More issues with my car...

After quick drives, the radiator is about half way empty, took it in and they said the water pump was bad... quoted $1300.

That sounds RIDICULOUS!

On a super budget, should I go electric?
I know nothing about installation, I need some serious guides and pictures most likely.

 

$1300!!!!| Damn. Thats way outrageous!!! You could go electric if you feel comfortable but honestly since the pump has to come off why not just get a deal on a GM mechanical and call it a day? Also assure there isnt anything else adding to this issue you are experiencing. The electric pump install is fairly straight forward but it all depends on your mechanical ability. And at your level of power do you really need the EWP? Just some things to ponder. If I was running a mild bolt on car I would just stick to a mechanical. They work. Also think about the reliability issue with electric. Yes they cool better, but service life is much much shorter than that of a mechanical pump.

 

its an easy swap you should try it your self. I have a spare lt1 water pump here im pretty sure its good ill give you just pay shipping(if your interested)

I hope this helps



REMOVAL

1. Raise and suitably support vehicle.
2. Electrical connectors from electric engine coolant fans.
3. Electric engine coolant fans.
4. Engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor.
5. Drain engine coolant.
6. Install engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor. Tighten

o Coolant drain hole plug to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.)
o Knock sensor to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)

7. Lower vehicle.
8. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector.
9. Air intake duct from throttle body and Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor.
10. Upper and lower radiator hoses from water pump.
11. Heater hoses from water pump and throttle body.
12. Electrical connector from coolant sensor.
13. Reposition ignition coil and bracket.
14. Air pump and bracket.
15. Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41).
16. Water pump (37).
17. Water pump gaskets (38).
18. Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals (156). Clean

o Water pump gasket surfaces.
o Water pump bolts/screws and stud.

INSTALLATION

1. Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals using Water Pump Driveshaft Assembly O-Ring Seal Installer (156).
2. Water pump gaskets (38).
3. Water pump (37).
4. Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41). Tighten water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41) to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) .
5. Air pump and bracket.
6. Position coil and bracket.
7. Electrical connector to coolant sensor.
8. Heater hoses to water pump and throttle body.
9. Upper and lower radiator hoses to water pump.
10. Air intake duct to throttle body and MAF sensor.
11. IAT sensor electrical connector.
12. Electrical connectors to electric engine coolant fans.
13. Refill cooling system. Inspect for leaks, after running engine to normal operating temperature.

 

if the radiator was 1/2 way empty, where did the other 1/2 of the coolant go? Is easy to do. I have done it 4 times now. May wanna spring for an opti or atleast a cap and rotor since you are taking all of that off. THe above post has good info. Good luck!

 

$1300 silly mechanics

 

Is the weep hole letting coolant out then? If not then I don't see how your water pump is causing your coolant to disappear.

Yeah nothing like charging over a grand for a part that would take a novice not even three hours to replace!

 

Water pump on LT1 is easy, even for a novice. Take a stab at it, you will come out with some bloody knuckles, dirty cloths, and water coolant all over the place, but you will feel good about it after. Saving money, and knowing you can do it yourself makes it all better. Also, may want to get one of the manuals from parts store, will help and give more info and ease to have it right there if you get lost.

 

Haha thanks guys, I'll just stick to a replacement pump then, less to deal with.

I'm not sure where the coolant I'm losing is going, theres no puddles when I park the car, so I'm assuming its leaking out while I'm driving.

There is one hose that has some metal bands in the middle of it that looks to be the main point of leakage.

The shop also did a coolant pressure (or something, can't remember exactly) test so thats how they decided that. Plus I'll need all the heater/upper/lower radiator hoses.

 

Haha thanks guys, I'll just stick to a replacement pump then, less to deal with.

I'm not sure where the coolant I'm losing is going, theres no puddles when I park the car, so I'm assuming its leaking out while I'm driving.

There is one hose that has some metal bands in the middle of it that looks to be the main point of leakage.

The shop also did a coolant pressure (or something, can't remember exactly) test so thats how they decided that. Plus I'll need all the heater/upper/lower radiator hoses.

 

Get new hoses and a new thermostat while you're at it. You said that the hose with metal clamps is the problem? That would be the heater hose, not the most fun one to change but not terrible either. Make sure you have a couple of buckets and some rags handy b/c you will get coolant everywhere.

 

if it is leaking under pressure while driving there would be residue on the car somewhere. I cant believe 1/2 of the coolant was missing. With all that air in the system the car would overheat in a heartbeat. A pressure test would blow coolant and air out of all the leaky areas. I am pretty sure it will not diagnose a bad waterpump, unless said water pump is leaking. If it is leaking it is most likley leaking on the opti, that is usually where the weep hole or seal blow the coolant - in that direction. IMHO the shop is trying to screw you. Check for leaks on your own, is easy to follow all the rubber hoses. Look under the car for a sticky mess. DId you check the oil to make sure it is not full of coolant?

 

Did a water pump on my lil bros 95 z28 along with cap, rotor, plugs, and wires in about 4.5 hours (with stock manifolds). It was my first time doing it on an lt1 and i thought it went pretty darn smoothly. Just make sure you take your time and invest in a Chilton or Haynes service manual it definitely makes life much easier.

 

Car already has a pretty new thermostat (160) and they said the waterpump was leaking, I've been under the car and theres not really that much splash...just a lot on a few of the lines.

Either way, I'll get under it again later on and try to do some more diagnosis.

 

Like everyone else said take a stab at it yourself or offer a person off here thats in your area a coulple hundred bucks too do it. Heck for a little bit if you bought me a plane 2 way plane ticket I would almost come out there and do it just to get out of town! lol

 

I just did the WP, opti, plugs, and wires install myself not too long ago. I had no clue what I was doing when I started, but I did it without too much trouble. The Haynes service manual had some good info. in it too. Replacing hoses and clamps is a good idea also.

Just be ready to get covered in coolant!!

 

Well the water pump was definitely leaking, right at the shaft/crank thing.

After about 5 hours of newbie mistakes its finally all in and ready to go.

I saw no immediate leaks, but I haven't changed all the heater hoses yet (couldn't find any for pickup today).

We'll see tomorrow how this new one holds up, thanks for the info and diagrams guys, really helped!

 

I would do it yourself. Invest in some tools you will need in the future. I remember when mine went out. Took it to a local shop, when I got it back I started it and coolent was STILL leaking out of the water pump! WTF! Second time around they got it right. Also Beware of the cheepy water pumps. I would buy new AC delco. My friend got one once and installed, the next day, something was wrong, he revved it, and BOOM! That was when they had a fan on the water pump I think, anyways the faulty water pump cause the fan to tear everything up, even the hood. The parts guy had nothing to say but some rebuilt ones were not greased properly!

Man, your quick! I also use liquid teflon on the bolts so they don't rust and the intake bolts too, for future reference......

 

i have an electric meziere for sale if you are interested. very little run time on it. let me know if you are interested.

thanks
taner

 

I'll do it for $1250.

 

LOL!. BTC is makin deals!