ANOTHER rotating assembly question!
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
ANOTHER rotating assembly question! Ok, back a long time ago when I did my cam swap I was stupid about it and threw off my timing so bad that when I tried to start the car, I bent EVERY intake valve and broke most of my intake pushrods. Every piston was kissed by the intake valves.
I inspected the pistons when I tore it back down and they were scarred, but I didnt see ant cracks or anything in them...I also have pics if anyone wants to see them. I replaced the valves and pushrods, did it right and got it going.
I am still having problems with my low end accelleration. I am sure most of y'all remember me from a while back. I take off in first, it spins for a split second, then bogs like a B**CH, then slowly builds up till around 3500rpms, then it goes.
I spoke with Lloyd Elliott and he said in his opinion it is NOT my head/cam setup. He said I could be losing compression somewhere, I could have a bad MAF, bad tune, etc. It was tuned by Madtuner after the install.
I have the money and am gonna tear the engine down to try and fix this issue the right way.
The original block spun a bearing before I bought the car...they replaced it with a Jasper 355 but couldnt tell me SH*T about it. I called Jasper engines today and got some more info on the block finally. I have called 3 times before with no help at all, but this guy actually got me the info I needed. I kindof knew the bore but it was always a guess with them when they told me...I never knew the brand of the internals. I also had NO IDEA when it was purchased and installed.
It is definately an LT1 350 Small Block bored .040.
He said they have stock replacment rods, and oversized stock replacment pistons...
The crank is a stock crank but it has already been turned. The journal sizes are: Main .040, and Rods .010.
The block was brand new and installed in the car in April of 2008.
Now my question is....in y'alls opinion, I kissed my pistons with my valves and scarred them. Would you want new pistons, and also I dont think I need to turn the crank since April of 2008 is not even 2 years...the current should be fine right?
I inspected the pistons when I tore it back down and they were scarred, but I didnt see ant cracks or anything in them...I also have pics if anyone wants to see them. I replaced the valves and pushrods, did it right and got it going.
I am still having problems with my low end accelleration. I am sure most of y'all remember me from a while back. I take off in first, it spins for a split second, then bogs like a B**CH, then slowly builds up till around 3500rpms, then it goes.
I spoke with Lloyd Elliott and he said in his opinion it is NOT my head/cam setup. He said I could be losing compression somewhere, I could have a bad MAF, bad tune, etc. It was tuned by Madtuner after the install.
I have the money and am gonna tear the engine down to try and fix this issue the right way.
The original block spun a bearing before I bought the car...they replaced it with a Jasper 355 but couldnt tell me SH*T about it. I called Jasper engines today and got some more info on the block finally. I have called 3 times before with no help at all, but this guy actually got me the info I needed. I kindof knew the bore but it was always a guess with them when they told me...I never knew the brand of the internals. I also had NO IDEA when it was purchased and installed.
It is definately an LT1 350 Small Block bored .040.
He said they have stock replacment rods, and oversized stock replacment pistons...
The crank is a stock crank but it has already been turned. The journal sizes are: Main .040, and Rods .010.
The block was brand new and installed in the car in April of 2008.
Now my question is....in y'alls opinion, I kissed my pistons with my valves and scarred them. Would you want new pistons, and also I dont think I need to turn the crank since April of 2008 is not even 2 years...the current should be fine right?
Because hypereutectic SBC .040" pistons are relatively inexpensive, I personally wouldn't chance installing those slugs back in the bores. It only takes one small crack to let everything go.
Zero-decking the block will aid in reducing your quench and bumping your compression, so you'll have to consider that with your SCR. Depending on how far your heads have been milled you may need to have the intake milled too for the bolt holes to line up.
Zero-decking the block will aid in reducing your quench and bumping your compression, so you'll have to consider that with your SCR. Depending on how far your heads have been milled you may need to have the intake milled too for the bolt holes to line up.
