Torque arm or coilovers?
Your is a totally different set up. Its not just the noise Im talking about. Its how the front of the TA mounts to the crossmember. It actually pivots back and forth under hard loads. For instance If you down shift hard it pulls back also pulling back the DS, and if you nail it the TA pivots forward and slams the DS into the Tail shaft of the trans wich also shocks the hell out of the ring and pinion.
I think a full length relocated TA is the best way to go on a M6.
I think a full length relocated TA is the best way to go on a M6.
Oh okay I see what you mean. Now that you mention that, a buddy of mine had a BMR one and it was like that, and I remember it still made noise after adjusting it. So basically, even if you adjust it, it still freely moves/pivots front and back. That's gotta be frustrating
There are sub 9 second LSx cars using tunnel mount TA's with no issues. I don't know off hand if one is more violent than the other. I am fully confident the tunnel mount achieves its intended purpose.
I realize you can, but is it worth spending the extra $40 to get an adjustable TA if you're going to run the tranny mount relocation bracket which already allows you to adjust your pinion angle?
Valkyn, The relocation bracket allows adustment of instant center not Pinion angle.
It worked fine at the track, just not on the street. Like I said when you downshift the force causes the rear end to pull back, wich also causes the TA and DS to pull back do to the pivot style front mount. Once you nail it the rear shoots forward with the DS and TA, wich slams the DS into the tail shaft.
brian I ran a m6 for a long time......and it ran alot faster with stock long block than you do now, but thats besides the point. I know alot more than you do and I say get the shocks first.....thats the bottom line, I am smarter than you so my point is more valid than yours.
brian I ran a m6 for a long time......and it ran alot faster with stock long block than you do now, but thats besides the point. I know alot more than you do and I say get the shocks first.....thats the bottom line, I am smarter than you so my point is more valid than yours.
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I had a stock rear and DS when I had the tunnel mount TA, also had a LS1 DS and it was the same so they were not the issue. All it needs is a 1/8 inch play to do what im trying to describe.
I cant be sure thats what was going on, but it was loud and brutal on the trans and the rear end. Switched back to a full length TA and ALL the problems and noises went away.
I cant be sure thats what was going on, but it was loud and brutal on the trans and the rear end. Switched back to a full length TA and ALL the problems and noises went away.
i have a tunnel mounted TA. After reading all the hate stories last year about them i still decided to buy one. I have had it on the car since summer. I love it. I dont understand why people complain about it. Its not noisy, it doesnt bang, no vibrations. The only little thump sound i get is when im right at lockup speed coasting. But my car did that with the stock TA also.
so i dont get why people hate on it so much. Install error maybe?
so i dont get why people hate on it so much. Install error maybe?
You have an auto, so I cant compair my car to yours. Im just telling you all what happened to me and what fixed it.
BTW my car actually 60fts better with the full length TA, with the rest of the mods being the same. Both work better than the stock TA though. Problem I had with the tunnel mount at the track was it was a very fine line between bogging and spinning. The full length seem alot more consistant.
Again these are just my experiences of having both on the same car with the same mods.
BTW my car actually 60fts better with the full length TA, with the rest of the mods being the same. Both work better than the stock TA though. Problem I had with the tunnel mount at the track was it was a very fine line between bogging and spinning. The full length seem alot more consistant.
Again these are just my experiences of having both on the same car with the same mods.
All this talk is making me want to switch over to a full length TA and relocation.. Too bad its like $450 (with UMIs sale) lol. Oh well.. My tunnel mount is treating me alright. Just needs some more tweaking..
It worked fine at the track, just not on the street. Like I said when you downshift the force causes the rear end to pull back, wich also causes the TA and DS to pull back do to the pivot style front mount. Once you nail it the rear shoots forward with the DS and TA, wich slams the DS into the tail shaft.
The relocation bracket allows adustment of instant center not Pinion angle.
I have been 1.41 on the stock torque arm with a home made crossmember. IMO the best place to tie-in any torque arm is the subrame connectors.
Even the stock torque arm has front to rear movement at the transmission. If you don't have it the rear suspension will be in a bind.
I guess that you are talking about the BMR torque arm relocation? If that is the case, moving the arm up or down at the front mount adjusts pinion angle. To adjust IC on a torque arm car you have to change the torque arm length or rear control arm angle.
I have been 1.41 on the stock torque arm with a home made crossmember. IMO the best place to tie-in any torque arm is the subrame connectors.
I guess that you are talking about the BMR torque arm relocation? If that is the case, moving the arm up or down at the front mount adjusts pinion angle. To adjust IC on a torque arm car you have to change the torque arm length or rear control arm angle.
I have been 1.41 on the stock torque arm with a home made crossmember. IMO the best place to tie-in any torque arm is the subrame connectors.
Just seemed no Matter what I tried the tunnel mount TA was just bad on the street and didnt work any better at the track for me.
I also thought moving the front of the TA would change PA, but was told other wise. I think it was BMR rep that told me that.
oh. I had the the UMI Tunnel Mount TA, and Now the UMI TA relocation kit and UMI full length TA. Pissed me off I spent a **** load on it just to hate is and sell it a couple months down the road.
Keep in mind my car was a DD at the time and a good ride was super important.