, so why not. It works great. To answer your question, it doesn't matter if its 6spd or auto, either will work, just some people prefer a certain one. It's all preference and how your setup is
It works pretty well with TD's.
I would definitely do a tunnel mount TA especially since it is a manual. It doesn't matter how much torque is produced, what breaks parts is shock to the driveline and because the stock TA is nothing more than thin stamped steal it can fatigue/break easily especially around the bolt holes where it mounts onto the differential.
I disagree with the tq arm or getting it "dialed in"
What exactly are you dialing in? pinion angle?
Stock tq arm works fine..... I would do the shocks, you have alot more tuning capability with shock setting springs and ride ht than you do with just a tq arm. Sure you need both but If I had to pick one I would do the shocks first...best you can afford
What exactly are you dialing in? pinion angle?
Stock tq arm works fine..... I would do the shocks, you have alot more tuning capability with shock setting springs and ride ht than you do with just a tq arm. Sure you need both but If I had to pick one I would do the shocks first...best you can afford
I would definitely do a tunnel mount TA especially since it is a manual. It doesn't matter how much torque is produced, what breaks parts is shock to the driveline and because the stock TA is nothing more than thin stamped steal it can fatigue/break easily especially around the bolt holes where it mounts onto the differential.
I would like your opinion since you go to the track once ever 2 years
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Verdad Gallardo The thing is those drive components need energy to start the "momentum" process which equates to high energy slamming against a part that is not moving. There is no such thing as loading up the suspension or driveline at the line w/ a manual. It is impossible to eliminate slack between pinion and ring gears therefore the transfer will always be violent before momentum is created. Of course you wouldn't know that since you have to resort to the ***** way out of drag racing with an auto...
The thing is those drive components need energy to start the "momentum" process which equates to high energy slamming against a part that is not moving. There is no such thing as loading up the suspension or driveline at the line w/ a manual. It is impossible to eliminate slack between pinion and ring gears therefore the transfer will always be violent before momentum is created. Of course you wouldn't know that since you have to resort to the ***** way out of drag racing with an auto...
LOL seriously? wow......
The thing is those drive components need energy to start the "momentum" process which equates to high energy slamming against a part that is not moving. There is no such thing as loading up the suspension or driveline at the line w/ a manual. It is impossible to eliminate slack between pinion and ring gears therefore the transfer will always be violent before momentum is created. Of course you wouldn't know that since you have to resort to the ***** way out of drag racing with an auto...
For instance if your driving on the hwy and down shift as low as possible then punch it. The rear end yanks back when you shift then slams the DS forward into the trans when you nail it. Not good.
If you were just drag racing, I dont think this would even be an issue since there no down shifting. On the street it definitly is a prob IMO.
This is one of the main reasons I ditched the Tunnel mount TA. The way the Tunnel mount TA pivots back and forth shocks the tranny so hard. Its to violent and what I beleive was the start to my output shaft breaking.
For instance if your driving on the hwy and down shift as low as possible then punch it. The rear end yanks back when you shift then slams the DS forward into the trans when you nail it. Not good.
If you were just drag racing, I dont think this would even be an issue since there no down shifting. On the street it definitly is a prob IMO.
For instance if your driving on the hwy and down shift as low as possible then punch it. The rear end yanks back when you shift then slams the DS forward into the trans when you nail it. Not good.
If you were just drag racing, I dont think this would even be an issue since there no down shifting. On the street it definitly is a prob IMO.
It is a problem especially for drag racing. The traction involved w/ the transfer of shock to the drive line on a non-moving object is especially hazardous on gears, TA and tail shafts if the TA is connected. It has nothing to do with a "properly" setup suspension as mdacton wants to boast. It has to do with the slack between where torque is generated and the receiving parts of its wrath. Those with autos don't have this problem because (at least when they brag about foot braking) the drive line and suspension parts can simply be loaded, locked, cocked and ready to rock which mostly eliminates any sudden shock or parts slamming into each other. That's why they can get away w/ using a 10-bolt and stock susp. components when running quicker times.
The thing is those drive components need energy to start the "momentum" process which equates to high energy slamming against a part that is not moving. There is no such thing as loading up the suspension or driveline at the line w/ a manual. It is impossible to eliminate slack between pinion and ring gears therefore the transfer will always be violent before momentum is created. Of course you wouldn't know that since you have to resort to the ***** way out of drag racing with an auto...
the ring and pinion slamming against each other? Wow how much backlash do you run? Or would you even know since you dont set up your own.
I know what we can do...lets go by your own personal performance......11.99 once on a low tide full moon in egypt in the middle of december on top of a mountain top with a 1.89 60'.....hmmmmm sounds like you are full of it, internet jockey wanna be. You wish you were half the man I am. Dont be bitter b/c you got a stocking full of coal old bastard
Auto pansies just don't understand. No matter the backlash there is still going to be shock to the drive line. If it wasn't so then people with a manual transmission and bolt-ons would not be breaking gears/carriers or bending/breaking/cracking torque arms. You are posting of things you know nothing about.
100% sure and I tried everything from -4 to +4. I used to carry an angle finder and tools in the car just to try differnt angles. Then I just gave up on the POS. Not to mention it sounded like crap.
It is a problem especially for drag racing. The traction involved w/ the transfer of shock to the drive line on a non-moving object is especially hazardous on gears, TA and tail shafts if the TA is connected. It has nothing to do with a "properly" setup suspension as mdacton wants to boast. It has to do with the slack between where torque is generated and the receiving parts of its wrath. Those with autos don't have this problem because (at least when they brag about foot braking) the drive line and suspension parts can simply be loaded, locked, cocked and ready to rock which mostly eliminates any sudden shock or parts slamming into each other. That's why they can get away w/ using a 10-bolt and stock susp. components when running quicker times.
IMO The Tunnel mount TAs cause way more shock to the driveline then a full length reloacated TA. Only reason I dont think its a big issue on the strip is theres no heavy loads pulling the rear end backwards like downshifting does to the car. Its forward motion for the most part. None the less still alot harder on the car in a M6
Last edited by AChotrod; Dec 26, 2009 at 11:37 AM.
Well I guess I should feel lucky.. Then again mine is somewhat different I think. It doesn't mount to the body with 4 bolts like that one, it actually hugs the tunnel like a glove and it's held on by like 14 bolts total or something, like this: (except the one I have is adjustable) http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...6/P1010064.jpg
I think a full length relocated TA is the best way to go on a M6.