Double Roller Timing Set For 93 LT1
01-31-2010, 03:31 PM
#21
Alright, I actually have not even seen the 95+ timing and opti setup, I was just wondering what it would take to work. It sounds like more than I would want to do. Do you have any suggestions for a single roller set? Like as far as what you know works real well on LTX motors? My gen I 406ci had a gear drive in it so I didn't have to worry too much even with the dual stage setup on it.
Like Rob also mentioned, if you installed an aftermarket cam, the cam snout is already drilled for the longer shaft of the vented optispark, but the cam gear is the problem.
I should also point out that a gear drive setup is out of the question as well as it will drive the knock sensor absolutely crazy.
02-01-2010, 06:44 AM
#26
Off the wall here, but people get brackets for their brakes, and other parts made at local tooling shops....why has no one thought to make an adapter that bolts to the cam sprocket to allow the use of an opti I design? It really wouldn't be that hard if you think about it, bolts to the front of the cam sprocket and sits inside the hole already there with another splined hole for the opti. Am I crazy for thinking there really is a simple solution for this age old problem????
02-01-2010, 08:23 AM
#27
I'd either stick with the stock chain (they seem to be holding up just fine in 7000 rpm applications I've seen them in) or the one I went with (cause I'm chicken!): Cloyes 3157.
From an old post of mine: "If running an EWP, my favorite is the Cloyes 3157, which is the same as the GM LT4 ED minus the WP drive gear, AND it's a tighter fit than the GM ED. It's every bit as strong as the 3145 double roller and guarantees no interference and required grinding on the front of the block. The roller pins are the weak points in these chains and the double roller offers no advantage there."
From an old post of mine: "If running an EWP, my favorite is the Cloyes 3157, which is the same as the GM LT4 ED minus the WP drive gear, AND it's a tighter fit than the GM ED. It's every bit as strong as the 3145 double roller and guarantees no interference and required grinding on the front of the block. The roller pins are the weak points in these chains and the double roller offers no advantage there."
02-01-2010, 11:11 AM
#33
Off the wall here, but people get brackets for their brakes, and other parts made at local tooling shops....why has no one thought to make an adapter that bolts to the cam sprocket to allow the use of an opti I design? It really wouldn't be that hard if you think about it, bolts to the front of the cam sprocket and sits inside the hole already there with another splined hole for the opti. Am I crazy for thinking there really is a simple solution for this age old problem????
02-01-2010, 12:23 PM
#36
In fact there's less need to rev the motor out in each gear since the nitrous moves the torque and power peaks so much lower. A motor putting out 600 hp with nitrous is going to be SO much easier on the entire valvetrain than one doing 600 hp NA.
02-03-2010, 12:12 AM
#37
While I do agree with you bowtie, I'm sticking with a roller, an EWP, and shaft mount rockers on a 383 (not revving the thing to the moon, it doesn't need to), the chain isn't going to see much tension. However, I have already gone with what seems like the only timing chain upgrade for my application (the Lunati timing set), but I'm looking to do my best to protect the all forged 383 that I can from a broken chain, and all the other broken and bent things that follow. I'm also keeping the two 20lb n2o bottles and dual nano bottles that will soon be resident of the car in mind.
02-03-2010, 04:12 PM
#39
I've done what I could, I just wanted to see if I could do more without converting the entire front of the engine to the later model.
BTW, is there a replacement for that plastic drive thing that sits in the place of the traditional distributor? The one that drives your oil pump.
BTW, is there a replacement for that plastic drive thing that sits in the place of the traditional distributor? The one that drives your oil pump.