383 build help?
well i dont plan on haveing to coach them. i just want to know what im really getting and what i need to save for. the shop i talked to said they would bore the engine and put new cam bearings in for $190. then they would clearance the block for the longer stroke for arouned 125. thats all i got prices on so far
Kalebm22, IMO the 5.85 rod is a great in between rod to get the more favorable geometry over the 5.7 and doesn't push the ring pack as high as a 6.0 rod, but you don't have the same availability on pistons that you get with either the 5.7 or the 6.0. I'm not saying you can't find pistons, I'm just saying that the parts selection is a little more limited. I didn't catch if it's a 2- or 4- bolt block, but if it's a 2-bolt you can use these splayed main caps (356-C4102S), they're not too expensive and they're strong. I'd check Ohio Crankshaft out for rods and crank, and Keith Black for pistons. I think my forged rotating assembly came out to just over $1400 complete, balanced with rings, minus damper and flexplate, and I have plans for a SERIOUS nitrous system.
Kalebm22, IMO the 5.85 rod is a great in between rod to get the more favorable geometry over the 5.7 and doesn't push the ring pack as high as a 6.0 rod, but you don't have the same availability on pistons that you get with either the 5.7 or the 6.0. I'm not saying you can't find pistons, I'm just saying that the parts selection is a little more limited. I didn't catch if it's a 2- or 4- bolt block, but if it's a 2-bolt you can use these splayed main caps (356-C4102S), they're not too expensive and they're strong. I'd check Ohio Crankshaft out for rods and crank, and Keith Black for pistons. I think my forged rotating assembly came out to just over $1400 complete, balanced with rings, minus damper and flexplate, and I have plans for a SERIOUS nitrous system.
Have you ever thought about staying with a 355?? What are the reasons for you going to a 383??
I just put a 383 in my car and I'll tell you right now, it's nowhere near as cheap as you think it is. Just because you can get a rotating assembly for 1600 doesn't mean that's all it is going to cost you. Plan on spending at least 5,000 on a good motor.
From your posts, it seems like you are not wanting to spend that much money. If I were you I would stay with a 355. You can reused the stock crank, put some ARP bolts in the stock rods, get a good set of forged pistons, and it would be able to handle just about everything you want. I've known of several people running a LE3 kit on that exact bottom end with anywhere from a 150-300 shot of nitrous.
I just put a 383 in my car and I'll tell you right now, it's nowhere near as cheap as you think it is. Just because you can get a rotating assembly for 1600 doesn't mean that's all it is going to cost you. Plan on spending at least 5,000 on a good motor.
From your posts, it seems like you are not wanting to spend that much money. If I were you I would stay with a 355. You can reused the stock crank, put some ARP bolts in the stock rods, get a good set of forged pistons, and it would be able to handle just about everything you want. I've known of several people running a LE3 kit on that exact bottom end with anywhere from a 150-300 shot of nitrous.
Have you ever thought about staying with a 355?? What are the reasons for you going to a 383??
I just put a 383 in my car and I'll tell you right now, it's nowhere near as cheap as you think it is. Just because you can get a rotating assembly for 1600 doesn't mean that's all it is going to cost you. Plan on spending at least 5,000 on a good motor.
From your posts, it seems like you are not wanting to spend that much money. If I were you I would stay with a 355. You can reused the stock crank, put some ARP bolts in the stock rods, get a good set of forged pistons, and it would be able to handle just about everything you want. I've known of several people running a LE3 kit on that exact bottom end with anywhere from a 150-300 shot of nitrous.
I just put a 383 in my car and I'll tell you right now, it's nowhere near as cheap as you think it is. Just because you can get a rotating assembly for 1600 doesn't mean that's all it is going to cost you. Plan on spending at least 5,000 on a good motor.
From your posts, it seems like you are not wanting to spend that much money. If I were you I would stay with a 355. You can reused the stock crank, put some ARP bolts in the stock rods, get a good set of forged pistons, and it would be able to handle just about everything you want. I've known of several people running a LE3 kit on that exact bottom end with anywhere from a 150-300 shot of nitrous.
Kalebm22, do you know what cc your chambers are? With my setup and a stock chamber my CR is 11.6:1. If my math is correct, every .005 milled off the head is -1cc, then you would have 48cc chambers. If you used the same piston I'm using you'd be over 12:1. Actually, I just did some CR calculations on Keith Black's website and pulled up 12.2:1.
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Verdad Gallardo Kalebm22, do you know what cc your chambers are? With my setup and a stock chamber my CR is 11.6:1. If my math is correct, every .005 milled off the head is -1cc, then you would have 48cc chambers. If you used the same piston I'm using you'd be over 12:1. Actually, I just did some CR calculations on Keith Black's website and pulled up 12.2:1.
well im not exactly sure because when lloyde ports the heads he takes some material out of the combustion chamber around the valves for better flow. so that adds a little back to the chamber. i just know that with these heads and a .026 head gasket he told me my compression ratio would be about 11.2 to 1.
Deshrouding the valves gives a little back to the chamber and reshaping/ blending the chamber does as well, usually you just mill them to get back to either the original chamber size, or go more for a target CR for that given engine . What bore is the gasket used? Have you thought of cc -ing your heads just to check to see what you have?
If thier stock heads milled I belive that is close to 50cc to 52cc. Bought a set of Lloyd elliot heads and they were milled and it end up at like 52cc when he was done for my 383 project. Plan on putting a lot of money in the heads and valve train. Bottom end of mine was like 2500 bucks after a new cap align hone, bore to .030, freeze plugs, 2 cleanings, clearance, and rotating kit. I have spent way more than that on the top end so far and I am still not ready to put it in the car. heads and cam were 1900 for LE2's. Lifters were LS7 kit 230 or so, pushrods about 100, full roller rockers 250, new studs about 40, HD timing set was expensive!, water pump 200, opti 275, neutral ballanced hub and ballancer (don't need to replace but did) 280, NEUTRAL BALLANCED FLEX!!! this is a must for a non-stock crank ballanced to zero. it was 100, ARP head bolts 80, gaskets about 150 to 200 (needed a real thin head gasket). SVO 30lbs injectors 280. Lots of **** to a proper build like I am doing the heater core, radiator, all hoses, Tune, PS pump, and possible a new compressor. LOl I still need some of these but I am over 5k right now. If it blows up I am going to do the same.
If thier stock heads milled I belive that is close to 50cc to 52cc. Bought a set of Lloyd elliot heads and they were milled and it end up at like 52cc when he was done for my 383 project. Plan on putting a lot of money in the heads and valve train. Bottom end of mine was like 2500 bucks after a new cap align hone, bore to .030, freeze plugs, 2 cleanings, clearance, and rotating kit. I have spent way more than that on the top end so far and I am still not ready to put it in the car. heads and cam were 1900 for LE2's. Lifters were LS7 kit 230 or so, pushrods about 100, full roller rockers 250, new studs about 40, HD timing set was expensive!, water pump 200, opti 275, neutral ballanced hub and ballancer (don't need to replace but did) 280, NEUTRAL BALLANCED FLEX!!! this is a must for a non-stock crank ballanced to zero. it was 100, ARP head bolts 80, gaskets about 150 to 200 (needed a real thin head gasket). SVO 30lbs injectors 280. Lots of **** to a proper build like I am doing the heater core, radiator, all hoses, Tune, PS pump, and possible a new compressor. LOl I still need some of these but I am over 5k right now. If it blows up I am going to do the same.
i have a couple questions about my build. will my stock starter turnover a 12 to 1 compression engine? do i need to have the block decked?
i also wondered what oil pump i should be using on this build, i plan on getting a moroso oil pan.
i will be going with a stroker kit from clayton racing, i got arp main bolts and 4 bolt caps.
i also wondered what oil pump i should be using on this build, i plan on getting a moroso oil pan.
i will be going with a stroker kit from clayton racing, i got arp main bolts and 4 bolt caps.
i have a couple questions about my build. will my stock starter turnover a 12 to 1 compression engine? do i need to have the block decked?
i also wondered what oil pump i should be using on this build, i plan on getting a moroso oil pan.
i will be going with a stroker kit from clayton racing, i got arp main bolts and 4 bolt caps.
i also wondered what oil pump i should be using on this build, i plan on getting a moroso oil pan.
i will be going with a stroker kit from clayton racing, i got arp main bolts and 4 bolt caps.
I suggest the Jegs 555-10001 PowerMaster starter.Decking the block is not necessary - it's just another optional build choice. I chose to have my block zero-decked for better quench. Talk with your engine builder.
Oil pump should probably be a standard volume/high pressure pump like the Melling Select 10554 with the higher pressure spring.
The stock starter will turn it over just fine, but upgrading wouldn't hurt either. I suggest the Jegs 555-10001 PowerMaster starter.
Decking the block is not necessary - it's just another optional build choice. I chose to have my block zero-decked for better quench. Talk with your engine builder.
Oil pump should probably be a standard volume/high pressure pump like the Melling Select 10554 with the higher pressure spring.
I suggest the Jegs 555-10001 PowerMaster starter.Decking the block is not necessary - it's just another optional build choice. I chose to have my block zero-decked for better quench. Talk with your engine builder.
Oil pump should probably be a standard volume/high pressure pump like the Melling Select 10554 with the higher pressure spring.
I completely agree with RamAir95. I'm using a mini-starter (more room for the kick out on the side of my oil pan), I went with a surface deck just to clean it up (only .005 off, I wanted to keep a fairly low CR and my quench is great), and I'm using a Melling M155HV (high volume only, not high pressure because of the priority main oiling system).
