i have done a little research on this but today i spun a bearing in the car. (atleast thats what we think so far).
now my question is what parts exactly do i need to build a 383 stroker to hold atleast a 175 shot of nitrous down the road. the cam is also going to be a 236/244* 110lsa .565 lift. and i should be shifting at around 6600 rpms with the le2 heads. i have the top end already so all i need suggestion on is the rotating assembly.

crank shaft? im thinking forged
rods? forged i beams 5.85 maybe?
pistons wiseco -10cc (should make compression 11.5-1)
rod/main bolts?
bearings?
new main caps?

what machining do i need to have done?

 

its hard to say until you pull the motor down. as far as parts, i would recommend buying a complete rotating assembly from one of the site vendors. they will have some great options and it will be cheaper in the long run.

 

well that would be great if the venders made a kit. who would you recomend me to talk to? i plan on replacing everything on the bottom side with much stronger pieces.

 

I recommend going to summit. they have plenty of LT1 rotating assemblies for good prices and many different combinations. since you want to spray it I say FORGE EVERYTHING and get H beams, stay away from I beams... just my .02

 

ok this is the rotating kit that i think i like. B12109030 it is from the summitracing website. it is about $2,000 and i would appreciate it if someone could check it out and let me know if its a good kit and whether they would get it or not and also let me know if there is anything else i will need. also does anyone know how much ill be looking at for machinework costs? thanks!

 

I got my 4340 forged rotating assembly from Competition Products for $1600 and it came with a Howards Tracksmart American made 4340 forged crank 6" h beam rods and Mahle forged flat top -5cc pistons. I had my engine builder install splayed billet 4 bolt main caps so for a nitrous build don't try to cheap out on the bottom end or you will regret it.

 

that kit looks beautiful... 4340 steel, forged, H beams... it's all there. Machine work around here, Alabama, is like around 20-30 dollars a cylinder I believe? bore that bastard .030 over and put that beast together! summit also has a full gasket set part# SLP-260-1650. just keep us updated with pictures and videos!

 

did you get that off there website? also how much did it cost you to get the splayed billit 4 bolt main caps done?

 

ok, as soon as i come up with 2,000 i will start the build. i am also going to have to have it machined for the stroker clearance arnt i? how much does that usually run?

 

lol... you've got me on that one. I am actually working towards the same build up. so let me know when you find out. haha

 

splayed caps run $400-500. Id be prepared to have $900-1200 in machine work.

 

oh wow, i didnt expect that much. i have seen people run the 2 bolt main blocks, will i really need to have to 4 bolt billets?

 

No, you dont have to have them. Many put out great power with the 2 bolt with no issues.

But if your going to buy high dollar parts, why bother to put them in a budget machined block?

if it were to come down to buying an eagle crank instead of the callies so you could afford the splayed conversion a lot of people would say go with the better crank.

 

ok, so do you think i will be ok with a 175 shot if i just put arp main bolts in it?

 

we have two forged, balanced rotating assemblies we like to use for lt engines

$1700 Scat forged crank, Scat H beam rods, and Mahle or CP pistons, ACL race bearings, includes balancing.

$1900 Compstar forged crank, Compstar h beam rods, Mahle or CP pistons, ACL bearings, includes balancing.

or buy it as a complete shortblock
$3200-3400
includes one of the above, with complete machining and block work, billet splayed center caps, arp main studs, fully assembled, painted color of your choice. you can email me or call me and I'd be glad to discuss any options with you.

 

if your going to run a forged bottom end than dont skip out on the mains. Why would you want a 'weak' link in the bottom end?


Going 4 bolt will allow for a much bigger shot than a 175 too. with the parts you are talking about buying you should be good til a 250 shot with nitrous rings in the motor.

 

OP, I told my engine builder which kit I wanted and he ordered my kit from Competition Products then he balanced the rotating assembly with my flywheel and Fluidampr. The cost of the caps and block work was about $2000 because I not only have the billet splayed center caps but I also have a billet front cap, screw in deck plugs, debris screens in all of the drain back holes and pipe plugs in the valley and oil galleries, block bored and honed with torque plates plus all of my rings were gapped in each bore and to each piston.

 

ya i know exactly what you mean and i want to keep the bottom end stout. but $500 is way out of budget here. i did find a set of the inner steel main cap conversions for $70. now can i just have them machine the knew whole and tap the block for the 4 bolt conversion or do i have to have them splayed?

 

you cant just tap the hole and be done. The cap needs to be fitted to the block, drilled, taped. Then bored close to size, then align honed. Splayed just means that the outer bolts are at and angle, these are stronger than straight main caps, because it ties into the outer area by the pan rail that has more meat.

 

i just got my block back and it was a little over 900 for all the work. but it was a four bolt block already